Rear differential fluid question.
For limited-slip carriers, there's a "zone" between limited slip effectiveness and driveability. Through R&D, the engineers know how to achieve this "zone". In other words, with the incorrect lube, your carrier could lose it's positration effectiveness, or you could encounter chatter and bumping.
If you use a non-recommended recipe you need to test, with a torque wrench, on the end of a wheel, for the correct "slippage". I don't recall what the specs are; perhaps someone can provide it. Even if you're within tolerance, you still risk chatter from incompatibilty with the clutches.
Some newer cars recommend synthetics for their carriers; newer Vipors for instance. But you can rest assured, the engineers, through R&D, designed the clutches for use with synthetics.
I'm sure the shareholders of Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc, would like me to purchase as much product as possible, but I'll take the advice of the engineers who design the carriers, R&D them, and study their failures (warranty claims).
Anybody want to guess how many trillions of trouble-free miles have been driven on how many millions of limited-slip carriers using the recommended mineral lube and additive?
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Jul 9, 2009 at 11:44 AM.
For limited-slip carriers, there's a "zone" between limited slip effectiveness and driveability. Through R&D, the engineers know how to achieve this "zone". In other words, with the incorrect lube, your carrier could lose it's positration effectiveness, or you could encounter chatter and bumping.
For all we know, Eaton just doesn't want to spend the time or money to extensively test all the synthetics on the market. I can see why when they already know what works well. Since they know what's worked for almost 50 years - that's all they need to reccomend in order to save a bundle on more "silly" R&D to test for synthetic compatability.
On the other hand.. the synthetic makers *have* to test thier stuff with common rear ends including limited slip. But can we trust them with thier great claims, when ultimately they just want to sell the product?
The bottom line is that a anecdotal evidence gathered here, once filtered and compiled, is worth just as much as company claims, counterclaims, and in the case of Eaton - the lack of a claim.
I'll wager the drivers here have compiled a lot more hours "testing" synthetic gear-lube than anyone at Eaton ever did. That's why I aked my question here.. to get honest reports and opinions from people without a dog in the race at all.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 9, 2009 at 12:00 PM.
But, if you wish to instead follow the advice of a few from these forums and pour a synthetic into your differential, one of three things will happen:
1) It will run great
2) It will bump and chatter
3) Limited-slip effectiveness will be reduced.
If you go with the recommendation of the engineers at Eaton (mineral gear oil and the additive) one of one thing will happen:
1) It will run great
If synthetics; ran cooler, perfomed better, extended the life of the carrier, increased change intervals, increased gas mileage (all marketing promises from the sellers of synthetics), AND reduced warranty claims, Eaton would recommend their use. But they don't. Instead, they go out of their way to tell us to not use them. Think about it.
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Jul 9, 2009 at 03:53 PM.
Almost all manufactures use standardized phrases to convey instructions using the minimum number of words.
'We do not recommend synthetic oil', or
'-IMPORTANT LUBRICANT NOTE-
The Auburn Gear limited-slip differential design has been extensively tested with high quality non-synthetic 80W90 hypoid oils treated with GM or Ford friction additives (3 oz. of additive will treat 1 quart of oil). To avoid differential clutch chatter (noise) and for optimum performance, use the oil and additive described above. Use of other additive and oil types may cause differential clutch chatter.'
are excellent examples of standard terminology. Your conspiracy theories against OEMs is insulting and displays lack of knowledge regarding common industry practice.
There again, we all enjoy episodes of 'Hold ma beer and watch this' on Youtube.
But, if you wish to instead follow the advice of a few from these forums and pour a synthetic into your differential, one of three things will happen:
1) It will run great
2) It will bump and chatter
3) Limited-slip effectiveness will be reduced.
If you go with the recommendation of the engineers at Eaton (mineral gear oil and the additive) one of one thing will happen:
1) It will run great
If synthetics; ran cooler, perfomed better, extended the life of the carrier, increased change intervals, increased gas mileage, AND reduced warranty claims, Eaton would recommend their use. But they don't. Instead, they go out of their way to tell us to not use them. Think about it.
Synthetic lube with Posi additive = 1) It will run great
Period.
It WILL NOT destroy your gears!!!
And on counterpoint again... the burden of proof is on the makers of the new synthetics to do *all* the testing to prove thier stuff works as well or better than the incumbant method. Eaton can (if they wish) spend not one dime of R&D on "synthetic nonsence" and say... "we already know what works and that's what we strongly reccomend". Don't underestimate the power of "default" to set and maintain a standard. We already have a winning default standard in this case.
