Changing Rockers to rollers






or these....
Has anyone done this? And if so, is it a swap-out from the stamped rockers.....any tricks or problems? Increase in HP? Any difference between Summit Racing and Comps?
Thanks!
In my experience at your power level and RPM range there are zero benefits. If you're looking for more power, seek elsewhere.
I'm sure this will start a huge debate about roller tips having "less friction", roller rockers adding HP, etc. and follow the predictable pattern we've all come to know and love
or these....
Has anyone done this? And if so, is it a swap-out from the stamped rockers.....any tricks or problems? Increase in HP? Any difference between Summit Racing and Comps?
Thanks!






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http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e.../photo_07.html
Leave the rockers alone; others explained why.
It already has a decent cam but low compression. Vortec heads will wake it up. Maybe 350HO would've been better choice. Save up for vortec head & intake swap. Otherwise, leave it alone & drive & enjoy.





Last edited by 63mako; Jul 15, 2009 at 05:06 PM.
Yes, a quality aftermarket stamped-steel rocker is going to be dead-on in terms of ratio and it is going to be stiffer. A quality aftermarket roller-tip is going to be even stiffer, and a full roller even stiffer than that. When we start turning serious RPM (6,000+ continuous), start pushing against serious valvespring pressure (140#+ with roller cams) and riding steep lobe ramps - valvetrain stiffness, friction and weight starts being a real issue as we try to keep the valvetrain stable at the limits of the engine's abilities.
But let's get real - the 350/290's valve springs (94666580) are 90# at installed height, and the HP peak is at 5250 RPM!
The LT4 is making 330HP at 5800 RPM with a 6300 RPM redline, so there's just no comparison. It's worth noting that the LT1 had stamped-steel rockers, and the ONLY reason they were changed in the LT4 was that there were galling issues....at 6300 RPM! And note that this is with a fairly steep hydraulic roller cam.Hardened pushrods are used with guideplates; they aren't any more stiff. If stiffer pushrods are needed, then the diameter is increased.
There's good advice for finding power on the thread - headers would be a definite first, followed IMHO by a solid tune. A top with cam would be next, but I'd stay on the low end of the price spectrum given the cast crank; the Vortec suggestion would be mine as well. Better, in the end I think, to simply enjoy the engine the way it is. It's a pretty sweet 350
Last edited by billla; Jul 15, 2009 at 05:48 PM.
A good boost in power on a 290 hp engine is 8 to 12 in my opinion. It's worth a tenth in the 1/4 mile - and it's your choice to do it or not do it. Headers are a given, but when you get done with the quick and easy stuff like exhaust and timing curve and carb jetting and are looking for something to compliment it all, why not do the rockers and push rods? On a little Chevy it's less than $200 and a couple hours work. And really, why even debate this, it has been proven many times on a dyno that the rockers and push rods will increase power even at 5,000 RPM.
Hardened push rods are stiffer than the stock ones. Increased diameter would be one way to increase the strength, but so is a stronger material.
It looks like your point is that there little to no gain in power. I say there is a gain and it's worth the price.
Let's leave it at that.

"Worst devised." Hmm. What were those GM engineers thinking making 90 million or so engines over 50 years with this design and fostering that junk on us?


But I think a simple request would be posting a a single link (of the "many times") to a dyno test where this is 8-12 HP is "proven" for a GEN I, hydraulic flat-tappet cam engine making < 1 HP/CID?










