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I just rebuilt and installed a junkyard 350 in my 71 Pickup. I didnt realize until I tried to install the starter that the bolt that is closest to the front is broken off about 1/2 inch into the block. To make matters worse it also has an EZ out broken off in it too. The EZ out does protrude about 1/4 inch from the broken bolt but still inside the hole. Does anyone have any easy suggestions that dont include pulling the motor? That can be done from under the truck?
This is the automotive equivalent of a 7-10 split in the beer frame.
Once an easy out is broken off, you pretty much eliminate being able to drill out the broken bolt. I have never tried this, but there is a welding rod that is designed for penetrating the hard steel of the easy out as well as distingrating the broken bolt. I believe this is a machine shop-only operation so there isn't really anthing you can do in your driveway. By all means, call your local machine shop and explain your situation. They deal with this kind of stuff all the time.
I have a set of easy outs but have never used them exactly for this reason.
Tough break.....can you get a pair of needle nose plyars on the EZ out??? If you can't get ahold of that your in deep do-do. If you can get that out the bolt should be no problem to drill out, and then use a tap. I am sure you are aware of this already...just trying to be helpful :rolleyes:
Yep, Already thought of the usual. Just polling for any unknown(to me)tricks. Even tried to use the straight across bolt pattern starter versus the angled bolt pattern starter. Didnt work. Placed the nose too close to the flywheel to even bolt up.
Been there, done that.
Get a set of punches and pulverize the easy out. The bolt's probably not drilled all the way through, so break just break it up and get the pieces out. If it is drilled through, be sure to get the pieces out of the area behind the bolt. They will definitely break the drill bit. An air grinder or dremmel with a small cylidical or tapered grinding stone can also be used to remove material.
After that, drill the bolt all the way trough (very important), use penetrating oil, heat it with a torch, then try a good easy out.
I've done a lot of work on old boats, and this is VERY common on them.
Gary
Been there, done that.
Get a set of punches and pulverize the easy out. The bolt's probably not drilled all the way through, so break just break it up and get the pieces out. If it is drilled through, be sure to get the pieces out of the area behind the bolt. They will definitely break the drill bit. An air grinder or dremmel with a small cylindrical or tapered grinding stone can also be used to remove material.
After that, drill the bolt all the way trough (very important), use penetrating oil, heat it with a torch, then try a good easy out.
I've done a lot of work on old boats, and this is VERY common on them.
Gary
Follow Gary's advice, it is your best chance of getting it out, the only thing I can think of is to get yourself a set of reverse twist drill bits. After you get the Eze-out broken up, place one of the reverse drill bits in the hole and start drilling (with your drill in REVERSE.) If you are lucky after a couple of passes of progressively bigger bits the remainder of the bolt will back out of the hole.
You might be able to get the reverse drill bits from Sears, but if they don't have them then try a machine shop or really well equiped hardware store.
I understand there are diamond tipped drill bits that can be bought that will cut through the E-Z Out. Also, I have succesfully used the Drill-Out Power Extractors. They are very good E-Z Outs.
If It is the bolt closest to the front. not the bolt that is closest to the outside you are probably better off buying the mini starter, As this starter bolts with the two furthest back bolt holes. Also some mini staters come with a spacer package allowing you to control the depth of engagement, Armature spacer and bolt shims. You will spend all your money on reverse drill bits and still have all the work. I recommend this also if it is the back bolt but if it is the front bolt buy the mini starter as it is better anyway. :)
If you can get the eze-out out then try to beg-borrow a drill that also has the "hammer" option for drilling (usually for drilling in concrete, etc) my B&D 1/2" has the feature. Anyway, if use a drill in hammer mode SLOWLY, sometimes the jarring is enough to break a rusted bolt loose, and then try to drill out in REVERSE and maybe, just maybe, the bolt will break loose.
It's a real long shot, But you could try using an Fine tip on the flame of a torch and heat it up and try to remove it with a pair of needle nose? You'd have to have a fine tip to the flame on a acy/oxy setup and heat the hell out of it then try to back it out.
I was going to recommend changing flywheel to small one so you can use straight across bolts.
But I now think the mini starter may turn out to be your best bet if all else fails. Just look for the ones that have the adjustable positions on them. Jegs and Summit carry them.
If anyone ever hits this with a std trans you can install a scattershield or use early 55/57 or early truck bellhousing to allow starter to bolt up with 3 bolts to the bellhousing instead of block.