gearstick hitting plate
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: York UK
gearstick hitting plate
The manual gearstick on my '69 350 is hitting the interior plate which surrounds it, and I've had to push everything up towards the dashboard so it'll go into first and third, but now the screw holes don't align and it looks rough inside. Is there an adjustment on the selector rods which will push the linkage back so the stick misses the plate?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,734
Likes: 2,582
There is an adjustment to align the neutral gate on the shifter. This may effect the problem you are experiencing. In addition the shift arms on the transmission may have 2 sets of holes, a long throw position and a short throw position. The short throw position may also effect your problem.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: York UK
shifter
There is an adjustment to align the neutral gate on the shifter. This may effect the problem you are experiencing. In addition the shift arms on the transmission may have 2 sets of holes, a long throw position and a short throw position. The short throw position may also effect your problem.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
Very cool info!
After re-installing my tranny with a new motor, I am off by a 1/4" too far forward and hit the console like the other guy.
How does putting a shim under the bracket move the shifter assembly back towards the rear? Is it pivoting the shifter? Just need to understand the theory before I do this because I only want to do this one more time as I recvall it's a $%&^%(*^* to get at this again.
After re-installing my tranny with a new motor, I am off by a 1/4" too far forward and hit the console like the other guy.
How does putting a shim under the bracket move the shifter assembly back towards the rear? Is it pivoting the shifter? Just need to understand the theory before I do this because I only want to do this one more time as I recvall it's a $%&^%(*^* to get at this again.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,125
Likes: 9
From: Crescent City, CA
It's easier than you think.
Loosen the 4 bolts on the #2 part (support arm) and the shifter will tilt.
Place a washer under each side of the front support arm and tighten the bolts and see where you are on top.
If it is still not enough, then add another washer and try again.
You will have to adjust the shifter linkage after changing the tilt in the shifter.
Hope this helps.
Terry
Loosen the 4 bolts on the #2 part (support arm) and the shifter will tilt.
Place a washer under each side of the front support arm and tighten the bolts and see where you are on top.
If it is still not enough, then add another washer and try again.
You will have to adjust the shifter linkage after changing the tilt in the shifter.
Hope this helps.
Terry
Last edited by trw; Jun 4, 2009 at 12:38 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
You don't have a lot of leeway because the rear holes are not slotted so very little movement.
As you lift the front of the bracket, the rear tilts back creating a gap between the bracket and the transmission crossmember. You will need to loosen the rear bolts quite a bit in order to get the clearance you need to insert the washers.
When I did this I used shims and even with the slotted shims it was not easy to get them into position and it didn't make much difference.
Are you sure your console is as far forward as it can be? The mounting holes for the screws are slotted and the clips slide forward and backward to accommodate.
cc
As you lift the front of the bracket, the rear tilts back creating a gap between the bracket and the transmission crossmember. You will need to loosen the rear bolts quite a bit in order to get the clearance you need to insert the washers.
When I did this I used shims and even with the slotted shims it was not easy to get them into position and it didn't make much difference.
Are you sure your console is as far forward as it can be? The mounting holes for the screws are slotted and the clips slide forward and backward to accommodate.
cc
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
Great infor guys. Not sure whoe the last question was for because I tagged on to this thread as I have the same issue.
My console is in the same position it was before I pulled the transmission, so it has to be the bracket and shims. I do recall having some "extra" washers in there when I removed it, just didn't see the purpose for them at the time, so I didn't put them back.
My console is in the same position it was before I pulled the transmission, so it has to be the bracket and shims. I do recall having some "extra" washers in there when I removed it, just didn't see the purpose for them at the time, so I didn't put them back.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: York UK
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: York UK
washers to tilt gear shift
Terry,
I wrote about a year ago asking how to stop the gear stick hitting the console plate and you posted an exploded diagram on how to insert washers in order to tilt the gear stick back and stop it hitting the plate.
I got involved in more urgent things, like camshaft replacement, so I'm having a go at it now. The four bolts which you said to slacken - are these the vertical bolts at the very bottom of the support plate, two 9/16 and two 5/8, between the exhaust tunnels? The support plate seems to curve round from the linkage rods at the top and is bolted on by the four bolts on the horizontal flat side at the bottom of the assembly.
I've slackened these but don't see the gearstick tilting. Do they have to come out altogether and have the washers fitted to see any difference? Mine's a 69, so it may be different to your 73.
Regards,
Barry.
I wrote about a year ago asking how to stop the gear stick hitting the console plate and you posted an exploded diagram on how to insert washers in order to tilt the gear stick back and stop it hitting the plate.
I got involved in more urgent things, like camshaft replacement, so I'm having a go at it now. The four bolts which you said to slacken - are these the vertical bolts at the very bottom of the support plate, two 9/16 and two 5/8, between the exhaust tunnels? The support plate seems to curve round from the linkage rods at the top and is bolted on by the four bolts on the horizontal flat side at the bottom of the assembly.
I've slackened these but don't see the gearstick tilting. Do they have to come out altogether and have the washers fitted to see any difference? Mine's a 69, so it may be different to your 73.
Regards,
Barry.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
loosen the shift control rods-they may be preventing the shift assembly from tilting. also consider using shims(like front end alignment shims) instead of washers. that way, you won't have to remove the front bolts.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 19
From: Manhattan Beach Ca
Actually I just went through this.
If your hitting the plate on first and third, then your shift main linkage bolt has come loose underneath the car. Your linkage has two main bolts. One at the top that holds everything together and one in the middle that bolts to the bracket. Top one also goes to bracket.
It's a 9/16 bolt and nut and pretty hard to get to. I would undo the fwd driveshaft and pull out the tranny yoke. This way you can move the drive shaft over 6 inches and get up to the bolt and nut from the back/aft end. My .02
oops, my bad. Looks like an old post. Info is still good though.
If your hitting the plate on first and third, then your shift main linkage bolt has come loose underneath the car. Your linkage has two main bolts. One at the top that holds everything together and one in the middle that bolts to the bracket. Top one also goes to bracket.
It's a 9/16 bolt and nut and pretty hard to get to. I would undo the fwd driveshaft and pull out the tranny yoke. This way you can move the drive shaft over 6 inches and get up to the bolt and nut from the back/aft end. My .02
oops, my bad. Looks like an old post. Info is still good though.
Last edited by Surfer69; Aug 3, 2010 at 10:09 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: York UK
Thanks Surfer - I actually managed to make sense of Terry's diagram and after quite a bit of trouble fitting washers under the plate, I was disappointed to find it made no difference above. It looks like I'll have to investigate the linkage underneath as you suggested. I tried this once before I found it almost impossible to get access in such a restricted area. I'll have another attempt tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
From: York UK
Finally got it to work! After having some trouble understanding how the linkage mechanism worked, I made up two large spacers and put them between the shift support arm and transmission cross member, and noticed the gear stick had tilted back, enough to go into first without hitting the plate, and I've been able to re-align the fascia so the screws fit into the holes again. My first mistake was that ordinary washers are too thin, although these spacers were the biggest it would take. All four bolt holes can have nuts inserted in case you damage a thread of the captive nuts. I found it difficult to work in such a restricted space, but in the end the interior looks good again as a result. Anyone who wishes some advice let me know, and thanks to all those who helped me.
