Choke problem
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Delta Ohio
Choke problem
Hi,I have 2 problems. first I have a 80 vette stock except all smog crap has been removed.
1) my choke light in the dash stays on and the car willnot kick down to low idle, when I move a small lever behind the choke with my finger all settles down nicely, when I step on the gas pedal the rpm goes up but will not settle doen again untill i move the little lever again. I have 12 volts to the choke wire but 0 volts when the wire is hooked up to the choke. Can i just diable the choke alltogether as I only drive it in the summer anyway??
2) My battery dies after 3-4 days, only thing I noticed so far is the altenantor. with car off and key removed I have 12 volts going to the wire on the terminal stud on the altinator. 1 wire is ground which is good, then the plug which is good then the other wire to the stud which is hot. Is this normal???????????
thank you all for your help
Larry
1) my choke light in the dash stays on and the car willnot kick down to low idle, when I move a small lever behind the choke with my finger all settles down nicely, when I step on the gas pedal the rpm goes up but will not settle doen again untill i move the little lever again. I have 12 volts to the choke wire but 0 volts when the wire is hooked up to the choke. Can i just diable the choke alltogether as I only drive it in the summer anyway??
2) My battery dies after 3-4 days, only thing I noticed so far is the altenantor. with car off and key removed I have 12 volts going to the wire on the terminal stud on the altinator. 1 wire is ground which is good, then the plug which is good then the other wire to the stud which is hot. Is this normal???????????
thank you all for your help
Larry
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
The alternator is connected to the battery, so yes, you'll see 12 volts there.
You can use a 12v test light or a DMM to narrow down the battery drain. Disconnect the neg. cable to the battery and put your light in line. The light should be on with the car door closed(interior lights off) showing the drain. One at a time pull each fuse (and close the door) til the light goes off. At least you can find the circuit the drain is on that way. If you have an electric clock or radio with memory, those will have to be disconnected before testing.
You can use a 12v test light or a DMM to narrow down the battery drain. Disconnect the neg. cable to the battery and put your light in line. The light should be on with the car door closed(interior lights off) showing the drain. One at a time pull each fuse (and close the door) til the light goes off. At least you can find the circuit the drain is on that way. If you have an electric clock or radio with memory, those will have to be disconnected before testing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,465
Likes: 0
From: Orange Park Fl
It sounds like your choke thermostat is bad (it's the black thing the wire plugs into). I have to replace them on 90% of the electric choke carbs I rebuild. Go down to NAPA and get a new one.
God bless, Sensei
God bless, Sensei
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
You need a wiring diagram from GM or a good quality source. I don't recall exactly which years, but there was a choke heater relay that controlled the voltage to the choke and also excited the field of the alternator. With the car running, check for 12v at the small brown wire in the alternator plug and at the choke.
