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Race Car won't start :(

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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 08:59 AM
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Default Race Car won't start :(

I haven't raced the '68 for a while but still used to start up the car once a month since racing the last time.. Last time that I had the car running was in January. Haven't been able to start it since.. Yesterday, I changed the plugs and checked for a spark and the spark was good and looked strong on all 8 cylinders.. There is fuel in the tank and fuel pressure looks good.. I really didn't change anything on the car since I had it running last time.. I really don't know what else I can try to make it start?? I got fuel, I got spark.. What else should I look for?
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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Old fuel???timeing....
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:14 AM
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If you are sure you have spark, I would spray some starting fluid in the carb and see if I can get the engine to fire. If so, I would assume your carb is dried out and not getting fuel for some reason. If not, I would assume you are having some kind of spark problem.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 73-84 IMSA Widebody
Old fuel???timeing....
The fuel is from May 2008 (that's when I filled up the fuel cell the last time.. Shouldn't be too old.. Didn't mess with the timing and the distributor is sitting tight..
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by PKguitar
If you are sure you have spark, I would spray some starting fluid in the carb and see if I can get the engine to fire. If so, I would assume your carb is dried out and not getting fuel for some reason. If not, I would assume you are having some kind of spark problem.
I'm pretty sure that the carb isn't dried out as I can see the fuel squirt into the carb when stepping on the gas.. As I said before, the spark seems strong.. (pulled each plug and crank the engine and the spark seemed very strong.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I'm pretty sure that the carb isn't dried out as I can see the fuel squirt into the carb when stepping on the gas.. As I said before, the spark seems strong.. (pulled each plug and crank the engine and the spark seemed very strong.
Hmmmmph. You are sure you have gas, and sure you have spark. The car started and ran fine a month ago, but now after sitting for a month it won't start. I have to admit, I'm feeling stumped.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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Is the cranking speed normal?Throw the battery charger on and give that a try,maybe the spark is on the weak side for your compression ratio.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
The fuel is from May 2008 (that's when I filled up the fuel cell the last time.. Shouldn't be too old.. Didn't mess with the timing and the distributor is sitting tight..
may 2008? I wouldn't use something 3 months old in a vented tank unless you added some kind of gas stabilizer. You loose all the lighter volital hydrocarbons
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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Gasoline just does not last as long as it used to. The pump gas in my car took on a funky smell after only a few months in storage...
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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Dont make sense, changed the plugs and still will not fire. Holes and plugs must be wet with fuel is the most logical reason. I just fired my L88 with poring some gas down the carb and it was running almost before I could get the key back to the run position.

ps, last years gas too.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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I have to use ether every time I start after sitting even a week or so. No choke.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tfi racing
Is the cranking speed normal?Throw the battery charger on and give that a try,maybe the spark is on the weak side for your compression ratio.
battery is fully charged and cranking speed seems normal. The battery always sits on a charger and I actually tried starting it while (in addition to the fully charged battery) I also hooked up jump start cables from my running '92 Vette..
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
may 2008? I wouldn't use something 3 months old in a vented tank unless you added some kind of gas stabilizer. You loose all the lighter volital hydrocarbons
I'll try fresh gasoline and see what will happen.. Maybe I should use the rest of my 112 and 118 octane in my lawn mower

Last edited by GrandSportC3; Mar 25, 2009 at 01:19 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow 72
Gasoline just does not last as long as it used to. The pump gas in my car took on a funky smell after only a few months in storage...
The gas in the car is a mix of 118 octane and 112 octane leaded (as I was running nitrous the last time out). On engine, I usually run 112 octane straight.. (leaded)
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 06:03 PM
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Default Dristributer drive gear?

Years ago, I had the distributer drive roll pin in my 460 ford shear. It would grab enough to rotate the distributer so I had spark. I had fuel too. The timing was off. I'd set the timing cranking it over, but the timing kept moving. It would either crank and crank, or backfire through the carb.

Maybe check the timing, and also see if the rotor rotates smoothly.

That's all I got. Good luck.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 06:40 PM
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If your plugs are dry..... try to put a glass of new gasoline in your carb and crank it!

Race gas from 9 month a go..... is a bit too old, for my opinion!
Any volatile is gone for shure.... and is the gas isn't evaporating in the intake it should be very hard to fire the cold engine.

Just my 2 cents...
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
. Maybe I should use the rest of my 112 and 118 octane in my lawn mower
Dont do that, you will kill it. I put some in one of my riders and burned a hole through one of the pistons because I was too lazy to go buy some gas.....

I had oil everywhere....
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 07:52 PM
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Several start attemps can fuel up the oil and that can kill compression, try fresh oil, I've seen this work with my 5.0

Later Rog.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 01:06 AM
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Pull the plugs and give the cylinders a small shot of oil. Crank it over with teh plugs out to spread the oil around, put the plugs back in and start it.

I'm going to guess you're using, (as I am) 1/16 low tension compression rings. They got a little too much gas and lost the seal with the cylinder wall.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 73BLWN
Years ago, I had the distributer drive roll pin in my 460 ford shear. It would grab enough to rotate the distributer so I had spark. I had fuel too. The timing was off. I'd set the timing cranking it over, but the timing kept moving. It would either crank and crank, or backfire through the carb.

Maybe check the timing, and also see if the rotor rotates smoothly.

That's all I got. Good luck.
I already checked the timing.. Put #1 TDC and checked where the rotor on the ignition was pointing and it was pointing to #1..
I'll try to get some race gas on Saturday and might have a chance to work on the car on Sunday again...
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