This was what I found under my Body Mount.. This was redone in the past and just had a nut on the top side.
I am not an expert on glass but am comfortable trying.
Opinions on repairing this please...Thx Buddy

 

I would start by cleaning it all up real well, maybe with some fine grit sand paper after washing it. Just to see how rotted it is...


Putting in a patch might just fix the symptom (gaping hole), but not cure the problem...


But I'm no expert.

 

Thats really not that hard of a fix. Clean and scuff real well with 40g paper. Then lay in about four layers of matt in the well and a couple on the underside.

 

That looks like the #4 mount (behind the rear wheel?). If it is, you can buy new reinforcements that rivet to the fiberglass. The problem is it looks like Bubba smashed the fiberglass while installing reinforcements at some point. After you re-apply 'glass to repair the body area you can install new reinforcements underneath to make everything look right.



Rick B.

 

Yeah, its not hard because there is no heavy lifting. But, it looks like it is in a difficult spot to get into compared to an exterior fender sitting in front of you so it might be a little bit of problem. Fiberglass needs something to adher to. Chevy hit the panels in the areas to be bonded with a sandblaster; they removed the surface of the pressed panel. So, you have to clean it up. You can't lay fiberglass on paint or oil; it wont stick. It will look like it stuck but it wont be. So, you have to clean the area pretty well. Let your conscience be your guide. It has to clean and raw. You may have to snip away the areas at the crack so it can lay both sides of the crack flat. Tape a piece of cardboard to the outside; then you can use a brush to paint the inside crack with resin and get a flat repair. And make sure to thoroughly wet the fiberglass matt with enough resin that it is completely impregnated with resin; dripping. A common mistake is to layup a piece of cloth or matt partially soaked and not saturated. If some of the matt is dry then the the bare fiberstrands will be the only thing holding it together and the matt will just rip off and separate. Have you ever looked at a bad repair. 90% of the time it was layed up with dry spots. So, I would completely clean the cracks, sand it, grind it, tape the back, and prep it well. Then paint on some resin to make sure the body is completely wetted down in the area to be repaired, precut and then place some 1" wide strips of matt of the correct length so they lay flat on the cracks to avoid air bubbles. Rip the matt apart so it is half the thickness so it will lay flatter and you can be assured that it is wet. Use the second piece so you have two layers. Make sure its wet ... and flat. They have small rollers to roll it down and press it flat to remove air bubbles. You could lay an inch thick layers of matt down but if its not wetted down and there are air bubbles in it, you would have a weak repair. Press it down, let it harden, see what you've got. Sand, grind, flatten and repeat with a second coat and you should be fine.

It that whole section was ripped out and laying on the floor, you could repair by making a mold with cardboard on the car using the opposite side as a guide. Then paint resin on it from the inside, make sure whatever is left is clean and ground down so the bond would hold, same drill, thin precut pieces that fit together like a glove. Your cutting cloth not 1/2" steel so its easy to cut and layout. It would be cutting cloth and laying on a fedex box. You have to watch out for the corners. Its no problem, no heavy lifting, takes a little time, and you'll probably scratch your knuckles on that one because of the location.

If you never did it before, do a test. Make something small out of cardboard. Cut some cloth/matt, mix some resin, stir it, mix it, note the bubbles, paint it on, press it down, work it in, lay up a strip on the edge, see how easy or difficult it is to bend in around/on a corner. Make a note of the mixing ratio, the working time and the time it takes to harden then adjust according for more or less working time.

You can spend as little or as much time as you want on it. My goal would be to have the repair flat/thin and strong. So, I would clean it well, and precut the pieces so they fit "like a glove", separate the matt to be thinner, and work it down so it would be flat with no dryspots and no airbubbles. You can either put the precut matt on a table and pour resin on it and work it in or place the matt in a cup if the piece is small enough and work it around in the cup until wet.

So, to get it done you need the fiberglass matt, resin, hardener, scissors, cups, mixing sticks, maybe a roller, a particular kind of cardboard thats strong enough but easily cut and some thin aluminum for strengthening the backing cardboard if needed. If I was over your place doing this with you, I would tell you get one or two domino's pizzas so we could use the box and maybe two six packs of miller light (in cans).

 

OK, here is where I am at Before and After, But how do I get the new Body Mount Bracket on without lifting the whole body? I could bend or cut the rear side tab of the bracket but I don't think that is a good idea.

Thx
Buddy

BEFORE

AFTER


NEW BRACKET????

 

Yup, unless you a NCRS type, you need to cut the shortest side that will allow you to fasten that new steel bucket in place, I THINK I did the inside edge and slid it in from the side of the car....I used stainless nutz and bolts for fasteners....one thing I did was fill the whole mess with resins or epoxy, I forget which...and painted/sealed it up tight, water tight....rust THIS!!

the filling of the steel bucket with material made the thing solid as a rock, not going anywhere soon....you see that a way, the main thrust is not taken by the bolts, and the missing side support is not a issue, as the up force is taken up by it being solid all around.....

I know, I"m lazy....

 

Well I got the #3 mount bolt loose and was able to pry the body up with a 2x4 and a piece of plywood. Although I didn't have to cut it I didn't rivet the rear for lack of access. One day I will remove the splash shield piece and do it. I would fill it with sealer but I plan to remove the body within a few years and restore it right. ugh!!

Thx
Buddy

 

Thanx All...

Buddy M