Is there a special tool required to brace the control arms in order to press the polly bushings in? I got the uppers in without any trouble, and the lowers have a double hole to go into, and they start to crush right away? What do i need to do?

 

Back up the outer flange of the A arm. Start bushing in till it starts to make contact with the inner flange.
Find a spacer to put between the outer and inner flange now back up the inner.and continue with pressing.
If bushings are put in the freezer overnight it will help

 

I spoke to Bairs this morning about some other stuff, and he said there is a special tool for this. So i will just take in to a local shop and pay to get it done.

 

Make sure the local shop has the tools or they will just bend the control arms. Many people have had their parts damaged by "professionals". I just made my own tools out of some tubing or exhaust pipe.

 

I made my own tool also and it really help in preventing damage to your lower a-arm. Pictures are in the 63 Corvette shop manual. That is where I made mine from. Did not take long once you get the pipe and depending on your "toolbox".

Watch out for "BUBBA". He's out there, willing to tell you what you want to hear...."I can do that fer ya, I've dun hundruds"
"DUB"

 

I went to the local steering shop, and the guy there owns a 77 vette, he know what he is doing. I will post pics when i get em back tomorrow.

 

Hi Grumpy, I'm sure glad that you are making progress on your project. I think that the people who are following your thread are looking to see some more pictures. Have a great one.. Gene

 

Well i think i am in trouble here. I picked up the control arms and it doesnt look like they used any lube between the shafts and the bushings? Is there any way to inject or load some lube in there ? What is the worst case scenario.

 

yup the "special tool" is a piece of black pipe with a notch running the length of it made by a mill. or that is how i made mine....

cheep, easy.

put the pipe in, use the bearing press to get both at the same side, pipe prevents it from collapsing.

 

Yes i know that now, lol but the problem i have is that they didnt lube the shaft and bushing? How can i get some in there now, or how long will it last without it.

 

Are these rubber or polyurethane bushings?
Polyurethane does require some lubrication between the bushing and the inner sleeve to prevent squeaking. The rubber does not because it is made together and you can not lube this area.
Now in regards to the end of the cross shaft and the inner surface area of the bushing sleeve, (where it slips over the shaft). I have seen and done it two ways. Lightly apply a protectant of some type to prevent further rusting and possible seizure. You can try to "wick" some very light oil in this area if you choose. PB Blaster, etc.
The inner sleeve does not turn in either design. When the bolt is tightened against teh cupped washer when the car is at PORPER RIDE HEIGHT. the inner sleeve is tightened against the cross shaft and the washer thus allowing the bushing to rotate slightly. That is why the area where the factory bushing contacated the shaft should heve been inspected due to possible grooving out and eating away material at this contact point in the shaft,and thus changing this dimension. Much like how the inside of your washers have teeth marks on them from the original inner bushing sleeve.
Often times for me if I am installing poly bushings it can cause a problem if the company does not give me enough length in the inner sleeve to adjust for this missing material.
Just make sure your cross shaft is rotated correctly before you bolt it in and TIGHTEN the four bolts at the bushings when your car is at proper ride height.
"DUB"

 

Thank you very much for the good reply.