1970 lt1
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,771
Likes: 694
From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
Is this the engine you bought? It says it's a 73? I'm so confused! 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-p...lt1-motor.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-p...lt1-motor.html
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Is this the engine you bought? It says it's a 73? I'm so confused!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-p...lt1-motor.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-p...lt1-motor.html
I hope not.
This thread got rather 'tense'
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...id-please.html
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,771
Likes: 694
From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
Ruh Roh............
I hope not.
This thread got rather 'tense'
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...id-please.html
I hope not.
This thread got rather 'tense'
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...id-please.html
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 317
Likes: 2
From: coral gables miami
I believe 1970 Corvettes only had a 12 month guarantee on the drive train. So a 73 short block engine would not be a replacement engine under warranty. But CE short blocks were also sold over the counter. It would be hard to tell what it is as far as internal components. 73 performance 350`s were only around 250 horsepower at the most....
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,951
Likes: 1
From: Shore NJ
I had a replacement LT1 in mine for years. It was a factory short block that was bought in 1990. I never took it easy on that motor. I did take it apart and had the machine shop take care of all of GMs non balance and out of round cylinders. I kept the rods and pistons and crank. That motor saw many a 7000 rpm shift and never missed a beat. It currently resides in 73jst4fun car. After the install of the motor and 5 speed I put in it saw some good rpms. I agree the rods are not the best but I never hesitated to rpm the motor. If you are afraid of blowing it up why did you get the LT1? 
. The L48 will run to 5500 rpm.
. The L48 will run to 5500 rpm. 
you know the next move....punch it out to 40 over. Guess I'll replace those rods and pistons then...
Last edited by 73jst4fun; Mar 31, 2009 at 09:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Rocklin California
Guess I was confused also!:o But it is still a stong engine and MUCH better than the one that came in the car. 
So I would like to thank everyone for their input, it is greatly appreciated!
So I would like to thank everyone for their input, it is greatly appreciated!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,504
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,771
Likes: 694
From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
Enjoy it!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
If it has the good "pink" rods in it it will take 7000 RPM shifts. They are forged, heat treated, shot peened, magnafluxed and got bad a$$ rod bolts! The best Gen 1 small block rods made. The reason a lot of them got blown up is they were still pulling @ 7000 RPM and got pushed hard.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
I believe 1970 Corvettes only had a 12 month guarantee on the drive train. So a 73 short block engine would not be a replacement engine under warranty. But CE short blocks were also sold over the counter. It would be hard to tell what it is as far as internal components. 73 performance 350`s were only around 250 horsepower at the most....
)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 7,631
Likes: 11
From: Rocklin California
Any LT-1 can be run to high RPMs resulting in catastrophic connecting rod failure and total loss of the motor. There is a good reason why your 70 and my 70 have CE replacment motors in them. I would keep revs on stock motor below 6800RPM for long motor life. When doing rebuild relplace connecting rods with AMERICAN MADE rods such as Crower Sportsman or Manley Sportmaster rods for good life to 7400RPM range. Motor will make around 400HP with good exhaust system on it (headers and good mufflers.)
Sent you a PM so if you are still interested in buying my CE 1973 LT1 it is available again. Did get a call from another out of area person so call soon. I think it will go fast.
Ken
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
WRONG the Pink rods were selected from standard forgings for minimal weight pads, X-rayed for cracks and shot peened to relive stress, like I said, I wouldn't rebuild a LT-1 with production rods as replacements run under $600 for a set of 4130 steel compared tot he 1038 series steel of the stock rods. To put in proper perspective, for those who don't know ASTM specs, that is 10,000lbs of yield stregth in factory steel compared to 40,000 lbs for aftermarket material and the aftermarket stuff has WAY BETTER quality and cross section on the beams. I don't care if you put the best rod bolts in the world in a set of Pink rods, they are still WEAK rods. I have a few sets of Pink rods kicking around in my garage, if anyone wants a set, $50 and they are yours.
"If it has the good "pink" rods in it it will take 7000 RPM shifts. They are forged, heat treated, shot peened, magnafluxed and got bad a$$ rod bolts! The best Gen 1 small block rods made."
