Differential Assembly
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Differential Assembly
We had a thread on rebuild of the differential: I've completed gasket replacement, reinstalling crossmember and leafspring but two issues:
1. The new rubber for the spring mounts aren't sitting nicely in their respective link bolt cups...will this straighten out once its under weight? And if not, what's the fix?
2. I removed the front snub bracket (I think that's the name) but its the last install item. The front bolt hole is not aligning up. Once underweight will it shift or do I put a crow above it to ease it down into place?
1. The new rubber for the spring mounts aren't sitting nicely in their respective link bolt cups...will this straighten out once its under weight? And if not, what's the fix?
2. I removed the front snub bracket (I think that's the name) but its the last install item. The front bolt hole is not aligning up. Once underweight will it shift or do I put a crow above it to ease it down into place?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
Seems to me I've read before about people having trouble with the diff rotating after the snubber bolt is removed. I would loosen the crossmember bolts, lever the snubber bracket into place, and wedge a block of wood or something between the diff and the body to hold the diff in place while you start the bolt. Remove the block of wood and torque everything to spec. Before you do any of this though, if you haven't already, replace the snubber cushion
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Seems to me I've read before about people having trouble with the diff rotating after the snubber bolt is removed. I would loosen the crossmember bolts, lever the snubber bracket into place, and wedge a block of wood or something between the diff and the body to hold the diff in place while you start the bolt. Remove the block of wood and torque everything to spec. Before you do any of this though, if you haven't already, replace the snubber cushion
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Seems to me I've read before about people having trouble with the diff rotating after the snubber bolt is removed. I would loosen the crossmember bolts, lever the snubber bracket into place, and wedge a block of wood or something between the diff and the body to hold the diff in place while you start the bolt. Remove the block of wood and torque everything to spec. Before you do any of this though, if you haven't already, replace the snubber cushion
Rick B.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
The differential will move; the differential crossmember is connected to the frame by large rubber bushings, meant (like the pinion snubber bushing) to isolate drivetrain vibration from the car's frame. Even if these are new, a worn snubber cushion will allow the front of the differential to move up and down when it comes under load, producing a "clunk" from your rear end when you shift into gear. I am in the middle of a rear suspension rebuild, and this was one of the problems that convinced me to do it.
If you do a search on this forum for any of these terms you will find plenty of threads advising replacement of the cushion. They are available in rubber and poly, and can be had for less than $25. Seems like a no-brainer to me, YMMV.
The crossmember bushings are another matter, as they are not only a pain to replace, but pretty expensive too.
If you do a search on this forum for any of these terms you will find plenty of threads advising replacement of the cushion. They are available in rubber and poly, and can be had for less than $25. Seems like a no-brainer to me, YMMV.
The crossmember bushings are another matter, as they are not only a pain to replace, but pretty expensive too.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 3
From: Woodinville WA
We had a thread on rebuild of the differential: I've completed gasket replacement, reinstalling crossmember and leafspring but two issues:
1. The new rubber for the spring mounts aren't sitting nicely in their respective link bolt cups...will this straighten out once its under weight? And if not, what's the fix?
2. I removed the front snub bracket (I think that's the name) but its the last install item. The front bolt hole is not aligning up. Once underweight will it shift or do I put a crow above it to ease it down into place?
1. The new rubber for the spring mounts aren't sitting nicely in their respective link bolt cups...will this straighten out once its under weight? And if not, what's the fix?
2. I removed the front snub bracket (I think that's the name) but its the last install item. The front bolt hole is not aligning up. Once underweight will it shift or do I put a crow above it to ease it down into place?
1. If you are talking about the bushings at the ends of the springs, they should straighten out once the weight of the car is put back on the spring. The end link bolts are probably at an angle while it is jacked up too.
2. I raised the assembly (crossmember/diff) and put the pinion snubber bolt in first - just enough to hold the whole assembly centered while I raised the back up and into place to bolt up the crossmember.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
Well I ended up unspringing it (drop spring from link bolts) which took pressure off of it, dropped cross member and lowered it about an inch. than both bolts lined up. Secured them with front snubber bolt than reconnected crossmember and spring.
