Front End Wondering
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Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
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Front End Wondering
My car is floating real bad when taking left-hand, long sweeping turns such as going on an on-ramp to the freeway.. I put pressure on the wheel as I'm turning but it wants to float back the other way on me.. Its only doing this on left-had sweeping turns, not right-hand. This morning I lifted the front tires off the ground and tried pushing/pulling on each tires from side-to-sides and top/bottom but I cant feel any play or slop anywhere.. Is this something I can troubleshoot myself or do I need to take it to a shop because I don't have a clue where this issue is? I would much rather replace the parts myself and then take it in for the final alignment.
Last night, even though I knew this problem existed, I did a stupid full throttle run from 0-120mph with the new motor (452hp) and about lost it at the top end when the road started to tilt slightly.. I think I need to go back to that road today and look for my nutz because that was one hairy experience
Thanks for any help!
Last night, even though I knew this problem existed, I did a stupid full throttle run from 0-120mph with the new motor (452hp) and about lost it at the top end when the road started to tilt slightly.. I think I need to go back to that road today and look for my nutz because that was one hairy experience
Thanks for any help!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,214
Likes: 4,037
From: Connecticut, USA
1-alignment
2- CV balance ( if PS)
3 Box lash and Preload
4 suspension parts
Any or all but look at the balance first. Our 75 was wadering to the right on the highway.
The CV balance was off, balanced it,then had it aligned, tracks straight now. The box I blueprinted and the front end is all new MOOG.
2- CV balance ( if PS)
3 Box lash and Preload
4 suspension parts
Any or all but look at the balance first. Our 75 was wadering to the right on the highway.
The CV balance was off, balanced it,then had it aligned, tracks straight now. The box I blueprinted and the front end is all new MOOG.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 703
Likes: 2
1-alignment
2- CV balance ( if PS)
3 Box lash and Preload
4 suspension parts
Any or all but look at the balance first. Our 75 was wadering to the right on the highway.
The CV balance was off, balanced it,then had it aligned, tracks straight now. The box I blueprinted and the front end is all new MOOG.
2- CV balance ( if PS)
3 Box lash and Preload
4 suspension parts
Any or all but look at the balance first. Our 75 was wadering to the right on the highway.
The CV balance was off, balanced it,then had it aligned, tracks straight now. The box I blueprinted and the front end is all new MOOG.
Last edited by Fishndude; Jul 22, 2009 at 02:08 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Lewisburg WV
Rich...I had a similar problem in my 79. What is turned out to be was the rear stub axle coming out of the differential. The stub axle had lost the retainer clip inside the differential allowing the rear wheel to move dramatically on a curve. Jack your car up using the rear part of the frame. Pull on top of the rear tire and watch to see if the stub axle moves in and out of the differential. It shouldn't move more than a few thousands on an inch.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,214
Likes: 4,037
From: Connecticut, USA
FYI:
Endplay in stock side yokes in an untouched original car will be far more then a few thousands, anywhere from 030-100+. The esrlier low mileage cars,pre 72 may still have 010-020 but a lot of that is in the posi setup. Some rebuilders ship rebuilt diffs back to people with this much endplay and call it good.
A custom built and machined setup will have 005-010" max endplay in them.
Endplay in stock side yokes in an untouched original car will be far more then a few thousands, anywhere from 030-100+. The esrlier low mileage cars,pre 72 may still have 010-020 but a lot of that is in the posi setup. Some rebuilders ship rebuilt diffs back to people with this much endplay and call it good.
A custom built and machined setup will have 005-010" max endplay in them.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
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Likes: 2
Rich...I had a similar problem in my 79. What is turned out to be was the rear stub axle coming out of the differential. The stub axle had lost the retainer clip inside the differential allowing the rear wheel to move dramatically on a curve. Jack your car up using the rear part of the frame. Pull on top of the rear tire and watch to see if the stub axle moves in and out of the differential. It shouldn't move more than a few thousands on an inch.
I just jacked up each side in the rear and checked for play but its pretty darn solid.. There was a tad bit of play in the spindle but it was very minor and equal on both sides. Tomorrow I will try balancing the CV and then go from there. I know I need an alighnment after dropping the front end but right now both tires are sitting pretty equal so I cant see why that would only cause a drift to one side. The nice thing about this old car is that it has less rust than my new truck and removing bolts on this thing is a mechanics dream
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 3
From: Charlotte North Carolina 704-394-5150
1-alignment
2- CV balance ( if PS)
3 Box lash and Preload
4 suspension parts
Any or all but look at the balance first. Our 75 was wadering to the right on the highway.
The CV balance was off, balanced it,then had it aligned, tracks straight now. The box I blueprinted and the front end is all new MOOG.
2- CV balance ( if PS)
3 Box lash and Preload
4 suspension parts
Any or all but look at the balance first. Our 75 was wadering to the right on the highway.
The CV balance was off, balanced it,then had it aligned, tracks straight now. The box I blueprinted and the front end is all new MOOG.
I would have to say I bet it is rear suspension related, (worn or mis-aligned parts) The "old steering wheel in the rear thing". But lets hope not.
It is easy to check your CV. Just disconnect thehaft of the cylinder and move it to center travel and crank the car. If it moves, the CV needs adjusting.
Make sure that you have no cracks or tears in the steel where the lower a-arm mounts are welded to the cradle.
GOOD LUCK and keep us updated with your success.
"DUB"
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Thread Starter
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Today I found 2 issues while climbing around under the car getting ready to balance the CV.
1. With the car running, the CV knuckle still has alot of play in it so this must be the point where all my play is.. I just ordered a new CV so there is no sense trying to balance this one..
2. My power steering assist cylinder is touching my new headers at a certain point when turning the wheel (see below picture).. Any recommendations on what do here? I dont want to dimple the header but it seems there is alot of meat on the cylinder, can I grind a little off? It just barley touches the header so maybe remove .100? I have solid engine and trans mounts so I dont think I would have any motor flex that would make it touch any worse...
1. With the car running, the CV knuckle still has alot of play in it so this must be the point where all my play is.. I just ordered a new CV so there is no sense trying to balance this one..
2. My power steering assist cylinder is touching my new headers at a certain point when turning the wheel (see below picture).. Any recommendations on what do here? I dont want to dimple the header but it seems there is alot of meat on the cylinder, can I grind a little off? It just barley touches the header so maybe remove .100? I have solid engine and trans mounts so I dont think I would have any motor flex that would make it touch any worse...
