I’ve had a few emails wondering where I was the past four or five days.

Well, I’ve been working on this pretty much non stop!

After working with Roger on another thread for the past few days I decided it was time someone put some good info out there on how to figure these darn things out.

At this link is a 15 page publication on how to test and diagnosis your fuel gauge problems. http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=276

Fuel Gauge Testing should not be easier for everyone. Please feel free to upload this publication, we are done with making changes to it!

Special thanks once again to:

DWnnchs who spent quite a bit of time working on this with me!

Now back to work . . .If you have any questions or suggestions please comment at will! While I really don’t want to edit it again, it is possible to make changes.

Enjoy,
.
Willcox Inc

 

Many thanks to you both. This is great stuff

JR

 

Not sure if this is the right place to ask, was either here, new thread, or on john roths' thread...

...but I printed out the instructions and went out to troubleshoot my fuel guage and I got hung up.

I was on the part checking the sending unit at the tank and mine has been pegged past full (3 o'clock) since I finished resto 2 yrs ago.

So, when I left the sending wire (tan) on, and grounded the black wire using a short jumper, switched ignition to ON, the guage actually went down to 3/4 where it should be...I thought I had the problem figured out.

However, when I tried to replicate it again, grounding the black wire to the same ground and other spots, I could not get the guage to move again....which is what's confusing me, as to how it worked and now it wont.

I rechecked the fuse, looks good.

I have a feeling i'm having issues with the contact at the wire and sending unit, but not sure how or why. I tried sandpaper to clean the sending unit contact, and took a small piece of wire to scratch up inside of the connector and that didn't help either. I did repaint my tank during the resto, but the terminals on the sending unit are clean.

By the way, what is a good way to clean inside little connectors like that? Or to verify your making a good connection?

I'm going back tomorrow with some better jumper wires and more electrical stuff to try some more things, but would appreciate any advice or ideas to try before I head out again.

Thanks again for the awesome write up!

 

So what is the gauge doing right now when you turn on the ignition switch? Where is the needle and is there movement? 3 o'clock, nothing, or empty?

Willcox

 

It just stays at 3 o'clock when ignition is turned to ON at the moment.

 

This may be a good sign! If it peg's and you see it, this means you have power to the gauge and no signal. Either the wire is broken from the sender to the dash, you have a bad sending unit, or the ground between the sending unit and the car is bad.

If you ground out the tan wire at the tank it should to to E. If you have good power and ground.

Page 15 on the pub. should show you exactly what you should do.

Willcox

 

If I have a reading of 70.6 ohms when touching the sending stud and the ground terminal, the sending unit is not defective, right? (as I have about 3/4 tank full) Or could the ground terminal be bad by itself? Or could me painting the whole tank screw something up with the ground?

I was unclear as to how you verify the ground wire has a good ground? (page 6). Do you put one probe into the ground connector and touch something grounded on the car with the other? Or what is best way?

The guage stays pegged past full with the key on or off also, just to clarify.

Thanks again

 

I think you've got it now.

Willcox