As for increased chatter (or conversely decreased clutch effectiveness)
that's my true and BIG area of concern. So far I've seen NO DATA as to how synthetics react with a limited slip clutch. For that matter I'm not even sure if it would "hurt" or "help" to add a bottle of the limited slip additive to a synthetic that claims to be able to do it already - and no one here has really addressed that finer point - yet.
I totally agree with you that using the same stuff that we've been using for 40+ years is the only "safe" way to go. But I still know NOTHING about the effectiveness of the newer products. The newer products claim "the moon and the stars", and Eaton on thier website hasn't shown me any test data or explained anything.
-W
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I'll go as far as to say that even if they found that the new stuff seemed to work OK - it would take a substantial increase in performance or longevity before they would greenlight a new guy. In big business it's safer to play it safe and fall back on history. And 50 years of lubricant history has defined for them what "safe" is. It's not a conspiracy theory, it's "good business" to "stick with what works" and "play it safe".
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 9, 2009 at 03:07 PM.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Jul 9, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
I'll go as far as to say that even if they found that the new stuff seemed to work OK - it would take a substantial increase in performance or longevity before they would greenlight a new guy. In big business it's safer to play it safe and fall back on history. And 50 years of lubricant history has defined for them what "safe" is. It's not a conspiracy theory, it's "good business" to "stick with what works" and "play it safe".
-W
Also,..
Why play chemist with synthetics and additives?
How much additive is needed with a synthetic?
If the additive is already in a quart of synthetic how do you know it's the right dose?
What data do you possess that show synthetics to be compatible with the clutches in our Eaton Posi's?
In fact, I challenge anybody to go onto the world wide web and find a credible recommendation that counters this from the Eaton engineers:
"Eaton Posi units perform best when using GL4 (or better) mineral/petroleum based gear oil. A four ounce bottle of friction additive/modifier is also necessary for optimum performance."
...or something that challenges the engineers' recommendations from Auburn and Dana/Spicer which have similar verbiage in their service manauls (posted above).
Marketing materials from the sellers of synthetics would not be considered credible.
Any takers?
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; Jul 9, 2009 at 03:48 PM.
How much additive is needed with a synthetic?
If the additive is already in a quart of synthetic how do you know it's the right dose?
What data do you possess that show synthetics to be compatible with the clutches in our Eaton Posi's?
We aren't at cross purposes - I'm saying "we don't know anything about synthetics and can't rely on any companies (including Eaton) to give us real data.
I further state that in the absence of any hard data... only a preponderance of anecdotal evidence gathered *here* will help determine if synthetics are really OK - not better - just as acceptable perhaps.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 9, 2009 at 05:24 PM.
You'd rely on anectdotal evidence from a few blokes on the internet instead of the engineers at Eaton and GM, and all their R&D? I'm guessing these two groups of engineers were not at the bottom of their class.
You'd rely on anectdotal evidence from a few blokes on the internet instead of the engineers at Eaton and GM, and all their R&D? I'm guessing these two groups of engineers were not at the bottom of their class.
Further, I have shown a financial motive for Eaton to *not* test at all and just rely on the 50 years experience to "stick with what works". Telliong people to do what they always did is safe - and free.
I have seen only claims and not tests from the synthetic makers as well - they also have a financial motive.
Therefore... considering that this is the largest gathering of Corvette owners on the web - I submit to you that statistics gathered here, from a lot more than a "few" blokes, if compiled long enough, and filtered for people with obvious agendas, would provide more raw data than iether Eaton or Mobil1 have provided us with to date.
I'm sitting here with a case of free synthetic and still debating if I want to be a guinnie pig or not. I'm pretty sure I'll use it in the tranny, it's the clutch packs that concern me is all.
-W
Last edited by Clams Canino; Jul 9, 2009 at 05:22 PM.
Yeah I know it WAS whale oil back in the day. The limited slip additive that GM sells is something else now...that is for sure. SAVE THE WHALES! I do not have the part number handy right now becasue I am not at work. BUT I do know it is the ONLY additive I use when doing rear diffs. No crap out of a tube or something somebody tries to tell me is great. Just 90w and GM's additive....that's all. But to each his/her own.
On a different note:
Heck I was once told...a long time ago...you can fill it with sawdust and throw in a few banana peels to keep things quiet......for a while. I PERSONALLY do not recommend that.
"DUB"















