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Wow, VB&P hooked me with thier March Madness discount. Just made my third large order from them in 2 weeks. I picked up their 76SBC rack and pinion steering system and cant wait to remove all the OEM steering garbage. Been plaqued with leaks since day one so its time to freshen it up.
I have their "how to video" from a previous order and watched it but are there any issues I may need to know about before I start gutting and installing? Install looks pretty straight forward.
What alignment steps / measurments should I take before I start wrenching?
I also have hooker side pipes/headers so I hope this isn't an issue as far as fitting goes. I'll have to remove the headers to get the steering box and idler arm off but I want to paint and wrap them anyways..
Be sure to fully seat the racks input pinion U-joint fully down onto the pinion shaft. This may require that you clearance your motor mount frame extension so it clears the set screw. I've seen some picture here where this was not sully seated. Dont want this to come off while driving. You can use a 4inch grinder to clearance the frame in an arc to allow free movement of the U-joint while turning.
Use red locktite on all bracket bolts and setscrews.
Install a new lower column bearing so you have ZERO movement of the column. If you have ANY play in this, you will have binding problems. This bearing is cheap and relatively easy to replace.
U-joint set-up for no binding in steering, put the racks pinion mounted U-joint FULLY seated down to the rack and the upper steering column U-joint is up as far up the column as possible, while just floating the support bearing. Then slowly tighten down the support bearing so it does not put any pressure on the shaft and cause a bind. use this method and you should have no binding while turning your wheel from the start.
I just eyeballed my alignment and drove very slowly to the alignment shop ~5 miles away.
Be sure to fully seat the racks input pinion U-joint fully down onto the pinion shaft. This may require that you clearance your motor mount frame extension so it clears the set screw. I've seen some picture here where this was not sully seated. Dont want this to come off while driving. You can use a 4inch grinder to clearance the frame in an arc to allow free movement of the U-joint while turning.
Use red locktite on all bracket bolts and setscrews.
Install a new lower column bearing so you have ZERO movement of the column. If you have ANY play in this, you will have binding problems. This bearing is cheap and relatively easy to replace.
U-joint set-up for no binding in steering, put the racks pinion mounted U-joint FULLY seated down to the rack and the upper steering column U-joint is up as far up the column as possible, while just floating the support bearing. Then slowly tighten down the support bearing so it does not put any pressure on the shaft and cause a bind. use this method and you should have no binding while turning your wheel from the start.
I just eyeballed my alignment and drove very slowly to the alignment shop ~5 miles away.
Have fun. You'll love the new feel.
Thanks for the tips brent, I will print this along with everything else I found and keep it handy at installation.
I called VBP this morning for a tracking number and I guess there is a backorder on this item due to the sale. Should get it late next week now
I just installed VBP R A system on my 81 this past weekend. I had to grind about an 1/8" sweep away from the motor mount frame extension. I also had to omit the 5/8" lock washer from the drivers side hiem joint on the tie rod because of clearance issue with the A-arm(red loctite is a must) Do a dry install (no loctite) first so that if you do have any clearance issues they can be resolved easier with parts removed. ie: grinding the mm frame ext. Call Gary or anyone at VBP and make sure you have the assembly instructions with the ever so valuable [B]torque specs[B]. They will also buy your old steering box and power steering cylinder which = money for more upgrades Now I just wish the machine shop would hurry up with my block. Kinda sucks sitting in the beast in the garage pretending I can feel the steering improvement. Good Luck.
Last edited by thewardclan; Mar 27, 2009 at 09:35 PM.
Thanks again, I definately planned a dry run as the red loctite is no joke. Looking forwards to the part showing up. Until then, I have days worth of other parts to finish installing..
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
Originally Posted by MN-Brent
Be sure to fully seat the racks input pinion U-joint fully down onto the pinion shaft. This may require that you clearance your motor mount frame extension so it clears the set screw. I've seen some picture here where this was not sully seated. Dont want this to come off while driving. You can use a 4inch grinder to clearance the frame in an arc to allow free movement of the U-joint while turning.
Use red locktite on all bracket bolts and setscrews.
Install a new lower column bearing so you have ZERO movement of the column. If you have ANY play in this, you will have binding problems. This bearing is cheap and relatively easy to replace.
U-joint set-up for no binding in steering, put the racks pinion mounted U-joint FULLY seated down to the rack and the upper steering column U-joint is up as far up the column as possible, while just floating the support bearing. Then slowly tighten down the support bearing so it does not put any pressure on the shaft and cause a bind. use this method and you should have no binding while turning your wheel from the start.
I just eyeballed my alignment and drove very slowly to the alignment shop ~5 miles away.
Have fun. You'll love the new feel.
Were did you get the BRG from? I need to replace mine and was wondering who sells them.
I am finishing up with the install of my R&P (home built) and the lower BRG has alot of slack in it.
I got the bearing and plastic adapter from a local corvette shop called Corvette Specialties. You may find yours locally as well from a GM dealer or Corvette specialist.