OK, I'm going for it - the rear diff will be removed. I don't know what you guys are getting me into here, but what the heck. :D The right yoke is leaking and the seal is oozing. So it's time. :yesnod: I've got the 2nd T-arm out and the spring removed. The 1/2 shafts and control arms are out. The exhaust is loose, but do I need to totally remove it to get the rear out of the car or will it fit past if I just lower it and go above it with the diff on a rolling floor jack? ~Juliet

 

Just did mine, pretty much nuts and bolts. Since you have come this far in youre disassembly, you might find the job easier if you support the carrier and remove the rear cover/crossmember assembly first. Then you can just remove the front pinion flange support bolt and the carrier just drops out. I found it a little tricky to get the carrier in and out with the cover/crossmember in place because the ring gear wouldn't clear the rear cover without moving the carrier forward, and the carrier wouln't go far enough forward because the stub axle flanges hit against the rear compartment "buckets". Had to sort of turn my carrier on its side to get it in/out. Either way, I would definately reccomend an extra set of hands for the job.


[Modified by ORVette, 10:10 PM 1/28/2002]

 

Here's the best tip I can offer (I've pulled mine 4 times). If it drops, LET IT GO, do NOT try to catch it because it WILL hurt you. I know you're an NCRS freak and you need your numbers, but this one isn't worth it :).

I have small hands, so I usually undo my diff by removing the bolts that are in the top of the crossmember instead of just removing the crossmember itself. I have tried and tried and never have been able to get it to come off. This is the last part in the process.

Are you having Tony rebuild it? The guy he uses does GREAT work, I had mine done in September or so, it's been flawless ever since.

 

i would remove the front carrier and then loosen the cover/x-member piece. then get a rolling jack under the diff,strap the diff to the jack with wire or whatever you think will work,then completely loosen the x-member bolts and have a friend help. you got a hubby right?? one of you on each side and don't get directly underneath. stay out of the bite.
when i did mine a took out the carrier and undid the cover/x-member bolts and then wiggled the diff around,and it finally fell out on my chest! i was prepared and had put some padding on myself,but doing the "worm" with a diff on my chest is not something i will repeat,getting too old. besides as an earlier post describes, it comes out,but won't re-install because there is not enough clearance for the ring gear. so you might as well remove the diff/x-member together,as it will have to re-installed as one unit.
if you can drop your exhaust down a bit you may be able to get the diff out. i've always had my exhaust off on previous occasions. i spent about $400 in parts on my rebuild with $200 labor. unfortunately the front seal is leaking so i get to do the removal thing myself soon. good luck!!

 

I've done mine twice. I found it much easier the second time around since I dropped the diff and rear crossmember in one piece. Put a floor jack under the diff and losen the two crossmember to frame bolts. The crossmember may need a little coaxing to come loose from its mounts so leave the bolts in, but loosened untill you get it free. Then make sure the jack is up tight and remove the bolts. Lower the diff and crossmember as one assembly and further diss-assemble when its out of the car. This method makes it much easier, especially putting it back in. Just raise the assembly into place with the jack and install two crossmember bolts. Some have said that thier crossmember to frame connection was stuck togeather real good. Mine just fell out on its own when the bolts were loosened. Guess I got lucky. Good luck.

 

Glad to hear that. :) But of course it's going to Tony's!

Thanks for the tips guys - please keep them coming. :) Greg (Mr. Muscles) will be around to help me I'm sure. ~Juliet

 

Juliet, since I know you are an NCRS member, I will assume that you have the GM Chassis Service Manual for your car. I followed the procedure exactly as outlined by Mr. Goodwrench and it turned out fine. I had not done this before but the chassis manual was a good place to start.

Some of the points have already been made but I will add my two cents. Put a floor jack under your differential to support the weight. Don't forget that the "sombrero hats" on the crossmember can be worn so that they are now semi-vulcanized to the male part. Once I had everything apart and the cross member still wouldn't come out, I sprayed some WD-40 around the edges and worked a thin screwdriver all the wary around the circumference. A block of wood at the front of the differential is essential to keep the nose from rising up and potentially damaging your floor area. I also found it much easier to have the back half of the exhaust off. It is SOOO much easier to work under there if you can get it off easily.
Gary

 

Juliet,

I did mine by disconnecting the pinion bushing from the frame in front of the center section. I then loosened the two bolts holding the crossmember to the frame - Dont remove them yet!!!

You will almost certainly have to coerce the crossmember to come out - I used a pickle fork between the crossmember and the frame. Spray a little penetrating fluid in from the top where the bushing sits and have at it.

When it breaks loose the bolt will catch it and prevent it from falling. Do the same thing on the other side. When both side are loose you can remove the bolts and lower the centersection/crossmember as a unit. Get some help steadying this as you lower it.

