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I just cannot get full throttle. When I do it will not fully close. I have shortened the stainles steel sheath the wire and still want pull the throttle wide open and then allow it to close. I pulled the pedal out last night and bent it a little to allow more travel. I haven't got it back in yet but thought I would see if anyone else has had this issue and how you may have resolved it.
Be careful you don't make the Sheath/Cable too short or you will be buying a new one!
What you are describing could be one of two things - you don't have enough pedal travel (bending it is one solution to that) OR you don't have the SHEATH adjustment correct (NOT the length of the inner cable).
To get more travel, you adjust the SHEATH OR the amount of pedal travel.
When I put the Lokar cable/bracket on mine, I also converted to the one piece lever (at the pedal) so I didn't have to deal with the two piece version "twisting". It has been fine since and I get full travel.
Be careful you don't make the Sheath/Cable too short or you will be buying a new one!
Yeadon't I know it. I had it setup just right for the Demon carb. Getting WO throttle no problem. Then I switched to the Mass Flo FI and it was about 1 inch short. Had to order a new cable.
What kind of bracket does the cable go into at the carb?Is it adjustable can that part be moved further back to the firewall giving you more throw?Are your throttle springs (return springs) not tight enough?
What kind of bracket does the cable go into at the carb?Is it adjustable can that part be moved further back to the firewall giving you more throw?Are your throttle springs (return springs) not tight enough?
I have a Locar bracket that mounts to the carb base. It isn't very big so I can't move it back any. I have double springs on the carb that pull the throttle closed just fine. The problem I am having is if I adjsut to get WO throttle it cracks the throttle open about an 1\8". If I adjust it so the throttle will completely close I lose WO throttle.
I bent the pedal the other night and hope to get it back together tonight and re adjust. I may have already screwed up and cut the sheath to short. I know Spectre sells a similar kit at Auto Zone so I may have to run up and pick it up.
I don't understand why you are having such trouble. The Lokar cable and bracket are made for each other and give more adjustment than you need to get wot AND rest comfortably on the idle screw. You can't be adjusting it correctly. As I mentioned previously, adjusting the sheath will alter the travel.
Is your throttle lever the one piece version or two piece?
I don't understand why you are having such trouble. The Lokar cable and bracket are made for each other and give more adjustment than you need to get wot AND rest comfortably on the idle screw. You can't be adjusting it correctly. As I mentioned previously, adjusting the sheath will alter the travel.
Is your throttle lever the one piece version or two piece?
I am sure I am probably doing something wrong! Throttle lever? you are talking the pedal arm? It is one peice.
I am definately all for help on this. I can't figure what I am doing wrong.....
So, I loosened the end attached to the carb about half way(the one with the allen key). I took the throttle cable and measured to about the end where the ball on the carb is roughly and cut it. This will give you about 1/2-1" of adjustment.
I am pretty happy with Lokar so far. Don't even bother with Spectre, it's so cheaply made.
Wade,
I had similar problems too. There are different mounting holes on the carb throttle lever and even with the lowest hole which gives you the most throw I still couldn't open it up all the way. I (and I've seen where others have had to do this too) also bent my pedal back a little to get more throw. Hope that works for you.
Thanks guys. This can't be rocket science!!!! Here is where I am at now. I bent the pedal arm up some and have everything back together. yes you are right that is 18g wire you are seeing:o I think I had the origional line cut to short and now I can't find anyone that carries the wire thin enough. Home Depot and Lowes carry something similar but it is still to fat to go through the sheath. If nothing else I can get the wire adjusted correctly, take it out and find the line somewhere to replace it with.
one important thing is that when the cable is detached, the pedal will fall to the floor. so you have to prop up the pedal before you set the "butterflies closed" position. That's what I did, and I didn't really have any problems.
good luck. oh... and for smaller cables, check a bicycle store. control cables are usually like $2.
Wade,
Do you not have a hole below where your ball end is fixed to the throttle bracket in that picture? My Dominator has 3 or 4 different locations to place the ball end and it'll allow more or less leverage/throw. You need a lower position or need to bend the pedal more.
Wade,
Do you not have a hole below where your ball end is fixed to the throttle bracket in that picture? My Dominator has 3 or 4 different locations to place the ball end and it'll allow more or less leverage/throw. You need a lower position or need to bend the pedal more.
Hmmmm thanks Travis. actually it does have one hole lower. I will try that.
I got a control cable as well. Stole it off of my sons rear brakes!! Oh relax he doesn't use it anymore....... Roght now with the pedal at the upright or throttle closed position I have the cable long enough to reach the ball stud. Now i will move the ball stud down to the lower mounting position. Hopefully that will do it.....
Wade,
Did you ever get it sorted out? Here's a pic of my setup if it helps any. Although I don't have the ball stud in the location I suggested on yours.
Thanks guys. This can't be rocket science!!!! Here is where I am at now. I bent the pedal arm up some and have everything back together. yes you are right that is 18g wire you are seeing:o I think I had the origional line cut to short and now I can't find anyone that carries the wire thin enough. Home Depot and Lowes carry something similar but it is still to fat to go through the sheath. If nothing else I can get the wire adjusted correctly, take it out and find the line somewhere to replace it with.
Now just where do I start adjusting from???
In this picture, the bracket is TOO FAR away from the carb - your cable is at an angle going away from the carb until it goes into the sheath - this definitely needs to be corrected. If you loosen the nut holding the bracket to the carb base, then back out the little allen screw, can you push the bracket closer to the carb? It looks like the slot in the bracket (under the nut) needs to be against the carb mounting stud - in about 3/8 inch. If not, then something needs to be changed. It should come straight out (parallel to the carb) to the bracket/sheath.