1971 Vette-
It started with hearing a repeating noise going 25+ mph and eventually got to a point where the car wouldn't move forward with automatic in Drive on a slight downgrade; not attempting to accelerate. If I let it sit for a few moments, noise goes away until I get it back up to 10 mph or more and then doesn't go away again until it sits. It tends to help if I go backwards as this doesn't cause as much noise. The best description I can give is it sounds like something is binding at the wheel and then lets loose over and over again. And if I bounce the rear up and down, there is no noise, so I doubt it is suspension. 99.9% sure there is no noise on the passenger side wheel.

I have no more than 500 miles on new brakes, calipers, rotors, rear leaf spring (fiberglass 330lb), fluid in differential, and polyurethane bushings at the ends of the leaf spring. I did not replace the E-Brake components nor the wheel bearings which is what I'm thinking where the problem lies. I will be pulling the wheel off for an in depth inspection in a couple hours, but I'd appreciate any ideas/suggestions to help me look in the right spot.

Since I've been working on the car for the last 4 years, I was really hoping I could make it through the summer without any more forced fixes, but apparently I'm back to it...

 

With any luck it will just be a spring or other part that came loose from the parking brake. PG.

 

It's funny that you mention spring, but that's kind of what it sounds/feels like. Starts to bind and then boing, it lets go.

 

Did you replace the flexible brake lines? When they get old they can collapse, preventing the fluid from releasing the caliper.

 

Forgot about that. Along with all the other brake parts, I installed new Stainless Steel Braided lines all around. I glanced at it earlier and I don't recall it binding in any way, but I'll look more closely as I'm heading out there now to see what I can see.

Thanks for the ideas. More to come as I hope I can identify this.

 

Anyone wanna buy a Corvette? Sell it to ya cheap. Works great minus left rear wheel bearing rumbling more than a 700lb man's stomach at a buffet line. All seriousness set aside... Okay fine, all JOKING set aside.

I pulled the wheel and rotor. Parking brake assembly looks fine. One of the push in springs appears a bit too far out, but I'm pretty sure it's not rubbing on the back of the lugs; hard to tell with the hub still on. With no rotor on there and putting the car in drive, I still have major grinding. Using the old screwdriver to the ear test, the bulk of the rumble is on the control arm right above the U-Joint at the wheel (U-Joints are new, however the bubble where the grease fitting goes is awfully close to the wheel hub bolt). I can't think of anything other than wheel bearing unless that U-Joint has been rubbing.

So... what now? I've taken off the U-Joints before but not the hub. I'll check the manuals I have, but if anyone has some hints, tips, or cheats on taking off the hub and bearings, I beg you share that knowledge. And yes, I will do both sides just in case anyone out there thinks I'm a total idiot.

Thank you and I will be consuming many beers tonight.

 

So your saying that you think that the trailing arm bearings have failed. That can happen with a 28 year old car. If you pull the trailing arms off yourself and bring them to someone qualified than your looking at about $600.00 in repairs. That should include new parking brake shoes and stainless steel parts and front TA bushings. You will still need new stainless steel shims and an alignment and another $100.00 for strut arm bushings and might as well get new shocks and spring bushings while your in there. Big boys have big and expensive toys! PG.

 

Already did some of the WIAI's you mention , so now I need to find someone to do the bearings. I have seen here on the forums creditable individuals who do these out of CT and FL. I'm on the west coast (Washington State). Are there any supporting vendors, reliable shops, etc. that are local to me? I'd hate to send these things across the nation and back.

 

Wheel bearing....got to be in the top 3 PITA jobs.

 

Find a shade tree older mechanic in your area that knows older cars. On my '70 rear wheel bearings and spindles were put on with the trailing arms attached. Do get new spindles as one of my old ones broke just taking it off. With new rear bearings/spindles it now feels like I have a new suspension.

 

We offer support housings already set up, ready to install with a guide and the tools to do it yourself. Links below...

http://www.duntovmotors.com/SpindlesParkingBrakes.htm

http://www.duntovmotors.com/RearSpindleSchool.htm

 

Don't know how far you are from Vancouver ,Canada but just talked to a shop there. They will do the bearings on the car for 3.5 hours labor a side plus parts. Thats $332 Canadian per side plus parts. I did mine myself but I had the use of the maintenance shop at the industrial plant I work at.

Dale

 

Sounds like you have it under control. Couple of things you should ask when speaking to a rebuilder if you don't do them yourself.

1- what bearings do they use, I recommend only USA Timken.
2-What type of grease, I no longer use or trust Mobil 1 for bearings
3-What prep is done to the arms,spacers,shims, spindles, supports
4- Type of bushings used, I've found many that are crap, use only one supplier now.
5-What is the bearing endplay set to and how is rotor runout corrected.

There are a LOT of rebuilders out there and the level of service and quality varies from terrible to excellant. Don't get sold on the hype or gimmicks, just the facts.

If you have any questions I can help you with just let me know. Good luck with your car.

 

Thanks for chiming in Gary! It was your very well documented post on how to rebuild these things that brought me to the realization that this is one of the few things where I'm out of my league. I am tempted to send these to you, but like I said, I'd prefer to keep these parts close. Who knows what could happen once UPS gets a hold of these things. The may end up in Mumbai.

In regards to your questions, what should I be looking for on #3 and which supplier do you use for #4? Send PM if more appropriate.

 

#3 will vary with the rebuilder. Some will wash and paint the parts, other do more. When I do them I spend a lot of time in the prep. Washing, blasting,etching, POR15,top coating. Some will powder coat but usually the cost is more and I haven't seen much difference in quality. The PC is good but so is a fully prepped arm. These are flat rate jobs, the faster done the more $$ made. That is not a concern of mine, when I do them I don't care how much time I put into them.If you find someone like that it will be a big benefit to you. Corners can be cut as with anything so ask the questions and follow through once you select someone.

#4 you can PM me on this. I'll go over your questions off line as some may think this is a solicitation- which it is not.

 

PM sent. Thanks Gary!

 

FWIW, I did this job myself this winter, and I'm glad I did it, but if I had to do it over I would send them to one of the accomplished rebuilders you have read about on the forum. Allow me to respectfully suggest that you spend the extra money on shipping insurance and send your arms off to one of the pros, or buy new loaded carriers from someone like Duntov and install them yourself. I mean no disrespect to anybody, but IMHO there's very little chance that a shop or mechanic who doesn't do this job on a regular basis has the tools, fixtures, or knows the techniques to do this job correctly. I'm sure the guys that do a set every day can do a good rebuild in 3.5 hours, but I can't imagine it. It probably took me that long to get the arms off the car and into the workshop!

Good luck

 

Thanks for the advice Rally. I have come to the realization that this is out of my league as I don't have the right tools/knowledge for the job.

 

71,
I, too, live in Washington state, but I removed my trailing arms and sent them all the way to Florida (Van Steel) to have completely restored. The before/after photos are remarkable. The work performed is absolute perfection.

For me, I gave them a call and they shipped me empty shipping boxes specifically designed for trailing arm assemblies, which I shipped back using UPS ground. It wasn't cheap, but you get good quality.

cheers,

 

To do my 70 I used Duntov Motors products - they sell kits or single products for Vettes.
Check their website for more details.