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almost time for ignition

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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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Default almost time for ignition

so the engine is back together and i am about ready to fire it up.

cam is in, new water pump is on, all belts and accessories are installed, radiator is in, full of water, full of oil, valves are adjusted, cut up valve covers are on so i can watch what is going on, distributer is in ( i am almost positive i have it at the #1 cylinder ) exhaust is hooked back up, carb is on, float bowls are half full. oil pump primer was run for 20 mins and i confirmed i have oil on both heads.

all that is left is hook up the battery, pray a little, and then fire it up.
i have a zip tie to hold the throttle ready as soon as it fires and i get it at 2500.

admittingly, i am nervous with that "i know i forgot something feeling"
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 04:08 PM
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Wait till you hear how 2500 sounds,makes you a bit nervous.
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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Keep a water hose handy to cool it down, leave t-stat out, a box fan will help keep air moving to keep headers from glowing as much.

Vary RPM during initial break in....

let 'er rip!


JIM
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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thermostat is out, i filled it with plain water.

it has been converted to an electric fan which i am going to have running as soon as it starts.

my plan is to start it at TDC, bring it up to rpm, and then use my dial back timing light to set the timing.

i am using cut out valve covers to try and cut back on some mess but i still anticipate some splash so both fenders are covered as well as cardboard everywhere.

whats the worst that can happen, wipe a lobe, spin a bearing, knock a rod (whatever that is)
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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I usually start with advanced timing. Almost to the point of kicking back. It helps it fire off easier/immediately. Then back it off after it's running. Doesn't matter as long as it fires instantly.

What cam did you go with?? Roller or flat tappet?

If you have set valves pretty close during build, I'd probably use stock covers for the run in part and after you have timing set, carb adjusted etc where you can idle it down nice and slow...THEN I'd do one side at a time with running adjustment of Hyd lifters so it wouldn't make such a big mess.

Actually, if you are careful you can set them with engine off and not have to go through the drama of the running engine. Running IS the best way though...just messy. Keep some spray on engine cleaner and handy to does it off quickly afterwards.




JIM

Last edited by 427Hotrod; Jun 27, 2009 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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Fire extinguisher and pray you never need it.
Good luck
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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car started. i got worried because it didnt want to crank to start with. it took a few tries to get it to fire. it took me giving it some idle screw in. once it fired i ran it to 2500 on the tach and started the clock.

3 minutes later i had to shut it down because the cut open valve covers were allowing too much oil to fling. its ok though because i didnt hear any valve chatter and at least it proves i have oil pressure.

once i get that fixed i should be able to restart.

most importantly, it started and ran smooth with no wierd clangy, thunky, or pingy noises. cam sounds great too.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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well damn damn double damn,
i guess i screwed something up after all.

i got it cranked back and everything looked great but then it started spewing oil out where the timing cover and the front of the oil pan go together. either that or from the front oil seal by the balancer. its all covered right now so i cant tell for sure.

ok not so hard if not annoying fix.

and it started overheating.
there is no thermostat in it but it built up a lot of pressure to the point where the upper hose was rock hard. thats not good. to me i suspect that there is a blockage with the new heads somewhere. damn damn double triple damn.

car ran for about 10 minutes total between 2k and 3k rpms before i noticed all of the problems and had to shut it down.

i am fed up and having it towed to a shop tomorrow that i trust.
should have taken it and the new parts there to start with.

i just hope that my cam is ok.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 09:29 PM
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ok, after calming down, cursing the wall a few times and bitching to the wife for a bit i started looking for issues.

i think that this may be my oil issue (hopefully)
the balancer is maybe 1/2 inch out from the timing cover. that is as far as i could get it to go on so i had thought it was far enough. i hope that this is the problem.
any ideas
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 09:40 PM
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That balancer does not look to bad. Maybe the oil pan seal or the balancer seals is not seated correctly.

The overheating may be timing off or mixture screws to lean causing it ot run hot. Happens all the time on first fired engines.

It is doubtful you have blockage in the heads.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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check the two bolt holes just to the left of the balancer when looking at it from the front. The top hole should have a short
(1/2") bolt installed otherwise oil will leak out all over. Maybe thats your problem.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
That balancer does not look to bad. Maybe the oil pan seal or the balancer seals is not seated correctly.

The overheating may be timing off or mixture screws to lean causing it ot run hot. Happens all the time on first fired engines.

It is doubtful you have blockage in the heads.

i am hoping something simple like that.

i checked timing.
with the vacuum advance hooked up it was 52 degrees at 2500 rpms.
i didnt get a chance to check it with the advance off.

here is why i think it might be the heads. the old headgasket blocked off a passage in the block to the old heads. the new edelbrock head gaskets with the edelbrock heads had a small hole where that block piece was in the old gasket.

i really really dont want to have to pull the head off again.
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Old Jun 28, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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ok update.

both heads had water in them checked by unbolting the plugs in the heads. however those might have been there from filling the water through the intake.

whatcha think?
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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decided to have the car towed to a shop today. i am tired of messing with it.
they backed it down my driveway and backwards up onto a flatbed.
then they got it on the flatbed the tail was pointed upwards.

i would estimate maybe 3 quarts of oil spilled out of the front of the engine onto the driveway.

something is definetly not right up front. i think i screwed up the front seal.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by baxsom
decided to have the car towed to a shop today. i am tired of messing with it.
they backed it down my driveway and backwards up onto a flatbed.
then they got it on the flatbed the tail was pointed upwards.

i would estimate maybe 3 quarts of oil spilled out of the front of the engine onto the driveway.

something is definetly not right up front. i think i screwed up the front seal.
There are 2 different front seals. A thick one and a thin one. You probably had the thin one installed when the thick one was needed. An easily over looked item. It has been done many times.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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how do you know the difference in the seals.
only one came in the timing gasket set.
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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 10:08 PM
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One is noticeably thicker than the other. Usually both come in a set.
I am referring to the pan seal.
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To almost time for ignition

Old Jun 30, 2009 | 04:58 AM
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pan seal is the one piece blue felpro one.
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 06:55 AM
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There are thick and thin 1 piece Fel Pro gaskets. It seems like you got a thin one when a thick one was needed. Check out these from Summit. As you can see there are a few different ones.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...20pan%20gasket
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Old Jun 30, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by baxsom
pan seal is the one piece blue felpro one.
oops sorry you have a big block
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