How much would it cost to build a 79 L48 350, just like the one out of my car?

 

If that is what you want you can't go wrong with this for under $2000. Brand new from GM with warrantee. Don't buy a Jasper even though you live there.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...29-P824C2.aspx

 

if u still have your orriginal, why not just rebuild it?

 

63 mako is correct, you can't build your old motor for that price, plus you get a warrantee4.

 

wow, I would have to add some stuff up to be sure but I think I went throught my 350 for my z-28 pretty good for about a grand.

 

Here is some stuff to add up.
Disassemble short block, sonic check block, clean and magnaflux block, cam bearing remove and replace, Replace freeze plugs, Polish or turn crank, mic, check for thrust issues, Recondition rods, new rod bushings, Remove and install rod bushings, Bore block, torque plate hone, align hone mains, New pistons, rings, cam bearings, rod bearings, rod bolts, main bolts, main bearings, complete gasket set, oil pump, pickup, cam and lifters, timing chain set, clean and magnuflux heads, valve job, seals, new guides, new valve springs, setup installed spring height and check spring pressures, Check and or replace pushrods, check and or replace rockers, mic and measure everything twice, press new pistons onto reconditioned rods, reassemble short block, install heads, head bolts. Check and straighten oil pan flange, timing cover flange, valve cover flanges as needed.
You might say "You don't need to do all that". Maybe, maybe not but with my luck the one shortcut you take will revisit you later. This is a 30 year old motor that has probably not had an easy life. A proper rebuild requires most if not all of the above machine work, labor and parts plus a lot of specialized tools, knowledge and experience most don't have. If you can do all of the above for $1000 your doing pretty good. And no warrantee! If one thing is wrong you might have to do it over.

 

The GMPP 260hp motor is almost the same as your L-48, Summit has it for $1549 plus shipping. For another 400 dollars you can get the 290hp plus 149 for shipping. Either one will be a good replacement for your car. If you re-build your old engine and have to farm out most of the machining and buy all the parts, it would probably cost you more money then a good warranteed crate motor.

 

IF you decide to go with the crate motor , make sure you keep the old L-48 . It'll be worth something some day

 

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/1029046081.html

One FS in Cincinnati area.

 

Warranty = Peace of Mind.....

 

Wow....that's what I'd do!

 

I hear Hyundia has 10 year warranties.....

Since they are so important..

Oh.. the evils of the cosmetic Vetters... just need enough warranty
to drive around and look cool... forget having something that
actually performs as long as you've got the image... til a 200hp Honda Civic pulls up and your girlfriend is in your car.... maybe you can
distract her by having her look for your warranty papers in the
glovebox and she won't notice that you just got smoked
by a pimple faced 17 year old in a clapped out 12 year old 4 banger.

1hp per cubic inch or sell the car.

 

First of all, I would too busy laughing at him to be able to race. When I start the car, there is a puff of blue smoke. Is there any visual indications of damage in the possibility of losing a cylinder, without tearing the engine apart? If I do get the engine, is there any possibility of putting on my old intake and any other reusable parts?

 

Do a compression test, leakdown test. If both are ok could just be valve seals. Inexpensive fix. If you go with the crate replacement everything off the old motor is a direct swap to the new. Pull the old motor, clean up and switch over all the parts you need off the old motor with new plugs, wires, dist. cap intake gasket set. Drop it in and hook it up the way it came apart. Hardest part is dropping the distributor in in the right spot.

 

LMFAO @ ZLX's post...the thing is tho...a 200 hp civic would smoke a stock L-48. My son has a 2008 Civic si (its bone stock) and it goes mid 14's on street tires. I don't think a stock L-48 could even get close to that. I don't mean to disrespect anyones car, but I know my 76-L82 & my 81 both were kinda slow in stock form. If you can upgrade the internals for $400.00 and have a faster car, I'd think you'll be really happy with that choice when its done.

 

Cool guys cruise slowly. Sorry, but could you guys explain a compression test and a leakdown test?

 

I would agree with the others to the point that it would be a lot easier and quicker to go with a crate motor. I would also have a little more peace of mind with a all new engine from a good manufacturer. But as far as "no-worries" because of a warranty? Please!!! I have dealt with more warranty administrators that I care to think about. 99% of them will fight tooth and nail to weasle out of a warranty claim. They crap all over the customer any way they can to get out of it. If you do get anywhere you still have to do all the work your self. Dont even think about getting a labor claim/allowance, forget it, it aint gonna happen. Only good thing is if its a great engine that you never have a problem with. Also I found it to be very fun and rewarding to go through a engine my self and fire it up the first time. That to me has a lot of value to it in its self. So I save a grand and have some fun. I got out my papers and added them up and it was 1,129 for everything. I did compare it to the list posted earlier and I did or had done at the machine shop almost the exact same thing. I did not replace main/rod bolts, recondition the rods, or have the sonic whatever done. I might have got a decent price on parts and machine shop because of my business but I think anybody to could just as well if they seek out all thier "friend of a friend" kind of bargains.. So theres positives/plus's either way I guess.. or you could just replace your valve seals.. Best of luck, keep a vette alive anyway you can..

 

If you decide to build yourself make sure to make a plan and make sure the parts you select are compatible. Surprises are expensive!

 

The reason I started this thread was because my car has a knock. It seems to disappear immediately when I put the car into drive. After I take off, the knock comes back. I am hoping it is the transmission, and not the engine. The transmission just doesn't seem like it used to be.

 

Stock 882 casting/L48 heads flow enough air to support 400hp.
A piston/compression upgrade and a camshaft will get you into
the 330hp to 400hp range depending on your taste... mild street or aggressive.

Doing such with a free flowing exhaust, decent induction and ignition
will transform the car into something you will love.

All at the cost of a basic rebuild... just by doing a little homework.