1980 Brake Bleeding order??
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Omaha Nebraska
1980 Brake Bleeding order??
I am preparing to replace the MC on my 80' this weekend and I wanted to be sure and get the correct bleeding sequence so I don't waste time chasing air around. If anyone knows the exact order it would be greatly appreciated. I know you are supposed to start at the farthest away (back right) caliper but I also know that there are more than one bleeder valve at each caliper. Any help is appreciated!!! 
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: PORT ST LUCIE FLORIDA
start from the inside at the back passenger wheel then the outside bleeder then drivers wheel inside bleeder then outside one then passenger front then driver front but make sure you bench bleed the new master cylinder they make a kit you can buy at any auto supply store it hooks to the master cylinder with adapters that screw into the openings then hoses hang into the fluid you push on the plunger at the back the fluid works threw the master cyl you do that until you see no air in the fluid also get your self a vacuum bleeder you hook it to the bleeders at the wheels it will make the job very easy 
Florida turtle advocate
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,280
Likes: 6
From: Gulfcoast Salvage Englewood, Fla
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Bench bleed the master cylinder before you install it.
Service manual says to start with the left rear. I've been known to start with the right rear since it's furthest from the master cylinder.
LR inner
LR outer
RR inner
RR outer
RF
LF
A power bleeder is worth the cost.
Good luck.
Service manual says to start with the left rear. I've been known to start with the right rear since it's furthest from the master cylinder.
LR inner
LR outer
RR inner
RR outer
RF
LF
A power bleeder is worth the cost.
Good luck.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: penngrove ca
bench bleed the mc 1st. then calipers, starting at rear. You get get a Mightyvac hand unit for about $25 at most NAPA stores. It will come in handy later when you need to troublshoot other vacuum systems.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,224
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From: Clarksville Indiana
thanks, whats homer simpson say......DOOH!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
Since our Corvettes have dual master cylinders, there is no logical reason to bleed the old way, farthest away right rear, then left rear, then right front, and left front. The front and rear are entirely separate systems. Even though the Chassis Service Manual says to do it that way, it was obviously written back in the days when all four wheels were served by the same common hydraulic system. Our dual master cylinder systems are designed so that if one circuit fails, as in leaks all the fluid out, the other system remains intact and will stop the car, albeit not nearly as quickly or in as short a distance.
Now to the good part! There is a good reason to bleed the fronts first. With the fronts done, you have a solid hydraulic system backing up that front piston so the rears are easier to bleed. This assumes you are pumping the brake pedal to bleed. I don't expect anybody to fall in line and do it this way, but I can tell you it works. I was advised by the tech guy at Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes, Inc.
Now to the good part! There is a good reason to bleed the fronts first. With the fronts done, you have a solid hydraulic system backing up that front piston so the rears are easier to bleed. This assumes you are pumping the brake pedal to bleed. I don't expect anybody to fall in line and do it this way, but I can tell you it works. I was advised by the tech guy at Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes, Inc.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
Since our Corvettes have dual master cylinders, there is no logical reason to bleed the old way, farthest away right rear, then left rear, then right front, and left front. The front and rear are entirely separate systems. Even though the Chassis Service Manual says to do it that way, it was obviously written back in the days when all four wheels were served by the same common hydraulic system. Our dual master cylinder systems are designed so that if one circuit fails, as in leaks all the fluid out, the other system remains intact and will stop the car, albeit not nearly as quickly or in as short a distance.
Now to the good part! There is a good reason to bleed the fronts first. With the fronts done, you have a solid hydraulic system backing up that front piston so the rears are easier to bleed. This assumes you are pumping the brake pedal to bleed. I don't expect anybody to fall in line and do it this way, but I can tell you it works. I was advised by the tech guy at Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes, Inc.
Now to the good part! There is a good reason to bleed the fronts first. With the fronts done, you have a solid hydraulic system backing up that front piston so the rears are easier to bleed. This assumes you are pumping the brake pedal to bleed. I don't expect anybody to fall in line and do it this way, but I can tell you it works. I was advised by the tech guy at Corvette Stainless Steel Brakes, Inc.
This is what I have read also.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Omaha Nebraska
Weekend Update
Well sorry it has taken so long to get back but I have been working like a mad man this weeked and I am proud to say I fixed more than I broke!
I was able to bench bleed the MC on Friday afternoon and install it shortly after. I had some help and was able to get the system gravity bled that night with no trouble. I did like suggested above and I was able to bleed the front first saving a lot of effort in the rears. After this I took the car for a short drive and it stops on a dime!!! Nice firm pedal.
I also installed a new lower speedo cable on Friday afternoon and the once dead speedometer jumped back to life.
Saturday afternoon work started back up and after one heck of a long fume filled afternoon and evening (9 hours) I had removed, cleaned and installed the driver door, rear pillar, front pillar and t-top weatherstripping. Needless to say I am not excited about the passenger side and hood.
Overall it was a productive weekend and I wanted to thank everyone for help and suggestions both on this thread and others.
I was able to bench bleed the MC on Friday afternoon and install it shortly after. I had some help and was able to get the system gravity bled that night with no trouble. I did like suggested above and I was able to bleed the front first saving a lot of effort in the rears. After this I took the car for a short drive and it stops on a dime!!! Nice firm pedal.
I also installed a new lower speedo cable on Friday afternoon and the once dead speedometer jumped back to life.
Saturday afternoon work started back up and after one heck of a long fume filled afternoon and evening (9 hours) I had removed, cleaned and installed the driver door, rear pillar, front pillar and t-top weatherstripping. Needless to say I am not excited about the passenger side and hood.
Overall it was a productive weekend and I wanted to thank everyone for help and suggestions both on this thread and others.
