383 stroker crate engines - recommendation needed
Looking for good torque at 3000rpm - not so much interested in high hp-numbers. Alloy heads preffered.
Can anyone recommend a good deal on this?
Thx!!!
Regards,
Thomas
I spoke to Lloyd at T&L and he told me to send him my carburetor, distributor and wires so he can set up and dyno the engine with my stuff.
I ordered cast iron heads because I wanted the nostalgic look and no one has to know it's a stroker with Dart heads and a full roller cam set up.
I guess I'm stuck in the 70's. I just could not see an aluminum head engine under my 1970 hood.
Here is there same engine with aluminum head. Awesome torque. http://www.tandlengines.com/chevy_sb...m_383_A-2.html
I looked at everything from a Pat Musi 555 Big Block to the GM crates to getting a short block and doing my own top end.
Big Time HP was a goal for me, I ended up going with a Shafiroff Racing 427 small block. 525 HP and 550 ft lbs TQ, 2 year warranty, pump gas friendly and street driveable.
I said that to say this, If you just want a stroker 383 with good power and manners, get a GM Performance Parts ZZ383 from summit or Jegs, they are in stock and reasonably priced.
I will not directly name any one builder, but as to getting an engine from a builder, DO YOUR HOMEWORK, google them and see what other folks have to say, I almost dropped some big coin on a builder that has a notorious reputation for delivering engines weeks or months late, if at all! (and kiss your deposit goodbye)
I found this info going back all the way to 2006 and as recent as early this year, that was enough to send me elsewhere.
Do your homework and spend your money wisely, your worked hard for it.
As to the aluminum heads, some spray paint will fix that!!
I had a ratty old chevelle years ago with aluminum heads and intake but painted the whole engine chevy orange including steel valve covers and a stock air cleaner, THAT car won me plenty of money!

http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines.asp
This is the one I went with
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/427_realstreet.asp
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/427_realstreet.asp


The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...otor-pics.html
A lot of one off builders turn out a great product but at what expense?
Mike at motorworks engines in Spokane hooked me up but then again I’m in the business so I should get the occasional hook up anyway they build a rock solid 383 offer a 5yr warranty complete from pan to intake and from balancer to flywheel and I think he sells them to the public for $2500.00 Mine dynoed at 439hp and is supper streetable my wife drives it to work on the weekends. I am happy they did me right.
http://www.motorworksengines.com/index.php?pr=383
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...otor-pics.html
I can recommend:
http://www.masperformance.com/cratemotors.htm
Mike Steele is the owner builder, he'll put any combination yoou want together, or ship you one of his standard builds. He has experience in shipping to Germany.
I've got one of his strokers in my '79, just under 500 HP/Tq.
Can't say I'd recommend that for a daily street engine and it has found most of the other weak links.
Anyway, mine is going on it's third year without any problems what-so-ever. He offers a two year warranty, but how good is a warranty when the builder is 10,000 miles away.
Give Mile a call, he's a straight shooter.
http://enginefactory.com/
Another builder who exports a lot to overseas customers...
I used enginefactory as they had an Australian agent.
They also have a German agent for the company..
http://www.enginefactory.com/Interna...ales_Staff.htm
I bought mine from them.... a 475hp 383.
Still puts a big grin on my face....
just a casual stroll through the hills on a sunday morning.....

Last edited by OzzyTom; Feb 9, 2012 at 01:22 AM.
No issues with motor. Very happy with it.
Sounds tough at idle and awesome under WOT.
It's not like a big block though.
Not a huge amount of torque below 2000, but from 3000 to 6000 rpm it absolutely flies!

I am about to swap the diff over from a 3.36 to a 3.73 which was recomended by builder.
That should wake it up even more!
Only issue I had was the original water pump was noisy after some testing on the dyno.... It appears the water pump shaft was drawn forward on it's bearings, causing the impeller to foul on the inside of casing. I have a fixed mechanical fan (no viscous coupling), and I assume the load at 5500-6000 rpm was greater than the frictional fit of the bearing/shaft interface.
I subsequently fitted an Edelbrock alloy pump... looks nicer and no problems. Only other bit of advice I offer anyone getting a crate engine... Make your decision on trans before ordering motor...
know whether you will use an auto (flex plate) or manual box (flywheel) and get it balanced with motor.
I originally intended to use an auto, and orderred motor with externally balanced flex plate. I then changed my mind, and fitted a Tremec 5sp manual. I had some issues with vibration when I fitted the externally balanced flywheel that came with the trans kit. Needed some attention at machine shop... I also lightened the flywheel for better response.
In future I will only order internally balanced motor configuration.
Less hassles.
edit: Forgot to mention....
I'm not a big fan of the 800 cfm Edelbrock AVS carb that my motor was supplied with.
I had issues with it, and couldn't get it to run right.
The low manifold vaccuum and choppy idle may have contributed to my problems...
I gave it to a mate running a stock 396 big block in a 65 thunderbird, and he's very happy with it.
I fitted a 750 cfm Holley HP Street (double pumper) and it has worked very well.
Picked up some additional horses on the dyno at the top end, but lost a bit of torque down low with carby change.
Last edited by OzzyTom; May 15, 2009 at 01:22 AM.

I will check enginefactory out for sure.
One thing I realized on your motor is that you seem to have a small 6,5" balancer... no issues with that one yet? I had installed one on a 350 I once rebuild with some more hp than original... the damn thing started slipping the outer ring without me realizing and always wondering why I was having issues with detonnation... no wonder if you adjust timing with a TDC mark which is 25 degrees off. It took me to remove cylinder heads to finally realize. Now I am running a ZZ4 8" balancer and have also marked the cranks pulley (can't slip) with TDC just to be sure...
Have you ever thought about using a Rochester Quadrajet... so much better in low-end response than a Holley due to the smaller primaries. Could maybe compensate a bit for the low end torque. And has much better fuel economy... if that counts in Australia. Just a thought.
Good point to opt for internally balanced.
Regards from good old Germany,
Thomas
Last edited by V8yunkie; May 15, 2009 at 03:25 AM.