I never said there aren't better aftermarket rods. These are the best production Gen 1 rods ever made. I have personally run these for years at the strip and tore the engine down. reconditiond them and reused them and never had a failure. This was in the 70's when selection was limited as was my budget. Used to run 11's with these shifting @ over 7000 RPM. Hundreds of runs between rebuilds. Anything will fail at a certain point but I been doing this for 35 years and got quite a bit of experience.
That said, if I was rebuilding one today as I recently did I upgraded the rods to Callies Compstar 4340 forged H beams with Carr rod bolts.
Last edited by 63mako; Apr 7, 2009 at 12:07 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
The earlier pink rods had some issues as the later Pink rods in the 80's were a much better design. More material around the rod bolts and the made the beam thicker just above the upper rod bearing.
The Scat Procomp rod with 7/16 bolts is a good choice for around 315.00 and there 4340 material.
The Scat Procomp rod with 7/16 bolts is a good choice for around 315.00 and there 4340 material.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
What did I post that was wrong? These are facts.
"If it has the good "pink" rods in it it will take 7000 RPM shifts. They are forged, heat treated, shot peened, magnafluxed and got bad a$$ rod bolts! The best Gen 1 small block rods made."
I never said there aren't better aftermarket rods. These are the best production Gen 1 rods ever made. I have personally run these for years at the strip and tore the engine down. reconditiond them and reused them and never had a failure. This was in the 70's when selection was limited as was my budget. Used to run 11's with these shifting @ over 7000 RPM. Hundreds of runs between rebuilds. Anything will fail at a certain point but I been doing this for 35 years and got quite a bit of experience.
That said, if I was rebuilding one today as I recently did I upgraded the rods to Callies Compstar 4340 forged H beams with Carr rod bolts.
"If it has the good "pink" rods in it it will take 7000 RPM shifts. They are forged, heat treated, shot peened, magnafluxed and got bad a$$ rod bolts! The best Gen 1 small block rods made."
I never said there aren't better aftermarket rods. These are the best production Gen 1 rods ever made. I have personally run these for years at the strip and tore the engine down. reconditiond them and reused them and never had a failure. This was in the 70's when selection was limited as was my budget. Used to run 11's with these shifting @ over 7000 RPM. Hundreds of runs between rebuilds. Anything will fail at a certain point but I been doing this for 35 years and got quite a bit of experience.
That said, if I was rebuilding one today as I recently did I upgraded the rods to Callies Compstar 4340 forged H beams with Carr rod bolts.
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Apr 7, 2009 at 05:49 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 7,631
Likes: 11
From: Rocklin California
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
I was the first one to offer to buy this motor. Hope someone gets a good motor but, based on my lack of response and POOR COMMUNICATION from this person I say buyer BEWARE! $750 is a good deal on a std bore 4 bolt block IF it has good crank in it. Ken, you are truly a FLAKE in my book, never called my phone number, relisted motor without telling me, never bothered to tell me motor was sold, then tried to recontact me today for another offer on your motor. I hope someone gets motor delivered when they pay you, I would only pay cash on delivery based on our communications over this motor. If anyone wants to check, motor was listed several times in C3 for sale section, good luck tot he current purchaser, I think you are going to need it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 7,631
Likes: 11
From: Rocklin California
I was the first one to offer to buy this motor. Hope someone gets a good motor but, based on my lack of response and POOR COMMUNICATION from this person I say buyer BEWARE! $750 is a good deal on a std bore 4 bolt block IF it has good crank in it. Ken, you are truly a FLAKE in my book, never called my phone number, relisted motor without telling me, never bothered to tell me motor was sold, then tried to recontact me today for another offer on your motor. I hope someone gets motor delivered when they pay you, I would only pay cash on delivery based on our communications over this motor. If anyone wants to check, motor was listed several times in C3 for sale section, good luck tot he current purchaser, I think you are going to need it.
And to clear the air, you were not first to make an offer to look at it and possibly buy. You were the third!
