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Hey guys,
I'm sorry but I couldn't find this simple answer in a search- I found way too much unrelated stuff.
What is the proper method for measuring chassis height? Is there a diagram somewhere?
Also, what's the baseline/OEM height using the proper method?
Like many of you, I'm not a fan of using the fender lip since there can be so much variability and the position of the fenders doesn't really tell you what the chassis is doing.
I've seen many references to the "AIM" but didn't know what it was. Is this the factory assembly manual?
If so, I must have overlooked that page.
That's correct. My AIM has a page with height measurements but they are from the ground to various points on the body, such as the wheel arches. I think you said earlier that you didn't want to use the body as a reference. The drawings on Barry's website are measured from the ground to various points on the frame.
but you will most likly find that the ride hight is high for these cars and a lot of us drop it 1-3" from stock... mine was so darn high I could have made it a 4*4.... have already dropped it 2" and am going to drope it another 1" this month.... then it should be right....
OK, what is the "right way" to drop the front end?
Mine has lost quite a bit of weight in the nose and sits too high now- even with the OEM springs. It kind of looks like a early 60's gasser... Is cutting the front springs really the right method?
The alignment shop says I have to change the lower ball joints anyway, and I think the bushings have seen better days, so this is the time to act...
That's correct. My AIM has a page with height measurements but they are from the ground to various points on the body, such as the wheel arches. I think you said earlier that you didn't want to use the body as a reference. The drawings on Barry's website are measured from the ground to various points on the frame.
Rick B.
The AIM for my '73 shows heights to various points on the frame, chassis, wheel center line, points on the suspension, etc. for various models and tires.
OK, what is the "right way" to drop the front end?
Mine has lost quite a bit of weight in the nose and sits too high now- even with the OEM springs. It kind of looks like a early 60's gasser... Is cutting the front springs really the right method?
The alignment shop says I have to change the lower ball joints anyway, and I think the bushings have seen better days, so this is the time to act...
ok, just went down this path about 6 months ago... here is my reccomendations if you are into handeling.
change the front springs to 550# VBP springs and cut an additional 1/4 to 1/2 circle of spring off, I cut 1/4 but still sits to high for my liking, also keep in mind that this spring already dropes the car 1"
Change all the a-arm bushings with poly, BUT make sure you GREESE the heck out of them with good long lasting greese such as synthetic marine greese.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
AIM factory ride heights...
...Z & D being the most accurate dimensions available for setting up suspension geometry, as variables such as non-original tires can significantly affect other measurements.
Factory recommended ride height specs for Trans AM/IMSA road race prep are Z=1" to 1.25", D=1.25", with full load of fuel and driver's weight aboard.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.