'77 Steering Knuckle Removal ??
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Gurley Alabama
'77 Steering Knuckle Removal ??
So, I've removed all the castle nuts holding the steering knuckle to the upper & lower ball joints (& have even removed the ones holding the ball joints to the A-arms & have removed the tie rod ends from the steering arms).....I've run pickle forks across both ball joints trying to break the steering knuckle loose from the upper & lower ball joints & A-arms to no avail...
Is there a secret to removing the steering knuckle that I don't know?
Is there a secret to removing the steering knuckle that I don't know?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
Put the castle nuts back on just enough so it doesn't fly when it comes apart then take a hammer and rap the knuckle where the ball joint shaft goes through it. That's how I remembered doing it and I just looked it up in my 76 shop manual and that's what it tells you to do.
It wasn't on a Corvette (I have never done a Corvette) but one of the vehicles I did it on had a ridge running top to bottom on knuckle where you were supposed to hit it.
My son was putting a lift kit on his Jeep and he tried to get a ball joint type connector off for about three hours. When I came home from going out to dinner with my wife he was really frustrated. I asked him for the hammer, took two swings and it popped loose. I went into the house without even getting dirty. He just had a blank look on his face.
It wasn't on a Corvette (I have never done a Corvette) but one of the vehicles I did it on had a ridge running top to bottom on knuckle where you were supposed to hit it.
My son was putting a lift kit on his Jeep and he tried to get a ball joint type connector off for about three hours. When I came home from going out to dinner with my wife he was really frustrated. I asked him for the hammer, took two swings and it popped loose. I went into the house without even getting dirty. He just had a blank look on his face.
Last edited by my 76 ray; Jul 1, 2009 at 07:35 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
No secret, you have it right. I would re-install the castle nuts loosely for safety's sake at this point. Do you have a spring compressor in there or a jack under the LCA? - don't get hurt.
I have success with the method you are using, maybe it needs more effort (bigger hammer). Alternatively you can strike the knuckle boss where the ball joint is sharply with a ballpeen, that should break it loose. When in doubt, hit it harder.
I have success with the method you are using, maybe it needs more effort (bigger hammer). Alternatively you can strike the knuckle boss where the ball joint is sharply with a ballpeen, that should break it loose. When in doubt, hit it harder.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Gurley Alabama
Originally Posted by my 76 ray
Put the castle nuts back on just enough so it doesn't fly when it comes apart then take a hammer and rap the knuckle where the ball joint shaft goes through it.
Originally Posted by SH-60B
Do you have a spring compressor in there or a jack under the LCA?
Tomorrow I'll remove the brake dust shield & try a BFH.
Oh, what's under the cover on the end of the upper A-arm - where the grease zirt is? I removed the 3 bolts going through the cover & the upper A-arm but the cover won't come off.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
You have to unload the spring from the joints. If the spring is pushing knuckle back onto the shaft you'll never get them to separate.
Use the weight of the spindle assembly to separate the joint.
Use the weight of the spindle assembly to separate the joint.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Gurley Alabama
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
I'll try. Jack the car up and put stands as far forward on the frame as possible (just behind front wheels). Remove the shock and remove the sway bar link.Remove outer tie rod end.Remove caliper.Loosen both upper and lower castle nuts leaving them on by only 5 threads.Front end is up and letting the lower arm hang unsupported, the upper arm will be sitting on the rubber bumper and the spring will be pushing down on the lower arm - this will have the upper joint trying to pull apart-tap the side of the upper knuckle with hammer and the joint will pop apart and spread limited by the nut. Now move your floor jack to the lower arm as far out as you can get. The weight of the knuckle assembly is now pushing down on the lower joint - tap the lower knuckle and the joint will pop apart limited by the lower nut. Remove the upper nut and lower and set knuckle assembly aside. Not sure at this point where your going but your spring is unconstrained and a little dangerous.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Gurley Alabama
Originally Posted by DWncchs
Jack the car up and put stands as far forward on the frame as possible (just behind front wheels). Remove the shock and remove the sway bar link.Remove outer tie rod end.Remove caliper.Loosen both upper and lower castle nuts leaving them on by only 5 threads.
Also, no body or engine on frame...its just a rolling chassis.
Originally Posted by DWncchs
Front end is up and letting the lower arm hang unsupported, the upper arm will be sitting on the rubber bumper and the spring will be pushing down on the lower arm
Originally Posted by DWncchs
Not sure at this point where your going but your spring is unconstrained and a little dangerous.
I'll give the rest of your technique a try tomorrow....thanks for explaining....knew there had to be a way to separate the ball joints from the knuckle so the spring can "snap" free.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Gurley Alabama
Yep, redoing all the bushings, brakes, etc. & replacing the springs while I'm tearing everything down.....before I'm finished with the chassis, it'll be refreshed for another 30+ years.
Here's the thread to my project: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-guy-with.html
Here's the thread to my project: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-guy-with.html
Last edited by autoist; Jul 1, 2009 at 10:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Gurley Alabama
Yep, am having fun...
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 38
From: Cedar,BC
That cover is the upper ball joint,it is spot welded to the housing and is the upper part of the socket that contains the "ball' of the stud,it comes out as an assembly after separating it from the spindle and cutting the rivets.When you are whacking at the spindle with your BFH it helps sometimes to have a helper hold a bigger BFH against the other side from where you intend to smack,it keeps more of the energy in the cast iron and helps pop the stud out.
As always be wary of that spring and where that lower arm is going to swing,sounds like you should be OK with the chains.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
From: Gurley Alabama
Those ball joints are STUCK! So, I just pulled the entire A-arm/steering knuckle & too it down to a friend's machine shop. The bushings have to be pressed out anyway so he'll disassemble the entire thing & I'll bring it home to clean up/repaint.
Tomorrow, the passenger side....hope it goes better!
Tomorrow, the passenger side....hope it goes better!
