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I have a problem with a couple wires that go to the distributor,they both are covered in cloth and go to the distributor.I know what one of them is,its the + battery wire that goes to + on distributor,but i forgot what the other one went to.I changed over to hei .
They go to the + side of the coil. They should be together in one terminal.
The negative side of the coil goes to the distributer.
OK thanks,i had them together and the car would start up then quit,then i decided to seperate the one wire and ran just the wire with the power on it when key is turned on.Does the other wire have power on it when key is on?I checked it on mine and it had no power on it.
Bill
You can not use either wire for a HEI conversion....one is a resistor wire, black typically steel wire, and the other is cloth going to the extra small terminal on the starter, takes battery power direct ot the coil for hotter sparks when starting....
you need runa heavy 10-12 ga wire from the ignition switch to the HEI direct....or get into the bulkhead connector and replace that resistor wire...
You can not use either wire for a HEI conversion....one is a resistor wire, black typically steel wire, and the other is cloth going to the extra small terminal on the starter, takes battery power direct ot the coil for hotter sparks when starting....
you need runa heavy 10-12 ga wire from the ignition switch to the HEI direct....or get into the bulkhead connector and replace that resistor wire...
I took out the resistor wire and put in a heavier wire.What about the other wire?
The other wire if I recall right goes down to the starter and provides 12 volts at startup and then the resistor wire gives around 9 volts while running not to burn up the points. When running a HEI you do not need this wire. I did not realize you were running a HEI system. Just a constant 12 volt supply as stated above is all that is needed. I have long since done away with this wire, I have not run points in years.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Gordonm
The other wire if I recall right goes down to the starter and provides 12 volts at startup and then the resistor wire gives around 9 volts while runningUh, no. not to burn up the points. When running a HEI you do not need this wire. I did not realize you were running a HEI system. Just a constant 12 volt supply as stated above is all that is needed. I have long since done away with this wire, I have not run points in years.
For about the twelth time on this forum, the ballast resistance does not magically change the nominal ignition system voltage. It is 12 volts. Always. The ballast resistance limits the current that flows through the coil. That is the only function and capability of a resistor.
The HEI will run just fine at most voltages (8-12v), as long as it has a low resistance source to allow the extra current to flow into the coil. The adaptive dwell circuitry in the module will compensate for most system voltage variations.
For about the twelth time on this forum, the ballast resistance does not magically change the nominal ignition system voltage. It is 12 volts. Always. The ballast resistance limits the current that flows through the coil. That is the only function and capability of a resistor.
The HEI will run just fine at most voltages (8-12v), as long as it has a low resistance source to allow the extra current to flow into the coil. The adaptive dwell circuitry in the module will compensate for most system voltage variations.
I'm no electrical engineer by any standards but here is a quote directly from a GM manual " The primary current from the ignition switch passing through a resistance wire which lowers the voltage to approximatly 8 volts. This lower voltage provides longer contact life".
There's a difference between voltage and voltage drop. In a 12V automotive circuit the voltage at any point in that circuit is 12V, but the drop at each point of resistance (such as the points and/or resistor) varies depending on the resistance of the other points of resistance.
In short, if the points were the only point of resistance, they would see a full 12V drop but by adding resistance in line the drop at the points is reduced.
--> We should run a survey on the other forums to see how many people even know what points are!
There's a difference between voltage and voltage drop. In a 12V automotive circuit the voltage at any point in that circuit is 12V, but the drop at each point of resistance (such as the points and/or resistor) varies depending on the resistance of the other points of resistance.
In short, if the points were the only point of resistance, they would see a full 12V drop but by adding resistance in line the drop at the points is reduced.
--> We should run a survey on the other forums to see how many people even know what points are!
All trying to help here but some sure have a negative response for someone needing help.
Yes both wires go on the + side of the coil, one is full battery power from the starter only when the key is in the start position. The other has power through a resister only in the run position, and buy the way the systems are not 12 volts, well only when the engine is not running it is 12 volts, when the engine runs it is 13.2 to about 14.5 usually if all is correctly operating. And yes you should use full power for your HEI if you want it to operate right and last a good long time regardless what others say they do or have tried. Anyone with a good understanding of eletrical power will tell you what damage low voltage can do to products. If you want to check all this out look at the wiring diagrams that others have listed on this site for free and then check out what your alternator is putting out and then decide what to do. Some have said good things to help some not so good. Good Luck in your fix.
Go to you local auto parts store and tell them you want a 13.2 - 14.5 volt battery for your car and see what they say.
Well maybe a bit but the point was to show what some had said that 9 volts was ok and does anyone really think that 5.5 to 6 volts drop to the HEI is OK? On and by the way a battery is really 12.6 at full charge
Go to you local auto parts store and tell them you want a 13.2 - 14.5 volt battery for your car and see what they say.
Huh?? Hey Bash, My dad always told me when your in a discussion about something you know little about to keep silent. It's better to let them think you are stupid than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. Listen to Manuel he knows of what he says. Just pullin you chain
My advice is dump the points and go with electronic ignition. Using points these days is like trying to use a slide rule. I have one but have long forgot how to use it.
Really? I learned back in school that DC battery cells were 2.2 volts each. so 6 of them should be 13.2 volts.
So by your learning you can buy a "13.2" volt battery!!! I think you may have failed that class Anyway all points have been covered here and I think that "Billysvette" wil be able to decide the right thing to do here. I'm done.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Gordonm
I'm no electrical engineer by any standards but here is a quote directly from a GM manual " The primary current from the ignition switch passing through a resistance wire which lowers the voltage to approximatly 8 volts. This lower voltage provides longer contact life".
Don't believe everything you read. You've been a member of this forum for enough years to have seen that some things in print are sheer BS. Quite often an old wive's tale gets circulated long enough to be accepted as fact. This is one of those.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Manuel Azevedo
Well maybe a bit but the point was to show what some had said that 9 volts was ok and does anyone really think that 5.5 to 6 volts drop to the HEI is OK? On and by the way a battery is really 12.6 at full charge
I don't know if you are referring to my earlier comment (as I didn't mention a voltage drop in connection with HEI), but an HEI is designed to operate safely from 6-16 volts (and even 24 volts during winter time). During long cold cranking, the battery voltage will drop significantly (down to 6-8 volts), and it is not good for customer relations if the ignition system dropped out below 10-11 volts. There will generally be ample coil energy (for ignition) in the system even when the battery voltage drops to 6 volts.
Don't believe everything you read. You've been a member of this forum for enough years to have seen that some things in print are sheer BS. Quite often an old wive's tale gets circulated long enough to be accepted as fact. This is one of those.
I'm always up to learn something new. Anytime I can get a fact about something I do not know much about, electrical especially I'm always up for learning more about it.