Copper header gaskets
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Copper header gaskets
They leak like a seive on my new AFR 190's. What to do?? The gaskets came with a small package of washers in the blister packaging but I have no idea what they were for. I assumed it was for a different application but the gaskets were, on the other hand, for a SBC.
The copper gasket has a raised ridge on one side, a crush zone. I put that ridge facing OUT on both the header gaskets and the collectors as well. Was it supposed to face IN?
The copper gasket has a raised ridge on one side, a crush zone. I put that ridge facing OUT on both the header gaskets and the collectors as well. Was it supposed to face IN?
Instructor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 154
Likes: 3
From: Indiana
My builder told me to stear away from the copper and that they were intended for race applications. He said that IF I use them I should re-torque the head bolts twice after running the engine at temp. I sent the gaskets back and installed felpro.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
My header bolts have not loosened - the engine has only 15-30 minutes run time on it as of now ... still trying to correct power steering leaks from the control valve. On my third one right now.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
They leak like a seive on my new AFR 190's. What to do?? The gaskets came with a small package of washers in the blister packaging but I have no idea what they were for. I assumed it was for a different application but the gaskets were, on the other hand, for a SBC.
The copper gasket has a raised ridge on one side, a crush zone. I put that ridge facing OUT on both the header gaskets and the collectors as well. Was it supposed to face IN?
The copper gasket has a raised ridge on one side, a crush zone. I put that ridge facing OUT on both the header gaskets and the collectors as well. Was it supposed to face IN?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
stay away from the copper header gaskets with the copper ridge....no matter which way you install them there is a good chance you will warp the header flange as the copper ridge does not compress...used on a stock cast iron header they can and will break an ear from the manifold......there are many others to choose from...
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 625
Likes: 49
From: Southern California
stay away from the copper header gaskets with the copper ridge....no matter which way you install them there is a good chance you will warp the header flange as the copper ridge does not compress...used on a stock cast iron header they can and will break an ear from the manifold......there are many others to choose from...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
You should use 5/16 ARP univeral header studs so you dont strip out you nice new aluminum heads. i use the FelPro blue steel exhausts gaskets over and over again.
Copper is for constant tear downs like previously mentioned.
You should also use block 12 point head studs with aluminum heads
Copper head gaskets on the 427 small block because it comes apart several times a year. It finally broke the crank shaft in less than a year anyway.
Copper is for constant tear downs like previously mentioned.
You should also use block 12 point head studs with aluminum heads
Copper head gaskets on the 427 small block because it comes apart several times a year. It finally broke the crank shaft in less than a year anyway.
Last edited by gkull; Apr 9, 2009 at 04:47 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
Now just hold on a minute, think about what you are saying. Your are being totally silly here. The copper we are talking about here is thin dead soft stuff. Those copper ridges are just simple stampings in the thin copper material. They are not some huge copper wire, so they absolutely will compress. Those gaskets are way to thin and soft to cause a much thicker "steel" header flange to warp. That's almost like saying you could file a diamond with a piece of plastic. Ain't gonna happen. Though "you" could of course overtorque the @#$@$% out of the flange in an attempt to get them to seal. That could warp the flanges. And if you ever broke an ear off a cast iron exhaust manifold, you are really over doing things. Its not the gasket itself hurting anything. I admit they are a junk gasket that doesn't work, but its impossible for the gasket to hurt anything, only the nut working the ratchet can do that.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 52
From: Florida
I use the copper header gaskets on AFR 195's leak free, even reused them but kept track of which side was which. No problems at all. I also use copper collector gaskets doubled up with great results. Won't blow out like ordinary ones. Had no luck using dead soft alum. on collectors....half melted them.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
I use the copper header gaskets on AFR 195's leak free, even reused them but kept track of which side was which. No problems at all. I also use copper collector gaskets doubled up with great results. Won't blow out like ordinary ones. Had no luck using dead soft alum. on collectors....half melted them.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 11
best thing is to throw the copper ones away and use the Felpro Performance line blue gaskets. They fit perfect, seal well even on rusted/pitted surfaces and last forever. I have tried the copper version from several vendors on Chevs, Ponitacs, and Mopars and have yet to find a good one.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
best thing is to throw the copper ones away and use the Felpro Performance line blue gaskets. They fit perfect, seal well even on rusted/pitted surfaces and last forever. I have tried the copper version from several vendors on Chevs, Ponitacs, and Mopars and have yet to find a good one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio TX
Some things even if they seem expensive really are not that expensive. When you take into account how many times you will have to replace them with a cheaper brand or type of gasket used for any given surface. But this is for all parts not just gaskets lol. Not saying the most expensive is the best but you do have a much better chance to get a good part. And then there is this forum where you can ask what works and what does not work. 
But then again some I think use the ones that they know will not work for long so they can work more on there car and money and time is no object . lol.
But then again some I think use the ones that they know will not work for long so they can work more on there car and money and time is no object . lol.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Around here, lotsa oval racers use No header gaskets at all. Just a heavy bead of plain red hi-temp RTV around ports ... bolt up headers ... cure o'nite. Laugh if ya want, but it works & lasts real good ... 'though some folks probably wouldn't like the way it looks.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
I've actually done that too, in the past. Don't wanna do it on the Vette thogh.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 111
From: St Louis MO
I haven't had success with copper header gaskets on Hooker Super Comps. The best header gaskets I've found are made by Earl's - the aluminum with the replaceable graphite inserts - they're a bit pricey, but no leaks!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,368
Likes: 787
From: Redondo Beach, California
For a street car where you're not going to be frequently taking the enine part, I don't think it's a good idea to use copper gaskets on an aluminum head. Iron head is OK. Copper and aluminum are dissimblar metals and corrosion tends to start when they're in contact.
