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Well guys I checked with the guy I purchased my CAT rods off of. Here is what he said about my current rod bolts:
the bolts should say msa100 on them they are now using bolts from a company called ms aerospace. they make bolts for nasa, good stuff. they are rated to over 190,000# like the arp but actually test to over 220,000#.
I checked my bolts and they do indeed say msa100 on them. What do you guys thing, should I use the ARP bolts whenever they come in or use these ones, return the ARPs and get my $50 back?
Shane, sell the 220,000 lb. bolts on Ebay!!! You'll probably get $60 for them :lol: :lol: :lol:
Oh, yeah. But start the bidding at $60 and put a $150 reserve on them. That way they have a high perceived value. Besides, they're, "rare, aerospace" pieces, right? :lol:
Are these new rods? If yes and you thought enough of the rods to buy them then why not trust the bolts? I use ARP studs exclusively myself but if the bolts that come with the rods are recommended by the manufacturer why not trust them? I was always under the impression if you changed the bolts the rods should be resized. Maybe this is old fashion but this is what I was always told.
I vote to keep the existing rod bolts and save the $50. if the rods are new. If they are old change the bolts but have the rods at least checked. How about full floating pins while you are at it. A slight hone of the small end and a few oil holes and you have full floaters for easy installation of rods and pistons.
Norval:
These are brand new rods, never used and they were still in their individual wrappers whenever I received them. I purchased the rods off of a CAT distributor. BTW these CAT rods are already bushed for full floaters and my pistons are full floater pistons....so you can bet I'm not going to be using pressed in pins.
The rods come with a warranty of:
All steel connecting rods- 24 months, or 24,000 miles, or 1,000 hours of operation
So Norval you recommend staying with the rod bolts that are already coupled with the rods? I'm only going to be revving the engine to a maximum of 6500RPMs and those 6500RPMs are only going to be for a brief period of time.
If I did decide to use the ARP bolts what would need to be done to the rods to accept the ARP rod bolts?
I am pretty sure these were the bolts my connecting rods were supposed to come with. I was told about them at the time of my purchase. Even better than ARP, and the company was in the aerospace industry and just getting into automotive. When I got my rods they had the ARP's. Oh well.
I wouldn't even consider changing the rod bolts. Do you think the manufacuturer of those rods would let something as cheap as a rod bolt cause you a problem? Leave them alone. 6500 is not that high.
Bence save your money for something else and send the ARP back.
Look at the rod bolts...are they knurled?
If they are then toss em in the trash and use the ARP wavelock.
knurling has got to be the stupidest thing to do to a high strees bolt, can you say stress riser?:U
High stress parts should be polished and smooth, knurling just makes a whole bunch of nice places for cracks to start...