Paul L

I wish to lubricate my tach cable and do not wish to fight with the end under the dash (back problem). Can I disconnect the cable at the distributor end and simply pull the inner cable out, lube, and then push it back in?

08vycpe

Yes. Here is a lube fitting for the tach and speedo. I did the tach and speedo cables in my '73 & the speedo cable in my '79. Don't over lube. One squeeze of the grease gun per foot of cable.

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...&searched=tach lube

jackson

No ... not likely.
On gage end there's probably a ferrule crimped onto core preventing pulling it out from dist end. Same goes for speedo core.

jptsetme

I have a '75, but I see that the page lists this lubricator as 62-74. Anyone use this successfully with a 75?

Paul L

Your tach is electric.

jptsetme

Thanks Paul.

So, electric tach, but still mechanical speedometer... I'm having periodic issues with both my speedometer and my tach. The speedometer only works when the car is warm (sits at zero until it warms up, and then only starts working after I have come to a stop.) It also wanders a lot once it's working and sometimes reads too slow. The tach only recently started misbehaving, but now it is wandering a bit as well (and seems to not like going below ~12,000).

It is possible that replacing the circuit board on the tach might cure the wandering problem? If so, I'll need to tear apart the console anyway, so no sense in buying a special tool to lube the speedo.

Paul L

On the tach, there is a lot of good info here. Drill down for 1975.

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005.../tach-lead.asp

Paul L

Someone must have an old tach cable and can tell me if the inner cable pulls out from the conduit?

eastltd

Paul,

Have you tried to pull the core out of your existing conduit? If not, let me know. I'll be pulling my gauge cluster out tonight and will be able to pull from the dash side to check.

Paul L

I disconnected the distributor end. The inner cable does not pull out. But that gave me an opportunity to clean out and lube the drive gear. As well I slipped a little WD40 down the inner cable from the top. Not too much so as to contaminate the tach head. So my original problem - squeak/squeak/squeak - is gone. And the tach works fine. But to be realistic that cable has to be replaced. The square end shows wear. So like most of these little tasks you have to bite the bullet in the end!

A8skyhawk

Removing the cable is not as hard as it seems... it can be done without removing the dash... you just need to recognize where it is under the dash and how to clip works holding it in place... You can reach up there with one hand and push the clip toward the cable and pull it free...then it pretty easily slides out through the firewall... Then again, I have small hands...

timemender

You need a helper to make tach & speedo cable removal (AND install) easier. Both cables (tach through 1974) are held onto the heads with a tension spring clip.

Reach up under the dash and feel the cable as it attaches to the head.

Press the “tab” of the spring clip. Press the tab towards the rear of the car to free the cable.

While the clip is depressed, have your helper in the engine compartment pull on the cable. (Make sure he/she is pulling on the correct cable)

When reinstalling the cable simply push the cable back onto the head, no need to depress the tab when installing. One person guides the cable onto the head while the helper in the engine compartment pushes the cable when instructed to do so.

0Willcox Corvette

Paul,

I can say as someone that has repaired hundreds of tach and speedometers, the worst thing you can do for your speedo/tach is to apply grease to the cable! I know, some of you have used grease and it made the cable quite and the speedo work. I’ll explain!

While it may offer a quick fix it will cause pre-mature failure in the first worm and magnet bushing. (Or sometimes called first worm bushing). This really is the worst possible thing you could do for your gauge and we all know how hard they are to remove. The bushing in all “W” series speedometer heads from 1968-1977 are an oyl-lite bushing and they are not grease friendly!

The cables are reverse wound so when you apply grease it will force this grease upward toward the bushing. Lint and any other form of dirt that kicks up in the car will collect in the first worm bushing and under the first worm and magnet! Grease is a can’t miss for early failure!

There are special lubricants which are graphite based for cable lubrication! You should only use this type of lubricant on the cable. Most local parts stores can get this for you. Go to my site and look it up. . . blow up the picture and see if someone up there has this stuff.

As far as getting grease to the entire length of the cable. . . Well you surely don’t need any special tool; the cable will pull the grease in as you pack it on the opposite end.

IMHO,

Willcox Inc.

Paul L

Many thanks. But as I said I am lazy. I did not grease. I just wicked down some WD40 from the top end. That is a band-aid solution. But it might make do for 2009.

But I may just order a new one from Willcox when the order is large enough to justify the shipping charges/brokerage fees to Canada. My usual rant . Wish you folks had a PST/GST agreement with the Canadian Government like Corvette Central. Then no FedEx/UPS brokerage fees apply. Alternatively USPS will do.

0Willcox Corvette

Paul,

When the items ship from here they go out USPS as antique auto parts. Do they still charge you for this?

Willcox

Paul L

No, the Post Office does not impose a fee. Which is nice but international post is slow (7-10 days). At times I have gone with courier expedited air (e.g. UPS, very expensive) when a part is crucial to get a job done. One example was the heater core last summer. I of course broke the gauge bezel in the usual spot!! I dearly wanted to finish the job for an upcoming show, one of my favourites held only once a year. A new one came in three days and I caught the show. But for something like a tach cable air parcel post is fine.

0Willcox Corvette

We can do this! You just request USPS APP and we should be able to handle this for you.

Willcox

Paul L

See e-mail.

0Willcox Corvette

Got it Paul, Looks like Tommy has you covered.

You need me sometimes just email me direct at WillcoxCustomerService@WillcoxCorvette.c om. I'll be here.

Willcox

langlj00

Paul,
In answer to your question:
The standard fit cable assembly for a '74 will not pull out from the distributor end. There is a ferrul or bush at the tach. end that stops it pulling out.

However, if you follow the instructions above about disconnecting it, then you can pull out the inner (from the tach. end) - I wiped mine down with oil to lube it and then assembled it the other way around, so that I can pull it out from the engine side whenever I feel the need. (That said, that was 5 years ago, and I haven't looked at it since) - This took all the bounce out of the needle. Works just fine.

1974 Auto - Coupe

Jeremy.