I am getting ready to rebuild the front end of my '71. Will I need to rent a spring compressor to remove and install the springs, or can I just use the floor jack and a safety chain? About how high off the ground will the front end need to be when removing the springs? Thanks a lot.

 

I used a compressor borrowed from advance to take the old ones out, but the new ones were a lot shorter uncompressed so I just used the jack to put them back. I don't think I had the front end up any higher than 10-12" off the ground, but that was a while ago. If you're not sure I'd just get the compressor. It's a free rental from autozone or advance provided you don't break the thing.

 

Bondoboy,

In my youthful days, I would jack the car up by the A/Arm and insert jack stands under the main frame rail behind the front wheel. I would then loosen the ball joint nuts, both upper and lower and pop them with a hammer. The tension of the spring would usually allow the joint to separate (Kind of like if you were just changing the ball joints only you don’t remove the nut).

If the ball joints popped loose, I would then jack up one side by the A/Arm and remove the lower shaft bolts. Once the bolts are loose, I would then let the jack down and when the jack stand catches the frame the arm would lower to remove the tension off the spring.

When the A/Arm is all the way down, then remove the nut off the lower joint and remove the lower arm. Reverse to install.

I would advise using a spring compressor of good quality, it is not easy getting the jaws in the spring and it’s a PITA, but it is the safer method of the two.

IMHO,

Willcox.

 

i did this over the weekend and had a spring compressor... the compressor would not fit so I did it with the jack instead... EASY!!! just go slow with the jack. now that I have done it I would never use the compressor...

 

Thanks for the help. Willcox, the rebuild kit is coming from you. I like how you have USA kits and specify it as such. There is a difference!

 

I used a jack under the control arm when I redid my front suspension. Nice and easy. I just made sure to be in the front of the car with the jack handle point towards the front in case the spring came flying out. No drama when I did mine though.

 

The stock SB springs are long, but replacement new springs will be shorter and easier to install. I bought the 550# VBP springs. (I have them in my 68 SB - they're way to stiff for me. My 68 SB Vert doesn't weigh very much which makes the stiffness worse.)

Following suggestions from the forum, I used a floor jack to install my springs and this was with pretty much a bare frame.

I put a hockey puck on the floor jack lifting pad and positioned the puck under the area of the lower control arm where the sway bar will later attach too. I then positioned the floor jack parallel and under the frame extentions (the part of the frame in front of the main welded-in frame crossmember.) I wrapped a chain around the jack and frame extentions. At this point the lower control arm was attached to the lower crossmember (the control arm pivot shaft was bolted to the crossmember) and the spring was roughly in place. I then jacked the lower control arm up and started compressing the spring. The spring coil became a little misaligned in the top of the spring tower. With the spring tight, but not too tight, I took a hammer to the top of the spring (I could see it through the hole at the top of the tower) and gave it a whack which caused it to snap into place. Never replaced a spring so easily. It was pretty close to being fun!

 

Yea the compressor is a liability not an asset. Unless there's no engine or front end on the car, and you cannot exert enough pressure on the lower control arm without raising the car up.

 

ky[QUOTE=68/70Vette;1569424267]The stock SB springs are long, but replacement new springs will be shorter and easier to install. I bought the 550# VBP springs. (I have them in my 68 SB - they're way to stiff for me. My 68 SB Vert doesn't weigh very much which makes the stiffness worse.)

I have the 550's and love them!!! it rides much closer to my dads 2005 vett.. With the old springs and JUNK KYB gas-a-just shocks I thought I was in some sort of old 72 Cadalac, not a high performance sports car. Went to the trw rear, 550# front and Bilsten all around and ...... wonderful.....

I am going to sale the KYB's on e-bay, they only have 500-1,000 miles on them. maybe I can get $75+ shipping..

 

Just put mine together last weekend... no motor, no body, just bare frame. didn't have a compresser so I cut a piece of flat stock, drilled a hole in it, put it low in the spring, dropped a 3/8 all thread thru it and the upper shock mount hole and cranked it up! Maybe a little crude, but effective.

 

I like this approach.

I borrowed the compressor from AZ and it was a major #$%& pain. I tried just using the jack, but the stock springs were so long that the jack was lifting the frame off the jack-stands. So I had to use the compressor . . . took many tries to get it just right. I've since installed the 550# springs and they were very easy to install; no compressor required, just used the jack method. If I had only known then what I know now, I would have just replaced the springs the first time. Oh, and of course a used safety chains for insurance.

 

Jack is the way to go. I always felt better running a chain through the spring to seure it just in case it decided to go its own way.

 

I used the spring compressor, but I only used the bottom half & threaded rod. I put a couple of washers on the upper shock mount & compress the spring into the pocket. I found it to be much easier than using both claws.

Jim

 

I got the suspension torn apart last night just using the jack, no problems. Thanks for the help.

 

Well, you here posting so obviously you survived the ordeal intact....I do recommend a safety chain around the lower A arm leg to keep that SOB in line, if/when it slips outta the pocket....

a good friend almost lost his head over one, decades ago.....once warned, twice smart....OK??

 

I used a stainless steel cable tied around the spring for safety. You just have to use some sense and you won't get hurt.

 

just be careful and release pressure SLOWLY.

 

This works much better than using both claws

 

Now you got to get it back in. That is a good time. If you come and hook up the plumbing for by bathroom remodel project I'll install your coils for you. I'll even press in your bushings.

 

Ya' got that right. I use a stranded s/s cable - same difference. A spring under compression that lets go could seriously mame you at the least. I had one "fly out" (had the cable attached) and I think I never moved so fast .