adjust shifter linkage
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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Long Island New York
adjust shifter linkage
Hello all, (any many thanks to all that have helped me this far), I have a 75 vette with a BW Super T10 tranny, does anyone have the procedure for adjusting the linkage rods from the shifter to the tranny? Right now I am binding reverse. I have done this before with other chevy's and there used to be a slot in the shifter to put a pin in and then tighten or loosen the rod play at the tranny. Is this still the case?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Long Island New York
Thanks again Duke
Thank you Duke for all of your help, now I just have to change the bearings on the motor. As we last spoke, I have removed the neutral balanced 350 flywheel and installed the proper exterior balanced flywheel on my 400 SBC. I installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bushing as well. No more vibration and the car is running and shifting great (have some jamming issues with reverse but that will fix with proper adjustment). Now all I have to do is change the bearings on the motor, I think the rear main is bad b/c of running with the motor out of balance. Hopefully that will be the last of the problem. I was able to take the tranny out and change the flywheel and put everything back together in one day by myself, so not too bad. (and I did not have to remove the exhaust). Job was not too bad, but getting the pilot bushing out was a PIA!! Any idea how hard the bearings are going to be to do? I was going to pull the main cap and a rod cap and get the numbers off the bearings and just replace what I have and see if that takes care of the knock what do you think?
Le Mans Master
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Pull the rear main bearing and the #4 main too- Chevy sometimes put a rear main bearing in that was .0015 undersize for oil control. See what you have.
When you roll the bearings in, make sure the backs of the bearings stay dry and clean. Anything trapped in between the bearing shell and the saddle will cause a high spot and wear.
All the crank bearings can be changed in the car, and I have done it, but I'm not a fan of doing it that way for reasons stated.
Pull the rear main cap and look at the bearing- IIRC, if there's wear showing on the bearing then that may be your problem. Also pay attention to the color of the rods and main caps- anything that looks overheated may be your real problem spot. make sure you mark the rod caps and mains for location AND orientation.
You say you have a knock? can you isolate where it is? front. back. does it change with RPM? can you change it by pulling a plug wire? Is it a deep thunk,thunk that seems timed to RPM? Or a little tinny tick tick?
When you roll the bearings in, make sure the backs of the bearings stay dry and clean. Anything trapped in between the bearing shell and the saddle will cause a high spot and wear.
All the crank bearings can be changed in the car, and I have done it, but I'm not a fan of doing it that way for reasons stated.
Pull the rear main cap and look at the bearing- IIRC, if there's wear showing on the bearing then that may be your problem. Also pay attention to the color of the rods and main caps- anything that looks overheated may be your real problem spot. make sure you mark the rod caps and mains for location AND orientation.
You say you have a knock? can you isolate where it is? front. back. does it change with RPM? can you change it by pulling a plug wire? Is it a deep thunk,thunk that seems timed to RPM? Or a little tinny tick tick?
Last edited by TimAT; Apr 20, 2009 at 11:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Long Island New York
Hey Tim
Hi Tim, thanks for your input, its a knock at low RPM when you raise the RPM it goes away, the problem with my motor was that someone put a 400 where the 350 was and they used the 350 flywheel. I am guessing that the rear of the motor was out of balance and honed the rear main which is now knocking. I have tried my best to isolate the knock, no difference with plug wire off, its low end and definitely not a tick (I also pulled the valve covers and adjusted the valves and all are oil properly). I just hope its not the crank itself. The engine is very strong and has great oil pressure (never drops below 38-40). The knock is more of a bang that goes with the rpm. I've used a stethoscope on the car and its still hard to isolate, if you listen from the top, it seems like its coming from dead center of the motor towards the back, if you listen from the pan, it seems to be on the passenger side towards the back. So hard to tell. I guess the easiest way is to pull the pan and look around and check for piston skirt damage, journal damage, and look for a rod with more play in it then the others, once I pull the bearing caps I will see if they are worn. Any ideas?
