Installing a New Front Clip
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Installing a New Front Clip
I plan on buying a new 1970 front clip from ecklers and installing it, I feel pretty confident in doing it myself, (especially after being quoted 3000 dollars for labor alone to have it done) but I was wondering if anyone had any insight on how difficult and time consuming this job is. Also any tips, information or tuturials on what to expect will be great.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 492
Likes: 3
From: Temecula CA
I know the search function doesn't, but there is good info on the process somewhere in this forum. I did this about a year ago, and it is not that bad. It would only take a competent shop a day or so to do.
The front is bonded to the cowl and firewall, and is bolted to the radiator support and splash shields. Actually, the support bolts through the inner fenders that are, in turn bonded to the front clip. Are you planning on getting new inner fenders, too?
As far as removing the original clip, the tricky part is separating the bonded parts without damaging the bonding strips underneath. Some guys use heat to soften the glue, but I used wide chisels and paint scrapers. I did minimal damage to the bonding strips, and after a quick clean up, they were ready for the new clip.
The tricky part of setting the new clip is getting the hood alignment correct and getting the door gaps right (the new clip is molded long along that edge). The height of the hood is set by the radiator support in the front and by the latches at the rear. I fit my clip with the hood in place, that way I knew how high to set the fenders and how tight to squeeze the new clip to get the gaps right. Assuming your frame is square and the car sits level, also check the height from the top of the wheel arch to the ground.
I slowly trimmed the back edge until I could pull the clip in to get the fender surface aligned the with the door skin. I had NO door gap at this point, but at least the front clip could be placed in the right position everywhere else. After I glued the clip in, I fine-tuned the door gap to get a nice finish. Remember to compensate for primer and paint also.
I used Lord Fusor 127EZ two-part adhesive and it worked great. It has plenty of working time and cures hard but not brittle. It is paintable when you go to detail the wheel wells, too.
I'm no expert, but I really actually had fun doing this job, save for the fiberglass dust! It took me about a week of evenings to fit the new clip. Probably a total of 15 hours, but remember the "While You're At It" Syndrome will be in full effect after you pull that clip off!
Good Luck
Temvette72
The front is bonded to the cowl and firewall, and is bolted to the radiator support and splash shields. Actually, the support bolts through the inner fenders that are, in turn bonded to the front clip. Are you planning on getting new inner fenders, too?
As far as removing the original clip, the tricky part is separating the bonded parts without damaging the bonding strips underneath. Some guys use heat to soften the glue, but I used wide chisels and paint scrapers. I did minimal damage to the bonding strips, and after a quick clean up, they were ready for the new clip.
The tricky part of setting the new clip is getting the hood alignment correct and getting the door gaps right (the new clip is molded long along that edge). The height of the hood is set by the radiator support in the front and by the latches at the rear. I fit my clip with the hood in place, that way I knew how high to set the fenders and how tight to squeeze the new clip to get the gaps right. Assuming your frame is square and the car sits level, also check the height from the top of the wheel arch to the ground.
I slowly trimmed the back edge until I could pull the clip in to get the fender surface aligned the with the door skin. I had NO door gap at this point, but at least the front clip could be placed in the right position everywhere else. After I glued the clip in, I fine-tuned the door gap to get a nice finish. Remember to compensate for primer and paint also.
I used Lord Fusor 127EZ two-part adhesive and it worked great. It has plenty of working time and cures hard but not brittle. It is paintable when you go to detail the wheel wells, too.
I'm no expert, but I really actually had fun doing this job, save for the fiberglass dust! It took me about a week of evenings to fit the new clip. Probably a total of 15 hours, but remember the "While You're At It" Syndrome will be in full effect after you pull that clip off!
Good Luck
Temvette72
