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Dont forget that national chains are also very often locally owned and operated shops. I own 2 Goodyear shops and would put my Hunter equipment and my Techs up against anybody in town. In my area labor rates are 70-90 bucks and hour. If you want to cut down the pain in paying somebody to do something to your car, get the wd-40 out a week early and start getting everything you want ajusted loosened up and movable and the alignment will come in pretty quick and wont hurt so bad.
Dont forget that national chains are also very often locally owned and operated shops. I own 2 Goodyear shops and would put my Hunter equipment and my Techs up against anybody in town. In my area labor rates are 70-90 bucks and hour. If you want to cut down the pain in paying somebody to do something to your car, get the wd-40 out a week early and start getting everything you want ajusted loosened up and movable and the alignment will come in pretty quick and wont hurt so bad.
Again, nothing is frozen up. Not a spec of rust. suspension and steering components are new from the SS shim packs, trailing arms, to ball joint and bolts... I'd gladly go to your shop If you were up here. I figure if the shop owner has an old vette, I'd be given the proper service.
I rebuilt both front and rear from the ground up in the last year. I lowered the front again this spring and will be further lowering the rear soon. So everything is all new but changed geometry slightly.
I put maybe 50-75 miles on the car to give the bushings a chance to set in. The car actually drives pretty good as is, but I get a slight steering wheel shake at highways speeds.
So I need an alignment.
Locally here with Andover Wheel and Frame, a shop that does C3s and lots of old street machines, its $89 for 2 wheel and $149 for 4 wheel. They came recommended by several other Corvette shops. They do the alignments manually though, not with CPU machines.
I had my front done there last year and the alignment was right on where they said it would be and the car drove very smooth. The problem I had was I forgot to bring in my specs, so they set it up according to their book with GM specs, which puts positive camber on the front tires.
I'll be bringing in the specs that I want set-up based on VBP and Van Steel listings. This is VERY important.
These guys are owned by Sears, betweeen the 2 of them they couldn't align my 2002 Camry much less my 69 Corvette. Started out at NTB, after 2 trips went to Sears, they honored the NTB warranty. The tech (MORON) there aligned my 2002 as a 2001 because the build date was 10/2001? FYI the 2002 was a body change year. Their warranty is great, you can take it back and they will try, try, try again. I ended up taking it back to the dealer.
If you are in Dallas/Ft Worth area
I later found these guys - "DFW Frame and Alignment" they are the best I have found in this area for new or old, Vette or otherwise.
Shops that do this 4wheel alignment, on the rear for the shims, do they drop the rear spring bolts in order to free up the trailing arm to play around with or do they leave the spring attached while they are doing this?
This is what I have been doing in order to get the shims close enough to drive to the alignment shop. Just wondering if they do the same.
My thought/concern is regarding the shop altering the setting of the lock nut on the rear spring end bolt, which is determining your preferred ride height.
Shops that do this 4wheel alignment, on the rear for the shims, do they drop the rear spring bolts in order to free up the trailing arm to play around with or do they leave the spring attached while they are doing this?
This is what I have been doing in order to get the shims close enough to drive to the alignment shop. Just wondering if they do the same.
My thought/concern is regarding the shop altering the setting of the lock nut on the rear spring end bolt, which is determining your preferred ride height.
Anyone know this?
Being much to chicken to do my own rear susp rebuild when I bought this car, the guys at the vette shop did it....and aligned it, all new arms/everyting, miss nothing....he did not mess with the spring one bit when aligning the car...the SS shims were fresh of course, so he just wedged the arms back and forth to get the shims in place...bounced the car, then snugged the bolts down slipped the pin on place, and bounced it again to prove the point....been that way for 15 years now...
tire wear for some starting on the 4th rear pair now is fine, car drives fine....