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Well after months of research and great info. from this forum I finally placed my parts order for the top end build. Do you foresee any problems (clearance issues.) On my 1975 L-48 stock short block, with auto, and 3.08 gears.
Edel. Performer heads #60909 64cc
ARP-134-3601 Head Bolts
Edel. 9629 Pushrods 7.900"
Sum-G6905 Roller Rocker Set 1.5
Felpro #1094 head gasket .015
Edel. Performer Intake #2101 Non-EGR
Edel.8504 intake manifold bolt kit
Lun-60102LK Voodoo Camshaft kit
ACC-31041 GM Advance Curve kit
Sum-G6600 True Roller Timiing set
Felpro #2802 SBC full gasket set
NGK-7373 Spark Plugs
Misc. tread sealer, RTV gasket maker, plugs, thermostat etc.
Don't order the pushrods yet. Order a pushrod length checker and make sure you determine the exact length you will need with the checker. then get the pushrods. Anytime you change heads, cam, lifters, rockers you should definetely check this first. Correct valvetrain geometry will assure you of a much more durable build with minimal side loading of the valve.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Intake/head/cam combo is sound. Assuming the short block is in good shape and proper assembly, I'd think you ought to be well pleased with the improvement over the L48 spec. Keeping the original carb?
Don't order the pushrods yet. Order a pushrod length checker and make sure you determine the exact length you will need with the checker. then get the pushrods. Anytime you change heads, cam, lifters, rockers you should definetely check this first. Correct valvetrain geometry will assure you of a much more durable build with minimal side loading of the valve.
Make sure the .015 head gasket will work I know when I did mine a .028 was the thinnest I could find that was made for aluminum heads. Just check GOOD LUCK!
Another variable that potentally could contribute to a wiped cam lobe and increased valvetrain wear. The HP gain in this build wouldn't warrant 1.6 rockers in my opinion.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
While were at it, lets suggest that the OP could have gone with a roller cam, some AFR's, a 750 Race Demon on a Victor Jr. an E-curve MSD dizzy, a 100 shot, and...
Thing is, there will always be untapped performance potential left on the table, from bigger this or more that; something I would assume the OP understood when choosing these current specs. If more is what he wants then the sky's the limit, but a sound build isn't always about max output.
Just one person suggested 1.6 lifters and we all know how that is bad for the valve guides. so if he wants that extra lift get it in the cam... right?? anyway, imho..... also go a roller cam, I chewed up my first build at 800 miles from a flat tappet cam. the oils just dont have the zinc, led and??? in them anymore... I read a engine re-builders mag that the machine shop gave me and it was talking about all the flat cams happing, and that it is due to the oils. and yes i know about putting in additives... but who wants to do that all the time when you can fix it with a roller cam?
Thanks for the replies. I'm reusing the Q-Jet. Works great right now. Reworking distributor, and hoping to wake this engine up to make it more fun on the street. Next will be a new short block, and some of the above parts. I will measure the pushrods. Thanks for the advice.
Does anyone see any valve to piston clearance issues with these 64cc chambered heads and the .015 gasket. ( stock pistons & deck) I will be measuring the deck for proper quench.
Does anyone see any valve to piston clearance issues with these 64cc chambered heads and the .015 gasket. ( stock pistons & deck) I will be measuring the deck for proper quench.
No need to even check it. It is a non issue with your build.
Just one person suggested 1.6 lifters and we all know how that is bad for the valve guides. so if he wants that extra lift get it in the cam... right?? anyway, imho..... also go a roller cam, I chewed up my first build at 800 miles from a flat tappet cam. the oils just dont have the zinc, led and??? in them anymore... I read a engine re-builders mag that the machine shop gave me and it was talking about all the flat cams happing, and that it is due to the oils. and yes i know about putting in additives... but who wants to do that all the time when you can fix it with a roller cam?
Paul, are you saying that if given the opportunity to remove 1.5 roller tipped rockers and replace those with 1.6 fuller roller rockers that that would be a bad idea??? Let's say the cylinder heads are AFR 180 Eliminator Street Heads and the cam is a XE262H.
Also, if you use the right oil with the correct amount of ZDP, like Redline, then there is no need for additives. Yes, you will pay more for the oil but there are oils out there that adequately provide enough Zinc and Phosphate for flat tappet cams for proper lubrication.
Last edited by Vette79C3; Mar 13, 2009 at 10:02 AM.
ok.. heres the scoop... My first build I had a RPM flat tappet, 800 miles on rotilla... cool... Changed to mobile 1, 200 miles later lobes are gone.
Yes I know now that there are special oils with zinc and so forth but they are just that, specialty oils. All new cars built today use Roller cams for this reason. So yes I would NEVER build an engine again not using a roller cam. 5-8K$ lesson learned. As far as the roller rockers, yes a full roller rocker is obviously better than a roller tip, but we are also talking about geometry and how it affects valve guides and longevity of the engine, and 1.5 are the way to go... With full roller rocker. IMHO.
There have been millions of engines built by the car manufacturers with 1.6, & 1.7 ratio rockers.
There is no reason to fear a 1.6 rocker.
These are engines originally designed to run 1.6 or 1.7 ratios, most with roller cams. The ones that were originally designed to run 1.6 or 1.7 ratios and flat tappet had a much slower ramp rate than modern cams and more ZDDP in the oils. With a aftermarket flat tappet cam and the known problems with fast ramp rates and modern oils I wouldn't do this. I know the difference don't seem like much but a valve opens and closes 50 times a second @ 6000 RPM. The change in lift and additional pressures put on the lobe due to that change, opening the spring farther resulting in more open spring pressure on the lobe, additional pressure to the internals of the lifter and less than ideal valvetrain geometry all have to be multiplied by 50 times a second. Not a good choice. Better option is select a cam that is designed to open the valve farther but this can't be done without increasing the ramp rate or advertised duration. To safely increase the ramp rate (lift vs duration)at a certain point a roller cam becomes your safest and best option. If you don't want to drop the extra $ to go this route give up some lift and live with the lower power numbers.