69 435 tri-power tricks?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 12
From: TX
69 435 tri-power tricks?
Im rebuilding the carbs right now. Had to buy new
metering plates for the outboard carbs because the original ones were so pitted. Someone had also put
the screw in the linkage to pre open the carbs and
I know that is bad business. Im sort of a Holley guru
and know the 4150 carbs very well but not the 2300.
Any little tricks a veteran can offer me that will make
these things perform their best would be appreciated.
Thanks
metering plates for the outboard carbs because the original ones were so pitted. Someone had also put
the screw in the linkage to pre open the carbs and
I know that is bad business. Im sort of a Holley guru
and know the 4150 carbs very well but not the 2300.
Any little tricks a veteran can offer me that will make
these things perform their best would be appreciated.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Just how tricky are you looking to get? IMHO, I'd shy away from doing any extensive mods on a tri-power setup, as properly set up they're already pretty good, and would basically follow all of the common, sound tuning practices you would with any vacuum Holley. At the risk of stating the obvious...
1st, and foremost, don't re-engineer the OEM secondary linkage system, but do take time to adjust it precisely and according to the book (this is no place to grow a brain and end up doing a "Bubba")...
2) Verify the power valve is a proper match for your vacuum signal...
3) Install the weakest secondary vacuum pot springs (kit #20-13) you can get away with without bogging, per actual road testing...
4) Remove the fuel bowl inlet filters and install a significantly larger one upstream of the carb...
5) Index the needle & seat (Viton) windows oriented away from any fuel bowl obstruction, as best you can...
6) K&N filter...
If you need any renew kits, I've still got a few, and if you don't have these links...
http://www.holley.com/data/Catalogs/....pdfHere's
http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ded%20View.pdf
Hope that helps a little. If this all sounds routine, good for you (or any other viewers).
TSW
1st, and foremost, don't re-engineer the OEM secondary linkage system, but do take time to adjust it precisely and according to the book (this is no place to grow a brain and end up doing a "Bubba")...
2) Verify the power valve is a proper match for your vacuum signal...
3) Install the weakest secondary vacuum pot springs (kit #20-13) you can get away with without bogging, per actual road testing...
4) Remove the fuel bowl inlet filters and install a significantly larger one upstream of the carb...
5) Index the needle & seat (Viton) windows oriented away from any fuel bowl obstruction, as best you can...
6) K&N filter...
If you need any renew kits, I've still got a few, and if you don't have these links...
http://www.holley.com/data/Catalogs/....pdfHere's
http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ded%20View.pdf
Hope that helps a little. If this all sounds routine, good for you (or any other viewers).
TSW
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Apr 8, 2009 at 02:58 AM.
