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Took Stan's (Roadracevette) old #2 out today for its first taste of sunlight in almost 2 years. Ran great with the Ram Jet ZL-1 but as I turned for home something happened to the clutch...............car almost would not pull at all ........as if the clutch were slipping badly. Looked around and saw nothing broken with the linkage. Limped it back home and not sure what's going on. It's almost as if the clutch fork or some of the linkage was bent, but it's not. Adjusted the clutch to where it would normally engage with the pedal about an inch or two off the floor, but it still isn't right. Clutch will barely engage at all.
If you have pedal freeplay at the top and the linkage is not binding and you can get the clutch to disengage enough to shift without grinding then it sounds as if clutch is gone or the disc is binding on the input shaft.
Clutch disc and pressure plate were both new when I put the engine in a couple weeks ago and this is the first drive for it. Is it possible for a pressure plate to collapse? It's a Zoom street assembly, diaphragm type with short throwout bearing. First time I've experieinced this. I did notice that when the pedal was depressed it seemed to be in a bind somewhere.
Yes I've seen brand new clutches go bad. Hopefully the binding you felt is on the outside somewhere in the linkage. Ive seen the throwout bearing installed wrong and cause binding on the input snout of the trans.
Thanks Roger. I'll have to get it up on some stands and remove the bottom half of the scattershield to see what's going on. Pretty sure the TO brg is in correctly and the clutch linkage and fork are the same ones that Stan used when he had a smallblock in the car. Hopefully it's something "relatively simple" (if that's possible).
Clutch fork is binding against floorboard (I've never seen that!), actually stuck against it. Anyone ever experienced this problem, and if so, what was the resolution? Could the clutch rod be too long? Are there different length rods?
Motor mounts are indeed aftermarket, but engine doesn't seem to be out of normal position. Clutch fork is the same one used in this car with a small block engine.
After some thought (that was painful)..................IF............ ..IF I used a FLAT diaphragm pressure plate rather than a RAISED diaphragm one, in conjunction with a short TO bearing (rather than a mid length one), this may be my problem. Solution it seems would be to replace the TO brg with the mid length one. Now the problem is getting the trans slid back far enough. Is it possible?
Motor mounts are indeed aftermarket, but engine doesn't seem to be out of normal position. Clutch fork is the same one used in this car with a small block engine.
After some thought (that was painful)..................IF............ ..IF I used a FLAT diaphragm pressure plate rather than a RAISED diaphragm one, in conjunction with a short TO bearing (rather than a mid length one), this may be my problem. Solution it seems would be to replace the TO brg with the mid length one. Now the problem is getting the trans slid back far enough. Is it possible?
yes you can do it that way and would humbly suggest an adjustable pivot ball..they make life a whole lot easier...good luck.....
I do have a lakewood 2 piece bellhousing and used a new GM clutch pivot ball. I thought I saw a post somewhere here recently regarding 2 different length GM pivot ***** and if the wrong one was used (1.5 inches long) it caused problems with clutch geometry.
Now, back to my other question. If indeed I used the wrong TO brg, can the trans be slid back enough to replace the TO brg? Procedure?
Or...................would it be easier and just as effective to install the adjustable pivot ball?
Now I'm thinking it may be easier to just unbolt the engine, lift it and slide it forward a foot to install the correct TO brg,..... IF indeed that IS the problem.
Now I'm thinking it may be easier to just unbolt the engine, lift it and slide it forward a foot to install the correct TO brg,..... IF indeed that IS the problem.
Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Rex
Sliding the engine doesnt sound easier to me. I'm guessing but you probably have a Hurst shifter and getting the stock shifter out and back in is the hardest part of removing the trans.
I take the trans out and put it back in several times during a clutch replacement to make my checks before installing the the shifter.
One time in and out with the trans is "without the clutch installed" to check pilot bushing fit , alignment and drag.
Yes a Hurst shifter, but it has the removable handle. What about the drivehshaft........................enoug h room to slide it back in order to remove the trans?
Yes a Hurst shifter, but it has the removable handle. What about the drivehshaft........................enoug h room to slide it back in order to remove the trans?
remove the front yoke u bolts , slide the yoke forward so the drive shaft hangs down, remove the yoke.....remove the u bolts at the rear and slide the ds out the rear.....remove the shifter all the way....remove the crossmember bolts and tranny bolts.....support the bell with a jack...slide back the trany and twist it so it will wedge itself between the cross member and under body....this will give ample room for to brg inspection and or pivot ball replacement.....good luck......
yes you can do it that way and would humbly suggest an adjustable pivot ball..they make life a whole lot easier...good luck.....
I had the same problem with a Zoom setup in my car when I put the scatter shield in with the new big block. The fork would hit the floor when the pedal was push to the floor. Put an adjustable pivot ball in and set it out alittle more than what they tell you. Then use an adjustable linkage rod from the fork to the Zbar. I used one from an early vette but you can buy one from Mr. Gasket that has the correct end for a Vette.
One tip. Once you set the ball and know it;s right tack weld the jamb nut. They like to come lose.
Thanks for the info Brian. Even though I installed a 2 piece scattershield, I CANNOT get the bottom half off. I know that whatever the problem is I will still have to pull the trans, but I would at least like to get the bottom of the shield off so I can determine if the pressure plate has collapsed or if I just used the wrong TO brg. Looks like I'll be under the car tomorrow...............already got it up on stands.
OK...................here are some pics to hopefully help identify the root cause of my problem. I've never experienced a clutch problem of this type. First pic shows the damaged throwout bearing with part of the retaining collar broken (that's the "metallic pop" I heard on the test drive) that was found lying in the bottom of the bellhousing when removed. Other pics show the flywheel with raised diaphragm so I DID use the correct short TO brg. Other pics show parts of the clutch linkage that Stan used when he had a smallblock engine in the car.
I'm open to ANY and ALL suggestions. An adjustable clutch pivot ball is on order and should be here tomorrow.