Working with fiberglass
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Working with fiberglass
Anyone seen any good 'how-to' books/videos/web sites on working with fiberglass.
Like best way to repair a hole in the panel?
How to fix that 'star' affect?
How to pick what type of fabric to use (lord I didn't know there was more then one choice).
What type of filler to use to get minor dings resolved?
etc . .
I am not near ready to work on body yet (http://rockymtninfo.org/ABetterVet.html) , but I would like to practice on other projects first.
Like best way to repair a hole in the panel?
How to fix that 'star' affect?
How to pick what type of fabric to use (lord I didn't know there was more then one choice).
What type of filler to use to get minor dings resolved?
etc . .
I am not near ready to work on body yet (http://rockymtninfo.org/ABetterVet.html) , but I would like to practice on other projects first.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
Well you will be working with SMC and not fiberglass although the same techniques pretty much apply. You'll want to use a good hard curing epoxy resin, NOT polyester for use on your project, check out West Systems and use 1.5 ounce fiberglass matt, NOT cloth. You may find some good books or DVDs from West Systems distributors. Apply fillers over top of your epoxy primer, not much likes to stick to SMC.
Ecklers has a couple of DVDs, can't say if they are any good or not. There is also a book called The Fiberglass Construction Handbook that you might look over, not sure if its worth buying for what you need to do. You can also check out http://www.glas-ra.com/ and http://www.westsystem.com/ss/how-to-use/
Ecklers has a couple of DVDs, can't say if they are any good or not. There is also a book called The Fiberglass Construction Handbook that you might look over, not sure if its worth buying for what you need to do. You can also check out http://www.glas-ra.com/ and http://www.westsystem.com/ss/how-to-use/
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 3
From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
fiberglass repair
I do not know what type of fiberglass you are working with. Is it pressmolded or SMC. SMC is tricky and one bit of advice is that when you are grinding a star burst crack do not be fooled. The crack may appear small but when you start to grind it out slowly you may see that the crack is larger that what is showing on the top side. SMC likes to delaminate unlike press moled when cracks much cleaner through the panel. Due to the process of how they construct a SMC panel they apply sheets of glass layered on top of one another, Hence the name Sheet Molded Compound. So the panel is like a flaky biscuit. You keep grinding slowly until all of the distressed material is removed and stops flaking away. You will see it chunking away when it is still needing grindins. That is when you know that you are at an area of good solid SCM. If you don't, then air, moisture and other contaminents can become trapped and cause for a problem in the future when the panel gets heated by the sun or by the engine if you are working on the hood.
The resin is different than that of press molded fiberglass and requires much attention to how clean the panel is prior to lanimating. I have been doing restoration for over 20 years and have found that wiping the prepped area with acetone provides a very clean residue free area for my repair products that I use. Remember it is always that 1/1,000,000 " of residue that can inhibit a product from adhering correctly.
Never use the clotch fabric on the top surface. but it is great as a final layer on the underside for much great linear strength than the matt.
Air bubbles are a major concern and much care should be given when laninating to prevent air bubbles by using special rollers designed for fiberglass laminating or the use of a paint brush with about half of the length of the bristles cut off to strengthen them to aid in forcing the air out.
Using West products is great. I use this product in repairing carbon fiber funny car bodies and it works great. Just do not mix up excessive amounts of the product because depending on the temperature at the time, the product inside your mixing bucket will cure very rapidly if there is a large volume of it in the container. I usually mix 3-4 ounces at a time and keep mixing instead of mixing a quart and knowing that it will take me some time to get it applied. On second it is liquid the next second it is hard. Been there, done that. Just wasted good material.
I hoped this helped , if you need more info, contact me.
As for fillind in minor gouges , (not cracks) the use of Fiberglass/evercoat Vette panel adhesive/ filler is awesome. I have used it for years with NEVER a problem. It is awesome filler and gets very hard. It has some tricks of its own if you need to know.
Also taper all of your repairs, holes , cracks etc. Do not leave the prepped area just squared off, if you dont....you will have a problem.
"DUB"
The resin is different than that of press molded fiberglass and requires much attention to how clean the panel is prior to lanimating. I have been doing restoration for over 20 years and have found that wiping the prepped area with acetone provides a very clean residue free area for my repair products that I use. Remember it is always that 1/1,000,000 " of residue that can inhibit a product from adhering correctly.
Never use the clotch fabric on the top surface. but it is great as a final layer on the underside for much great linear strength than the matt.
Air bubbles are a major concern and much care should be given when laninating to prevent air bubbles by using special rollers designed for fiberglass laminating or the use of a paint brush with about half of the length of the bristles cut off to strengthen them to aid in forcing the air out.
Using West products is great. I use this product in repairing carbon fiber funny car bodies and it works great. Just do not mix up excessive amounts of the product because depending on the temperature at the time, the product inside your mixing bucket will cure very rapidly if there is a large volume of it in the container. I usually mix 3-4 ounces at a time and keep mixing instead of mixing a quart and knowing that it will take me some time to get it applied. On second it is liquid the next second it is hard. Been there, done that. Just wasted good material.
I hoped this helped , if you need more info, contact me.
As for fillind in minor gouges , (not cracks) the use of Fiberglass/evercoat Vette panel adhesive/ filler is awesome. I have used it for years with NEVER a problem. It is awesome filler and gets very hard. It has some tricks of its own if you need to know.
Also taper all of your repairs, holes , cracks etc. Do not leave the prepped area just squared off, if you dont....you will have a problem.
"DUB"
