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I am replacing the valance panel on my 69. I carefully removed the old one and used a dremel tool to leave the bonding straps bonded to the fender lowers. I did 3 dry runs using C clamps and narrow sheet rock screws to perfictally positoin the part in place. Next comes the wet run with bonding adhesive.
So, I orderd 2 quart of bonding adhesive from Ecklers.
The back of the can says:
10" ribbon of hardner on 1 pint of adhesive will set in 15 minutes.
8" ribbon will set in 35 minutes.
I was concerned that if I punctured the little bottle of hardener that it would be inconsistent with the size of puncture hole that would generate the proper width of ribbon as described on the back of the can. Also, the temperature in my garage is 85 degrees which per the can would speed up the hardening process.
I was happy to find that there was already a hole in the tube of hardener so it would not be subjective to how I punctured the tube. But... the hole was round but hey who am I to question the manufactures tube hole.
I poured approximately 1/2 of the quart container on a plastic tray. I then squeezed 8" out of the tube onto the adhesive. It didn't make a ribbon due to the round hole.
So, the adhesive never set after 24 hours. That $H!# is a mess to get off of parts so I am hoping to get the hardner to kick by putting a blow dryer below it with the heat on high and air on low. It is pretty hot but after 2 hours, still no kick on the reaction.
I should have waited on my glass guy. Any advice from you guys in the know?
Sticky fingers,
m.
I had the area up to 140-150 degrees for 4 hours. It never set.
I will bake it for a few more but I would just a soon not expose the original materials to the heat.
Pretty frustrating, I had everything all clean, trued up and the adhesive uniformly applied.
I used Lord fusor with a special caulking-type gun applicator. The adhesive and hardener squirt out together and go through a special mixing tip on the tube. This guarantees the proper ratio for the material.
If it still has not cured , let us all know. Maybe call the tech line. I have not used that product, I use something else but it should have cured by now. Hate to hear it is giving you a fit.
Sounds like you have a polyester or vinylester resin base.
If it hasn't set by now it probably won't. You can get just the hardener (MEK) as a cream or liquid at a local auto paint supply, boat supply, or marble and granite tool supply house. Usually mixed @ 1%. Try it on a bit of the resin that is left or even swab it onto part of the resin that you tried to glue just to test.
It happens sometimes, bad batch or too long a shelf life.
Shelf life can be as little as 1 month for polyesters.
Well, going to remove all of the bonding adhesive. Next, acetone the surfaces followed by 60 grit sanding. Time to start over. I have some good epoxy from West Marine. The GM bonding adhesive I ordered must have gone bad.
Thanks for all of the input. I will be begging form some additional experienced info on the next step.
Cheers,
m.
The part # is fusor 100ez , it hardens in seconds with heat. You also don't need a gun . Just cut a couple of sections off of a broom stick and mount them in a vice, put the tubes over them and push out onto some wood or cardboard. Mix it and then apply it. You have lots of time to apply it, the heat sets it up.
I already ordered the gun.
It is a glorified caulk gun for $90.
Caulk gun at home depot is $3.49.
I am near Cancun for next 8 days.
Will give it a go when I get back.
Regards to all Vette Vets
m.