You must have the back half of the exhaust out to do this with any relative ease ( I cant imagine doing it with the exhaust in) also remove the leaf spring and strut mount bracket - the flat area that the bracket mounts to is perfect location for the floor jack. and the spring is 60lbs+ of weight you wont have to fight.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Juliet,
One piece of advice before you pull the diff Eat your Wheaties ! and don`t scratch that new jack G.P. just bought! ..redvetracr

 

I pulled mine in one piece, diff, cover and crossmember. I think this is the easiest way to do it( my hands are to big and can't get into area above the crossmember to get those bolts out.)

 

I would pull it off in one piece. Loosen the bolts on the crossmember but leave enough still in to hold the weight. Remember back them out about 1/2 way only. Loosen the front bolt again leaving some engagement. Take a gear puller or two large chissels and pull the crossmember down. It will be very tight then suddenly let go. This is way the bolts have to be left in. If you use the 2 chissels put them between the frame and crossmember and drive them in with a hammer. They act like a pickle fork and force the crossmebmer down. Once one side is free do it to the other side. Now take a jack, place it under the rear end to take the weight and finish removing the 3 bolts, lower away.
Good luck. I have done this many many times.

 

I too pulled it out in one piece following the advice I had read on the forum. Plan ahead and you will be fine.

 

Juliet,
I removed mine in one piece, crossmember, pumpkin and half shafts. I left my exhaust intact and in place. Placed a floor jack about 1-1/2 below the center of the pumpkin. When I finally pried one side of the crossmember out of the frame, it dropped down on that side. I then raised the floor jack until it touched the center of the pumpkin. After I pried out the other side, it balanced almost perfectly on the floor jack.
Then I slowly lowered the jack, keeping the whole thing balanced by holding one half shaft. I lowered it down on to the exhaust pipes, then got under it and wrestled it 90% and crawled out with it on my chest (I wouldn't recommend that for you or anyone else unless they are a rather large strong individual) A better alternative would be a transmission jack that you could strap the pumpkin on.
The crossmember is a real bugger to get out. I ended up using a splitting wedge driven into the space between the frame and the crossmember, and a 5 lb. maul. My wife thought I was destroying the car, as hard as I was hitting it. It finally popped out.
Chuck Gongloff suggest leaving the crossmember in place and unbolting the pumpkin from up on top of the crossmember. I couldn't get myself in position where I could reach in and remove the bolts, but you have one of those fancy Sears ratchets so it might be easier for you to do. Just remember to keep that sucker well supported. Leaving the half shafts and exhaust on will keep it from dropping to the floor. I figured that the exhaust pipes would be cheaper than a new pumpkin, if it damaged anything by dropping down unexpectedly.
Good Luck!

 

Juliet, where is Tony's located? Is that the one near Cancun Cantina?

Also, a smidgin more advice. If you replace your halfshaft U-joints, and you use the ones with zerks(grease fittings), make sure you install the joints with the zerks facing inboard towards the diff. Sometime before I got my car, someone had put the outside U-joints with zerks facing the spindle. This caused spindle damage from the zerk boss just contacting the end of the spindle. When I rebuilt my wheel bearings, it made it difficult for me to get the castle nuts back on the spindle due to the shrooming effect caused on the threads.

 

The body was off mine when i removed it. Just stood over it and lefted it out. I had it supported on a jack while i had unbolted the mounting hardware. I know this doesn't help but figured i'd throw in my $.02

 

I would wrap a chain around the differential in a X pattern, and the other end around a lamp post, put the car in first and floor it! Comes out easy! :jester :jester :jester :jester :jester :jester :jester :jester

 

Not sure where Cancun Cantina is.... Tony's in Gaithersburg. I take 270 North. Go East on Shady Grove Road. Pass the Metro. Right on 124 and take your first left onto Rickenbacker & another quick left into his drive There's a fast food place on the corner w/ Rte 124 and you can see the Tony's corvette sign on the building set back from the 124 road shops. It used to be a MVA smog station.

About the zerk fittings - I need to replace them with Ujoints as close to original as possible -is no zerk fittings.

I haven't decided whether to leave the unfinished bare metal unfinished (with just some of that oil / parafin coating to prevent rust) or to put the as cast sort of finish on them and take the NCRS point hit for it.... decisions, decisions, decisions.... I'll have to decide before I bring this stuff up to Tony's later this week. :) ~Juliet

 

Ed,
I can't thank you enough for the advise. My wife of 25 years just said she has never seen me laugh so hard. As a last resort ,I may take your advise; though i hope it is not that difficult to remove.
Best Regards,
Eric

 

20 year old thread but I have to agree... that's funny stuff
M

 

All good guidelines given for removal. I do it with crossmember attached. But I will add, , Loosen crossmember bolts to see if it comes loose from frame. (likely it won't fall out) If its stuck, remove bolts one at a time, and replace them with longer bolts, (,,1 1/2" longer..or so,,[[ ​​SECRET TIP= Bolts fron your 'Vice-grips' are correct size and proper threads, and length, to do this. ]] It will give you the needed wiggle room to pry and beat the crossmember loose from the dried up rubber mounts. and plenty of threads to hold it when it drops.) keeping it from harming you when it comes loose. Then flow others advice for lowering it to the floor. ..
.. .. Should go well, with a helper,,