Thanks for all the advice. Trailing Arms is what I was refering to. Looks like I'll have to tackle this job myself..... $2G's is way to much for me to cough up all at once. If I take my time, plus refer to the technical advise of you guys on the forum I think I'll be able to accomplish this feat.

While preparing to tear in to my rear brakes to rebuild the parking brakes I noticed that the rear spindle arms look pretty bad. The shims appear to be completely rusted out. I would like to know how costly and difficult is it to completely rebuild the rear spindle? Is this something that I can do in my work shop. I'm pretty handy at working on my vette. But don't want to get in over my head. Completely rebuilt the front end with no problems. Would like to accomplish this before spring.
Thanks for any advice.


[Modified by 7Roadster5, 10:13 PM 2/14/2002]

 

I was at my parents when I broke a spindle. My father wouldn't let me work on it at his house, but would pay to have it fixed. It cost him $2,000 which included rebuilding the other spindle at the same time. Be sure to install new bearings.

Also...something that the shop didn't do and my father wouldn't pay for...BE SURE TO REBUILD YOUR HALF SHAFT U-JOINTS! I'll need to get back into the rear sometime soon to rebuild or replace my half shaft U-joints...not sure if I will need to remove the control arms or not, but it would have been nice to replace them while the shop had them out.

You might want to look into getting some larger spindles...I think the stock ones are WAY too small for 400+ HP. Not sure about how much that will cost, but it would be less expensive than replacing the rear 1/4 of the car if the wheel decides to rip itself off while going 100.

 

You might consider getting new spindle assemblies. I've been running a hardened set of spindles from VettePartsOnline for some time with no problems. All you do is bolt them in. By the way, after swapping my stock spindles out at 180K miles, I broke a stock replacement set from Van Steel. Hardened is worth the extra $$.

As long as you're in there, you might consider getting a set of offset trailing arms (THOSE are something Van Steel builds very well) complete with new poly bushings, along with a set of stainless shims.

Ditto on the U-joints. Make sure and get Spicer NON-cross drilled from GM.

Good luck.

-Noel

 

Sounds like the T arms you're talking about, the spindles are part of the arms. I just finished rebuilding the right side on mine, but the parking brakes are still giving me a problem with drag.
Do you have a press, good tools,very good measurement tools, and a GM manual? These are some of the things you'll need. Check the archives for recent posts about rebuilding the rear bearings and if you still think you're going to do it, ask more ?? here.
I don't think it was a hard job but you do need the tools.
gary

 

Hi
The very first tool that is absolutely necsesary, is a spindle Knock out tool that threads onto the spindle in such a way that the spindle threads w"ont
get damaged when you try and I emphasize try to knock the spindle out,
I just had mine apart today and I was beating on that spindle with a sledge
for an hour before it finally came off! They make a press tool but the knockout tool is much less around $20.00. The next problem is getting the bearing on the lug side of the spindle off, you have to find a local machine shop capable of pressing this off or buy the tool it is I think about $100.00,
I could not figure any other way to get this thing off without damaging the spindle. If this is"nt enough misery to go through, the next part will put you over the edge! There are about 9 different size shims that are sized in increments of .003", and you have to pick the one you think maybe close
to allow .001"-.008" endplay when you have everything back together,
and if you d"ont get it right the first time then you have to disassemble the
spindle again and try the next thickest or thinner shim until you get the
correct endplay. The endplay is checked with a dial indicator that has to be fastened to the trailing arm and the indicator rest on the inside end of the spindle. I did this job in 3 hours today but it is a frustrating task!
However if you are patient and at least have the tools I mentioned above
you can do it at home.
Just my 2 cents worth, maybe others have better tricks to make it go easier but this is how it has always worked out for me!
SPOKE-

 

The undersized "dummy" set-up tool is very helpful in setting up end play, you just slide bearings on & off, instead of pressing,'till you get the play(spacer) right, then assemble one time on the real spindle.

Hope this helps :chevy

 

Sounds like you're describing the trailing arms (attachment point to the frame.) You can't see the spacing shims inside the spindle carrier. If it's very rusty, you may also want to pay attention to the frame pocket where the T/A pivots, as this is a popular rust-out area. Easiest thing is to pull the T/A's and send them off to a rebuild house (Bair's, Van Steel, etc. do a search). If you're inclined to work on them yourself, you will need some special tools. You will either have to buy (or make) a tool to remove the shaft that the shock bolts to (can't remember it's proper name right now - not enough coffee yet) just to remove the T/A's yourself anyway.

Try a search of the archives as most people have related their tales of woe on the forum. It might be a piece of cake, or...

 

I wish the spindle shims were in .003 increments... the number is .006.

The rusty shims are the rear toe in/out alignment shims. These are available in stainless.

The .001 to .008 GM number is for spindle endplay. You can feel noticeable wobble at .0035 which translates to unwanted camber variation. I set them at .0015 using a custom jig... as does Gary. I threw the GM spec out the window 25 years ago.
Contrary to rumor, spindle bearing shims are not available in .001. I contacted many vendors and axle shops, but nobody has them. To get .0015, unless you're lucky with a stock shim, you must cut a shim down.... this is tough to do in your garage. I use a SIOUX valve facing machine to parallel grind the shims... but a piece of 1/2 inch glass and wet/dry paper works too. Yes, this may remove surface hardening, but I can live with that to get .0015. (I only assume they are surface hardened, I have found no proof of this)

This job can be done in your garage with the right tools, but there is a lot of room for a "bubba" result.

For example, the spindle knocker tool can be used to knock them out SOMETIMES. If the spindle is scored by previous poorly done repairs, the bearing inner race can hang up pretty good... the knocker tool will not work in this case.... you need a press. And... never "knock" the bearings back on...this damages them.

Another example... the surface variation on the spindle bearing setup tool is a lot. If you do not take dial indicator readings at exactly the same spot on the tool, you will get a bogus result.

The Kent-Moore tool in the GM manuals will usually bend the sheet metal of the trailing arm instead of pushing the spindle out. Instead, I remove the 4 bolts holding the spindle support to the arm and insert threaded rod/nuts. Then I use a press to press out the spindle.

I could go on... but I'm boring me.

 

Rockn-Roll-I just did this with the help of Tom and his press to get the old ones out and press the new ones in. Good news is it's very easy since you just have to get the rear of the car up on jackstands and don't have to remove anything but the spare tire carrier for access and the halfshafts themselves. I removed mine and painted them with POR-15 silver and they came out real nice; put the car in and out of gear so that I could rotate the wheels and torque the bolts per the AIM. Also, don't forget the french locks where the shafts bolt to the spindles at the trailing arms. They are still available from GM and are cheap for a bag of 5. Good luck!

 

When I bought my vette the previous owner had his rear spindles rebuilt and the mechanic used no spacer and shims. He just tightened the spindle nut untill all the play was out then installed the cotterpin. I took them apart and found this.
I don't see why it is such and expensive job. Invest some of the money in tools and do it yourself.
The spindle set up tool is very useful. The remove a old bearing from a shaft destroy the cage then use a $20 air cut off tool and wheel to split the bearing. Did 2 last night without any problem. Some use a torch to heat the bearing after the rolls are out then quench it . The race usually comes off easy.
For $2000 you can buy alot of tools and afford to spend the time.