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I have replaced one several years ago, but I wondered if any of you guys could give me the quick info on replacing a starter on a 1979 L82 Vette.
Thanx,
I have a 1979 and there is only 2 bolts holding it in place plus the ones that hold the heat shield. Then just pay close att to where the wires go and mark them if You need to.
Hope that helps.
If you don't have one get a starter brace. Most auto parts stores will not have them in stock but you can find them on ebaY for about 10-$15.
Otherwise a simple starter removal in install project will very likely become a project of pulling the trans to replace the flywheel / flex plate.
This brace fits on the back of the starter & bolts to the block & lines the gears up foolproof! NO SHIMMING! This little part will save you about $700, including the $400 trans jack.
Test the starter for about 2 seconds. If it sounds loud & grinding then it IS & it will eat your flex plate & starter gear in a matter of seconds.
This is one of those things that everything can go perfectly or be a major headache!
Here are a few videos on my starter/ flex plate project, when I changed the starter on my 79. Incase everything goes wrong.
I moved the starter from the old motor to the new one & neither had the starter brace so I didn't know it was missing.
Just did this last week on my 1979 L82. Before I remove the starter
bolts I remove the nut that holds the positive cable and positve
power wire. This is readily visible. However, the wire that
actuates the solenoid is not visible until the starter is lowered.
Care must be taken after the nut that holds the rear brace and
the two starter bolts are removed that the starter does not
drop down and break the solenoid wire. You can balance the
starter on the exhaust pipe while removing the solenoid wire.
As others mentioned, first thing to do is remove the negative battery
cable.
Mr Go Faster, I got some good laughs out of watching your videos. How is your vehicle doing???
No more problems out of the starter after this happened but It's looking like I'm going to have to pull my trans again to swap in a stall converter just to get it to move. (currently in another thread) I'm hoping it won't be too bad because I've already pulled it once.
As others mentioned, first thing to do is remove the negative battery
cable.
Just an added note to this. While your starter is off & before you install your new one. Check the rubber around the end of the main power wire. My wires had frayed inside the rubber cover & I couldn't see it, when I went to start it there was not enough good individual strands of wire causing it to get too hot & caught on fire. More importantly, after the obvious immediate needs of putting it out, I've had unresolved electrical issues ever since. What the electrical system needs after this fiasco is to be totally gutted & replaced with new but thats about $5000 so I'm having to Bubba it at every turn.
It should take you a bout 30 sec to check it. 30 minutes & no money to fix it if there is any sign of a problem. Just cut the end off & reclamp it. Or its another one of those things than can go terribly wrong.
I am sorry for reviving this old thread. However, where do you find the information for the bolt size and torque specs for the bolt that you use to fasten the brace to the block?
I am sorry for reviving this old thread. However, where do you find the information for the bolt size and torque specs for the bolt that you use to fasten the brace to the block?
That was a long time ago but I'm pretty sure it was trial and error with a bolt bucket to find one that fit. Also Id say it's more important not to over tighten & risk breaking the little bolt in the block. Wish I could be more specific but I can say this has worked for 8-9 years now