Based on info from Mortec my engine with the spun bearings reads as follows:

Block # 3999289 Casting Date C 1273 (March 12, 1973)
454 72-79 2 or 4 bolt
Engine Assembly Date T0316TRK (March 16)

So this is indeed a 454 big block built in 1973 installed in my 1969 car.
What kind of potential does this engine have being rebuilt? Being a 454 is good but how do you track down the HP and Torque based on the Block and Assembly information? Rebuild or replace? What do you think?
Thanks,
Russ

 

Since you don't have a numbers matching block, seems to me that a crate motor with a warranty is your best value. Unless you can rebuild it yourself.

 

Rebuilding myself is out of the question. Dropping a new big block crate engine in is going to cost at least $4000.00, more if I get crazy. I am not sure if I want to drop that much cash into the car now.

 

The TRK suffix in T0316TRK indicates a '73 truck 454 rated at 240 net hp and used with an automatic trans.

tom...

 

Ok, with this being a truck engine does it pay to put $$$ into it?

 

It is still a 454. The block sounds to be in good shape. Have you talked to any local engine shops about having your motor rebuilt ? I would have the short block rebuilt locally. Source a set of aftermarket cylinder heads. It will not be as expensive as having the whole motor redone, nor as expensive as a GM crate motor.

Good Luck.

 

Russ, the engine is just like any other 454. Truck or not, it's the same thing. You'll hear people talk about "truck" blocks, but that's probably not what you have (they only came in BIG trucks, not pickups). Yours is most likely a regular 454.

The hp potential of the block is completely dependant on what's put in and around it. What intake manifold are you running? Is it the original '69 aluminum unit, or the cast iron (orange) truck unit? Which carb? The cam doesn't matter because you'll replace it anyway.

The one thing you'll have to look out for is the heads. Truck engines usually came with "peanut port" heads that don't flow very well and will definitely impact performance. Hopefully, the engine swapper was smart enough to retain the '69 big oval port heads. It would also be a good idea to remove one of the valve covers and check the head casting numbers (a 5 minute job).

These rebuilds will nickel and dime you to death! It will be hard to keep under your $4000 figure if you want somebody else to do all the labor...

Could you install a crate yourself? If you can, that's the way to go since your engine isn't original anyway. You could then sell the parts from the 454 to get a portion of your money back. 454 cores, even with spun bearings, sell for a few $$ in NJ.

EDIT: Just thought of another option (to minimize your cash outlay). I talked to a few wrecking yards when I was looking for a block, and most of them had running 454's for sale for around $800. You could just swap the block and be back in business for a minimal investment if more performance isn't your goal. It's obviously perferrable to go new, but it's better than a '69 Corvette garage decoration that doesn't drive!

-Joe




[Modified by Flareside, 8:35 AM 2/6/2002]

 

Joe - when I get home tonight I will pull one of the valve covers and check out the head casting number. Anything I should watch out for when taking off the cover? Although with the engine dead, not much damage I could do anyway.
Also, the intake manifold is not orange, looks aluminum to me. The casting number on it is GM 8947801.
Where is Roxbury?
Russ

 

Russ,

The 801 is the original manifold for your car, and it's a large oval port model. That's good! Hopefully, "bubba" didn't install it on peanut port heads ;) (I doubt they did.)

Nothing to worry about when pulling a valve cover. Just remove the six bolts and then lift it off. You'll see the casting number and date right there. You can usually reuse the gaskets if need be, but with a spun bearing that doesn't matter much :lol:

Roxbury is about 30 miles northwest of Scotch Plains. If you took 287 north to Parsippany, then got on 80 west for about 15 miles you'd be in my town. There are a bunch of us in North Jersey that can help you if you get stuck, just let me know.

-Joe

 

Joe, Would you like to practice "engine pulling" on Russ' car? :yesnod:
I'll help!! MJ

 

I'm in! I'll be right over with my "Pep boys Special" engine hoist! :lol:

 

Sure, no problem guys. How much beer does it take to pull and engine? :cheers:

 

Replace it! its not NOM- maybe someone needs it for some project. :D

 

An engine can easily be pulled in 30 min. esp. if you hold out on the beer :eek: till the engine is out.

:cheers:

 

Sorry, if there's no beer, I can't make it :blueangel:

 

Pulled the valve cover and read the follow head # 353049 dated C1473. This is a 73-84 head...oval...open...454. The build date falls right in with the block date and the assembly date. Spoke to my Dad about the engine, he told me he rebuilt a 1953 buick back in 1963 when he has in the Army. Not sure if he is up to the challange.
So seriously, which way to go? All I want is a car that will start and go when I want it to.

Russ

 

That engine can be rebuilt for about $1500 as long as you just do a basic type rebuild.

 

Cam - I would jump at a price like that. MIght even be able to spend a few more $$ on go fast or go showy stuff. In NJ we pay more for everything but my search is on. Thanks.

Russ