When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was driving my '80 (California 305) getting on the freeway from an on-ramp when I noticed a significant lose in power. I pulled her over and she was idling very rough. I replaced the vacuum modulator on the tranny thinking this would correct the problem. It didn't. Today I started looking closer and I removed the EGR valve. I connected a small vacuum hose to the nipple and I applied vacuum. As vacuum is applied I can see the round flat metal disk start to move, but it doesn't go all the way in. Should the valve hold vacuum? Is my valve stuck open or closed? If I need to replace it, where should I go to buy one? I need to pass smog very soon and would like to drive her this summer.
EGR is normally closed and takes vacuum to open it. Yes, it should hold vacuum. Here is a trouble shooting chart from a 79' Service Manual that may help you.
Thank you for the replies. Well, I looked at the EGR valve closely and it does have a tiny rip on the rubber material. It isn't holding vacuum. So, the valve is in the closed position then. Would a closed EGR valve have the symptoms I described; rough idle, loss of power, shaking a lot...?
...Would a closed EGR valve have the symptoms I described; rough idle, loss of power, shaking a lot...?
.
No. A closed valve would not be noticeable other than some spark ping under heavier throttle. An open, or partially open valve would cause such behavior.
You need to examine the basics. Your ignition and fuel systems.
No. A closed valve would not be noticeable other than some spark ping under heavier throttle. An open, or partially open valve would cause such behavior.
You need to examine the basics. Your ignition and fuel systems.
You can run around with the EGR disconnected without much trouble. You have a different issue someplace.
What about a valve that's in the closed position but has a ruptured diaphragm? Would this be a similar situation as a valve that is stuck in the open position with a working diaphragm? The diaphragm on my valve has a small tear. I will be replacing it later today.
The diaphragm is just part of the vacuum motor. If you really suspect EGR is your problem, you can make (or buy) a block-off plate that takes EGR out of the equation. This would be a lot cheaper, from the trouble shooting perspective, than buying a replacement valve and you'd have your answer. For the EGR to be the issue, in tact diaphragm or not, the pintel would have to be in the unclosed position. This happens, but is an issue separate from the diaphragm itself.
Start car and let idle, reach under diaphram of EGR valve and push the valve open manually. A good idle will get bad and a bad idle will get worse while you hold open the EGR valve. Sometimes they get stuck open and cause a rough idle.
Start car and let idle, reach under diaphram of EGR valve and push the valve open manually. A good idle will get bad and a bad idle will get worse while you hold open the EGR valve. Sometimes they get stuck open and cause a rough idle.
Hope this helps,
Douglas in Green Bay
an open EGR will make it idle like crap if it even idles at all.
I want to thank you all for the replies and pointers. Well, I replaced the EGR valve, and she is still missing throughout the RPM range. The old EGR had a ruptured diaphragm and was not stuck open. Today I started looking at the ignition system at discovered that the spark plugs at number 5 and 7 cylinders were very loose. I adjusted them and test drove the car. The car still misses.
If it misses while idling, pull off plug wires while it's running and note the rpm difference. When you pull one off and see little or no difference in rpm change that'll be your bad cyl. From there you can investigate a bad wire possibly, check that cyl for low compression as someone already stated, pull the spark plug and inspect it, pull the valve cover and look for an unusual rocker travel etc.
If it misses while idling, pull off plug wires while it's running and note the rpm difference. When you pull one off and see little or no difference in rpm change that'll be your bad cyl. From there you can investigate a bad wire possibly, check that cyl for low compression as someone already stated, pull the spark plug and inspect it, pull the valve cover and look for an unusual rocker travel etc.
Thanks. I will do that later today. I want to get my Corvette running good enough so it can pass the smog test in a month or two from now. Then I'll be looking into installing a crate.
Thanks. I will do that later today. I want to get my Corvette running good enough so it can pass the smog test in a month or two from now. Then I'll be looking into installing a crate.
That method may not produce the issue but it's a starting point. From your original post it seems that this happened suddenly. How does the miss sound, is it random or is it cyclic like one or two cyl are always the culpret?
Spark plugs can also give you a clue as to what cyls are not doing their jobs. Look at them closely and note the color and deposit differences.
Do this: Open your hood tonight after dark...start engine and look under hood and check if your spark plug wires are arcing....that may be the issue....(and you should replace the EGR in any case..)
BTW: Got your PM...great hearing from you....maybe we need another C3 clinic....remember this one...???
Just noticed you are now up in Winchester...otherwise I'd drop by and help you out....
Rich
Last edited by rihwoods; May 15, 2009 at 10:58 AM.
Another thing to do after checking your wires, is to pull # 8 plug...EGR's can cause intake manifold gaskets to cook/leak oil fouling #8 plug.....this happened to me at 95,000 miles on my 78 with a miss/loss of power...like to drove me nuts...that is a simple check before getting into more detailed checks others have suggested...then pull rest of the plugs and don't lose track of which cylinder they came from...BTW:can you post pics of your plugs...???
Wow! Those pics do bring back some really cool memories.
I just finished replacing the cap & rotor on the dizzy. No results. It's still missing constantly. While the engine was running, I disconnected the plug wire at cylinder number#1 and there was no change in the RPM. I reconnected the plug wire and this time I disconnected it from the dizzy cover and there was a change in the RPM. I'm a bit confused as to what that might mean.
Wow! Those pics do bring back some really cool memories.
I just finished replacing the cap & rotor on the dizzy. No results. It's still missing constantly. While the engine was running, I disconnected the plug wire at cylinder number#1 and there was no change in the RPM. I reconnected the plug wire and this time I disconnected it from the dizzy cover and there was a change in the RPM. I'm a bit confused as to what that might mean.
I need some help here. What should I do next?
C3
Did you get bit ? Pulling wires on an HEI is not a real good idea IMO because the HEI has enough power to jump inside the cap which can put a permanent carbon track on the inside of the cap. If you dont have an infra red heat gun try taking a crayon and touching the manifold at each exhaust outlet and watch the difference in the heat,or use whatever method you can think of (spit works also). All your trying to do is find the cylinder that is not producing as much heat as the rest.