79 wont start...
Thread Starter
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
79 wont start...
Hey everyone I am new to the forum... I have a stock 1979 corvette and it just stop running... I had a new distributor installed about 5 months ago and it ran great, but after my last trip walmart it would not want to start it will crank but not start? People have told me its the spark plugs I am just not sure... any suggestion? Appreciate all your help thanks!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
Possible causes : No fuel or no ignition :
Check fuel level in the carb fuel bowls. If not OK, look for clogged fuel filter or fuel line or defective fuel pump ( or empty fuel tank
).
If OK, remove a spark plug wire, use some adhesive tape and stick the extremity of the wire at a short distance from a grounded metal part of the engine but without touching it.
About 1/4 to 1/2" is OK. Have someone crank the engine and see if you get a visible spark jumping from the wire.
Don't do this with the carb open !!!
If OK, remove one ( or more ) spark plug to see if it's not fouled or wet.
Check fuel level in the carb fuel bowls. If not OK, look for clogged fuel filter or fuel line or defective fuel pump ( or empty fuel tank
).If OK, remove a spark plug wire, use some adhesive tape and stick the extremity of the wire at a short distance from a grounded metal part of the engine but without touching it.
About 1/4 to 1/2" is OK. Have someone crank the engine and see if you get a visible spark jumping from the wire.
Don't do this with the carb open !!!
If OK, remove one ( or more ) spark plug to see if it's not fouled or wet.
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Jul 25, 2009 at 04:52 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
Many infos here :
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-and-tips.html
and here :
http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm ( even if this page is a little more Holley oriented )
Manuals here :
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/R...QJet/index.htm
You can also make a search on this forum with the key words "Q-jet" or "quadrajet" or "adjust float level"
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-and-tips.html
and here :
http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm ( even if this page is a little more Holley oriented )
Manuals here :
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/R...QJet/index.htm
You can also make a search on this forum with the key words "Q-jet" or "quadrajet" or "adjust float level"
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Jul 25, 2009 at 04:22 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
All right ! I made part of the job for you :
This is a quote ( Lars Grimsrud ) :
"You have to pull the top of the carb off to set the float level. With the top removed, remove the big phenolic spacer that covers the area around the needle/seat. Hold the float hinge clip firmly seated and push down lightly on the float where it contacts the needle. Measure from the top of the float bowl to the top of the float at the rear edge of the float. Float level should be .375” for a street-driven car using a 1968 – 1974 carb; you can run it at .250” for racing. Early Q-Jets (1968-1972) can be successfully run on the street with the high float level, but you may see some fuel saturation of the air horn gasket with associated gas fumes. Later carbs (1975 and newer) do not run well in street applications with the high float level – run the 1975 + carbs at .420” on the float level. Adjust the float level by removing the float and bending its lever arm. Never raise the float level by forcing the float against the needle/seat to bend it – this will damage the needle."
This is a quote ( Lars Grimsrud ) :
"You have to pull the top of the carb off to set the float level. With the top removed, remove the big phenolic spacer that covers the area around the needle/seat. Hold the float hinge clip firmly seated and push down lightly on the float where it contacts the needle. Measure from the top of the float bowl to the top of the float at the rear edge of the float. Float level should be .375” for a street-driven car using a 1968 – 1974 carb; you can run it at .250” for racing. Early Q-Jets (1968-1972) can be successfully run on the street with the high float level, but you may see some fuel saturation of the air horn gasket with associated gas fumes. Later carbs (1975 and newer) do not run well in street applications with the high float level – run the 1975 + carbs at .420” on the float level. Adjust the float level by removing the float and bending its lever arm. Never raise the float level by forcing the float against the needle/seat to bend it – this will damage the needle."
Acct suspended by request 19 April 2011
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: La Porte In
How many miles not that it matters. Could be the timing chain. I replaced mine on my L82 at 52900 miles. The chain was slapping the side cover. My car has the dual roller very sharp teeth that wear sooner than the single roller. Twice as fast in fact.
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Advanced
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: tavares florida
just a suggestion, spray ether into the carb, (starting fluid) if she cranks its not spark or anything else its fuel supply, if she doesnt crank than it could be spark, could be timing chain, could be alot of things
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
But first, maybe you should make sure it's not ignition related, before tearing apart your carb
Always remember : most carb problems are ignition problems
