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I've installed a TKO-600 and I'm having problems with the yoke hitting the tunnel on the passenger side. Anybody else have this problem? I'm wondering if I can loosen my motor mounts and tranny mount and try and pry it all over to the driver side a tiny bit to get some clearance.
See pics.
The white mark is actually where the little insulation clip and fiberglass are being gouged just by spinning the driveshaft by hand.
You need to open up your cross member tranny mount holes and move the rear over to clear the tunnel
And watch the fan doesn't hit the shroud. I never had much luck trying to move the tailshaft over, the motormounts tend to keep the motor/transmission in a line. I've loosened the motormounts, slid the tailshaft over a little but when tightening the motormounts it would go right back where it was.
I had this problem in a C2 with a TH-400 GM yoke and a Super T-10. Solution was to pull the yoke out and turn it down a bit in a lathe. End of problem!
did you use the body shim kit that came with the tranny....of all the installs i have helped with , they end up very close but not as close as yours, i bet with a passenger on board it probably gets worse. spicer makes u joint straps that are a lot thinner and may help...check with a driveshaft shop....
The T-56 in my car did the same thing. We cut a small hole in the side of the tunnel and we're going to glass in a small bulge in the tunnel. The area is under the carpet so it won't be noticeable.
That dosen't look like a Kiesler yoke, if they had made the yoke shorter, it would have cleared the whole problem with the TKO is the tail housing is too long (and no need for it to be as long as it is.)
That dosen't look like a Kiesler yoke, if they had made the yoke shorter, it would have cleared the whole problem with the TKO is the tail housing is too long (and no need for it to be as long as it is.)
You need to open up your cross member tranny mount holes and move the rear over to clear the tunnel
, but first just loosen the trannie mount bolts and use a pry bar to see if it will move over. I was able to fix my 78' this way after the TKO install.
That's a pretty stout looking yoke. When your *large* buddies going riding with you it's going to really clearance itself!
Either body has to go up, trans down, yoke forward or you open up some holes in tunnel like they said. You already have small head bolts. Is it the bolt or yoke straps hitting?
My yoke is different than that one, but the bolt heads were hitting the tunnel. Pushing the car in and out of the garage a few times loosened the bolts. When you are installing something where it wasn't designed to fit you have to be willing to make some adjustments.
That's a pretty stout looking yoke. When your *large* buddies going riding with you it's going to really clearance itself!
Either body has to go up, trans down, yoke forward or you open up some holes in tunnel like they said. You already have small head bolts. Is it the bolt or yoke straps hitting?
BTW- are those bolts still loose in the pics??
JIM
I think it's the straps hitting. No, they weren't tightened yet. I'll guess I'll try first just loosening motor mounts, tranny mount, and then trying to push the trans over. Not sure how I'm going to do that though??? I guess I could hold onto the frame with my hands and push the trans with my feet? Will I need to hook my cherry picker back up to the motor and take off some weight or should it move if it's going to? If that doesn't move it over any, I'm not sure what good notching the trans bracket is going to do. Looks like next step would be to break out the grinder. But I'm not sure I can get it in there with the tranny in the way. This isn't much fun.
Put a jack under the rear of the tranny and take the cross bolts and tranny spacer out. Use a drill or grinder to elongate the bolt holes.
If the tranny mount point or spacer is to high you would also have scraping. But yours looks off center
Then put the bolts in loose... pry bar the rear over while tightening the bolts.
Piece of cake compared to my weekend at the race track taking care of 4 cars for three days of racing. Bizzarini with broken third gear. Lola smoked multi clutch required partial engine removal. Brabham F2 car broken rear wheel studs. Punchured slicks. Bad rev limiter on F2. Broken frame spare on Chevron F2. Oil leak Hewland five speed transaxle. Welded oil cooler for IMSA car not ours.
We never missed a race session and burned up @70 gallons of 110 race gas between all the cars and now we get to take them apart for race prep for the next race weekend
I think it's the straps hitting. No, they weren't tightened yet. I'll guess I'll try first just loosening motor mounts, tranny mount, and then trying to push the trans over. Not sure how I'm going to do that though??? I guess I could hold onto the frame with my hands and push the trans with my feet? Will I need to hook my cherry picker back up to the motor and take off some weight or should it move if it's going to? If that doesn't move it over any, I'm not sure what good notching the trans bracket is going to do. Looks like next step would be to break out the grinder. But I'm not sure I can get it in there with the tranny in the way. This isn't much fun.
Be careful prying the transmission tail shaft over. That can put a bind in the z-bar clutch lever. I had to pull the transmission and replace a throw out bearing because the return spring was not strong enough to pull the binding lever fully to the return position. The throwout bearing road the pressure plate fingers and wore out the bearing. Besides that, the parking brake cable will start interfering next. I have not had success with the pry bar approach. The Keisler smaller yoke is the best solution short of cutting the tunnel.
When you guys are talking about the "smaller" yoke do you mean they have a shorter one or a smaller 1310 u-joint? I definitely don't want a smaller u-joint. Specially not after just destroying some almost brand new spicer greasable joints to put in the solid non-greasable 1330's.
Oh....and I don't need to worry about the parking brake cable and pulley. That sucker is LONG gone. Never worked, never could get it work, don't have to inspect it, so why have it?
double oh....I haven't installed the z-bar yet so no worries there.
When I installed the GM T56 Viper tranny, I used a 1310 joke because the bigger hit as well.
Unfortunately, there is no 1310 joke with removable caps available, so I had to hone up the holes a bit for slip fit of the u-joint.
But then again, how often do I remove the tranny ? A bit more work now without removable caps, but still possible.
Prying the whole engine/tranny combo over didn't work at all. It sits where it sits.