Rear shifts left/right when accelerating/decelerating?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Overland Park Kansas
Rear shifts left/right when accelerating/decelerating?
Sorry if this is an oft asked question, but I have an odd thing going on. When I go from no gas to a lot of gas (not WOT, just accelerating), I can feel the rear of the car shift left (or the front right, hard to tell), and I have to correct it with the wheel. When I let off the gas, the exact opposite movement happens. I'm trying to figure out what would cause this but I'm really clueless. I thought maybe it was the play in my steering but it doesn't seem like that's right.
Is this a common thing with a known solution or am I just crazy?
-Josh
Edit; Pictures posted below
Is this a common thing with a known solution or am I just crazy?
-Josh
Edit; Pictures posted below
Last edited by neuroclast; Mar 16, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Overland Park Kansas
Well I don't know where the shims are, but I just got under the car and took some pics. Found something weird on the drivers side of the diff too.
Left side trailing arm:
Right side trailing arm:
And the thing that really worrys me on the drivers side of the diff:
Looks like the clamps holding the ujoint in are eating into the drivers side of the diff housing?!?
So it looks like the TA bushings are toast, how do you replace those? And what's the deal with the diff? It's not doing that on the right side...
Left side trailing arm:
Right side trailing arm:
And the thing that really worrys me on the drivers side of the diff:
Looks like the clamps holding the ujoint in are eating into the drivers side of the diff housing?!?
So it looks like the TA bushings are toast, how do you replace those? And what's the deal with the diff? It's not doing that on the right side...
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
T-arm bushings are the primary culprit of rear "crabbing", but really all your suspension bushings are likely shot and are contributing to a sloppy suspension.
My car has done the same since I bought it. Coincidentally enough I just ordered a full Energy Suspension suspension bushing set as well as body mounts. I'll be sure to post up my results.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
So you have a couple of problems: The TA bushings are toast and the yoke on that one side may be toasted too.
The TA's can be a PITA to do, or sometimes not. Do a search in here and you will find multiple threads on them. With luck all you have to do is jack the thing up and start unbolting stuff and they will come out. If the TA pivot bolts are rust welded to the sleeves in the ta bushing it takes patience and a sawzall to get them out. Deal with that part and then lets take a look at the differential.
The TA's can be a PITA to do, or sometimes not. Do a search in here and you will find multiple threads on them. With luck all you have to do is jack the thing up and start unbolting stuff and they will come out. If the TA pivot bolts are rust welded to the sleeves in the ta bushing it takes patience and a sawzall to get them out. Deal with that part and then lets take a look at the differential.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
From: Overland Park Kansas
So you have a couple of problems: The TA bushings are toast and the yoke on that one side may be toasted too.
The TA's can be a PITA to do, or sometimes not. Do a search in here and you will find multiple threads on them. With luck all you have to do is jack the thing up and start unbolting stuff and they will come out. If the TA pivot bolts are rust welded to the sleeves in the ta bushing it takes patience and a sawzall to get them out. Deal with that part and then lets take a look at the differential.
The TA's can be a PITA to do, or sometimes not. Do a search in here and you will find multiple threads on them. With luck all you have to do is jack the thing up and start unbolting stuff and they will come out. If the TA pivot bolts are rust welded to the sleeves in the ta bushing it takes patience and a sawzall to get them out. Deal with that part and then lets take a look at the differential.
Edit: also is this the right part to buy to replace the TA bushings: http://www.vbandp.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=41043
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Those bushing are completely shot. I would not drive that car. See those two rusted up flaps on either side of the arm right smack in the middle of your first pic? Those are the shims.
And the thing that really worrys me on the drivers side of the diff:
Looks like the clamps holding the ujoint in are eating into the drivers side of the diff housing?!?
Looks like the clamps holding the ujoint in are eating into the drivers side of the diff housing?!?
Last edited by wcsinx; Mar 16, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
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Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
I can feel the crabbing in mine too, but my bushings aren't puking out like yours! When you get everything out of there, you'll be able to tell very quickly if the yokes have excessive play. I can almost promise you that yours will. It doesn't look like you've damaged the pumpkin significantly (yet), but I'd stop driving it until you get everything fixed.
Edit: also is this the right part to buy to replace the TA bushings: http://www.vbandp.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=41043
Then I also ordered a T-arm mount and shim kit from Ecklers for another $40.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 587
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From: Overland Park Kansas
Ok I'm ordering the stuff to replace the bushings. What about the yokes? What do I need to do about that? The bad part about this is while I know a good bit about engines/mechanic stuff in general, I know nothing about the rear suspension or diff/etc.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
I can't tell you much on that as I hadn't planned on replacing mine. I'm sure someone will chime in though. Vansteel has remans for $90 with hardened ends. I've been told those are the ones to go for.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,156
Likes: 3,965
From: Connecticut, USA
The bushings are gone as you know,the side yoke appears to be hitting the housing so you better get the rear suspension out and check it. If the yokes are hitting you're going to need more then new yokes to correct it. Lonestar makes the yokes pretty much all are selling, they have hardened tips. They need to be checked before you install them as well.
Look up my threads with pictures or PM and I'll get you the link.
Look up my threads with pictures or PM and I'll get you the link.
