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3\8 dimple rods instead than 7\16: a problem?

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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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Default 3\8 dimple rods instead than 7\16: a problem?

Today I have removed the oil pan and as I suspected , I found there on my 69 427 the connecting rods to be 3\8 dimple rods .

this seems to be the weakest point of my engine...-L88 cam , steel crank, mech lifters, 4 bolts mains, TRW forged pistons

but how much power can these rods stand with non ARP bolts and nuts? I can possibly fit the ARP later ,but not now for sure.is there a way to check if bolts-nuts are ARP or oem?

with the new GMperformance heads I'm in the 550hp region...I expect to go on the track once per month , but in the remaining time , spirited , fast driving staying far below 6500 rpm. I usually feel good shifting the gears at about 5500rpm and i expect to pull the 4th to 6500 rpm only to get max speed

at the end , should I worry to don't have the stronger 7\16 rods?

is it a good idea to check torque or retorque the nuts at rods?the engine was completed in 2001 and the PO drived the car always in quiet , city drive , never pulling the engine to hi rpm
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by elle88
Today I have removed the oil pan and as I suspected , I found there on my 69 427 the connecting rods to be 3\8 dimple rods .

this seems to be the weakest point of my engine...-L88 cam , steel crank, mech lifters, 4 bolts mains, TRW forged pistons

but how much power can these rods stand with non ARP bolts and nuts? I can possibly fit the ARP later ,but not now for sure.is there a way to check if bolts-nuts are ARP or oem?

with the new GMperformance heads I'm in the 550hp region...I expect to go on the track once per month , but in the remaining time , spirited , fast driving staying far below 6500 rpm. I usually feel good shifting the gears at about 5500rpm and i expect to pull the 4th to 6500 rpm only to get max speed

at the end , should I worry to don't have the stronger 7\16 rods?

is it a good idea to check torque or retorque the nuts at rods?the engine was completed in 2001 and the PO drived the car always in quiet , city drive , never pulling the engine to hi rpm
the 3'8" rod bolts will be fine for what you are doing..good for 6oo hp however you SHOULD change to a good after market bolt......
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
the 3'8" rod bolts will be fine for what you are doing..good for 6oo hp however you SHOULD change to a good after market bolt......
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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The first L88`s used 3/8 rod bolts with a full floating pin that was flash chromed on the small end......Is 8500 RPM in your future? Some of mine got that high and was recorded on a S/W mechanical tattle tail tach
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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Some folks claim the 3/8" rods are stronger since there's not as much metal removed for the bolt hole. Add some ARP rod bolts and you should be good to go. I know guys that have beat hell out of 454's with cast cranks and stock thumb rods/bolts for years without problems.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 11:28 PM
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I'll echo what you're hearing, in that I've run then in a couple of fairly strong 427's w/SPS bolts without issue.

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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 01:20 AM
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Elle88 there you go use the 3/8's rods
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 04:46 AM
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thanks everybody,
I feel better now...

I'll contact the man who made the car and engine and ask him if he remembers which bolts on those rods (if aftermarket or not). But many years has passed and probably he can't remember.
could someone post a link for suitable ARP rod bolts on Summit or Jegs, so I will buy them at first chance?

I'll check also if I have pressed pins or floating asap

as usual, thanks for your valuable help

p.s. the oil pan looks to be the good BB type , with upper shield and that metal encase down around the oil pickup...
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