I'm putting my rear hub assemblies back together and according to the dial indicator the end play on one is less than half a thou. I'm guessing that if I drove on this, once everything heated up it would be too tight and something bad would happen. The axle still turns over easily and smoothly so it's not as though it feels tight. That's what's throwing me off. The other side is around 8-9 thou so I guess I'll have to pull them both apart and measure the spacers and swap them around.

 

I would leave that half thousands one alone and tightening up on the other.

 

I'll definitely be getting the 9 thou one down to something more reasonable, but I'm not convinced the half thou one is safe to leave as is either.

 

I agree, you will usually see a increase of 0.001-0.002 clearance after 1500-3000 miles of driving.

 

Fair enough then. I'll get to work sorting the 9 thou one.

 

If you're measuring things with the bearings full of grease and the seals in place it's almost impossible to get an accurate reading, other than knowing that something is way too loose or seized hard.

If you're using the set up tool then I'd take advantage of the opportunity to fix both sides properly.

 

I do have the grease and seals in, and I could rock the stub axle back and forth. It was easy to see and feel the movement even before the inside flange was bolted on. The splined end was moving side to side by half a mm at least, which is to be expected with the conical shape of the bearings.

I have the hub in the bench vice with the dial indicator stuck on there (magnetic). Applying pressure moves the hub in and out. I have the gauge set up correctly so that spinning the hub doesn't change the readings, although I make sure I don't spin the hub while I'm applying the pressure.

There is only one local shop that deals in corvettes, and he's a C4 guy. Plus he's over in the US for the next month anyway. So there isn't really an option to pay someone to do it. I'm very handy with the tools so I'm not afraid to try things myself. I figured if I can re-ring an engine, I can change some wheel bearings. Having a 20ton press helps too

 

Then you've got a lot more than .5 thou end play.

 

No, the 0.5 thou one doesn't move a bit and turns freely, the 9 thou one is the one that moves around. (also turns freely )

 

Properly setup there will be no lateral play. At 0015-002 loaded with grease and seals it may feel like no play but there is. The spindle must not bind when turning it.
Chances are you will wreck the bearings once pressed on. I never re-use new bearings if I remove them,not worth the chance of a problem.
Many time the faces of the spacers and shims are not flat. Many of the new "kits" have shims too wide in range to dial in under 003". At 003 endplay you can feel the spindle move in/out.
I have to say I don't like either ranges you have now. 0005 is too tight and 009 is just way out of range.
If you have access to a surface grinder, use it to be sure the parts are flat and then dial in the shim to the endplay of 0015-002. Keep in mind too the "feel" on loading the bearings is something to develop.
If you have questions let me know.
Good luck.

 

I just mic'd up the spacer and the shim from the loose axle. I checked them at multiple points and they are both parallel. I might press apart the tight one and measure them up as well. See if swapping them around will sort out some problems them grind them back to get them spot on. Lucky I'm not in a hurry

 

Spindle clearance should be checked before the grease is packed into the bearings, I don't know how an accurate reading of end play can be taken after the bearings are packed with grease. I use 30wt motor oil or WD40 as a lube when checking my spindle bearing clearances, get them set at about 0.001-0.002 and then pack the bearings with grease. The spacer should always be checked for parallelisim or you will never get the end play correct. I use a Bridgport mill with a dial indicator to ceck parallelisim of the spacers and it is surprising how many are not parallel (my friend Dave Herlinger says a good curb shot will bend the spacer.) International Axel Company makes the best quality replacement spacers and also have a nice shim kit for sale but, there are times when their shim kit won't get you into the "ballpark" when setting end clearance and it is always nice to have a surface grinder like Gary (GTR1999) has at your disposal. Here is a link to International Axel: http://internationalaxle.com/products.htm

 

I do rear wheel bearings quite alot at my shop and IF you do not have the correct tools for performing this task, it is a hit or miss situation on getting the CORRECT amount of end play. Which can lead to spending more time and effort than it would to purchase or have someone make you a set-up tools and installation tool. I can't tell you on how many I have to fix from guys who try their hearts to do it themselves and only come to fiind out that it is not as easy as it seems.

One other thing I check in my shop, which is important also is the face of the spindle in relation to the shaft where the bearing are on. I install it in a bench center and get the shaft indexed to being true. then dial indicate the face of the spindle and see if the spindle has ever been "curbed' and thus will casue for the dial indication reading when you are checking your rotor for the brake system to be WAY out and you will end up doing it again. I am happy with .001-.0015" if you get 003+, you will have an issue with the brakes. This is also becasue I ONLY believe in the lip-type seals for the pistons of the calipers and DO NOT USE the O-ring design. SO that is why I check the spindle BEFORE re-installation.

"DUB"

 

i am trying to also set up some trailing arms and was wondering if a video of the process was made and availible form someone to use?.......thanks

 

Im geting mine sent out to someone who knows what there doin. Im 31 years old built 50 plus engines 10 of which are championship circle track winners. And guess what, im not touchin them 50/50 chance of loosing your money on bearings and races,spacers. Nah let someone else be responsible for fouled up bearings.....

 

The video is useless unless you have the PROPER TOOLS for the job. Without the correct tools you will end up with a problem on your hands.

"DUB"

 

I have walked many through this job and they have done a good job but if you get an odd ball problem you'll end up paying more or breaking parts.

I just finished up a set of arms. The final specs for the endplay was 0015 & 0025, dialed in the rotors to 002". During this job I found out late the spacer I dressed was too shallow on the larger OD. During final assembly it came in at 004- 0045 endplay. This is right in the middle of the spec and I'm sure most would have shipped them like that. I broke them down, tossed out the new bearings, found the spacer issue, replaced it and setup another new set of bearings. I ate the cost of the first set of bearings because I wanted to keep the endplay in the 002 range +/- 0005". That's ok with me, I do these as a hobby so they don't leave until right no matter how much time I put into them.Some place will not do that. Some owners will not do that.If you find a problem like that you probably won't have replacement parts on hand or will end up leaving it loose.

Point is not to stop anyone but be aware, like any machine repair, there are sometimes odd problems and situations you're faced with. Also during this job my indicator mount broke, so I had to machine a new mount and get back to working on it. Without access to a machine shop I would have been stuck on a late Saturday afternoon.

Now the OP is located away from access to common vette parts and shops so he's going to have to make due the best he can.

I thought of making videos on the custom work I do but never had time to look too far into it. Maybe some day I will if I get some free time.

Good luck.

 

I have also, but they GOT the tools for the job.

I wasn't trying to stop this forum member from doing it themselves. I was simply stating that there are special tools that are needed to get the job done right. AS I am sure you can AGREE.

That is what UPS is for. You know as well as I do that this is an important part of the cars suspension/driveline. That is why people send them to US for service.

I have also thought of the same thing. But never enough time to get to things I want to do versus what I have to do. Just to busy.... maybe someday.
"DUB"

 

GM,
I hope you did not take my comments directly against anything you stated, I was just making a general statement for the masses. Some guys have really done some nice work in their home garages, given some support and a phone call. I have setup bearings and machined the spacers and shims for guys as well so they can assemble them at home. Nothing like telling other car guys at a show they setup their own T/A's, boxes and diff's.

Yes I agree, you need to have the tools and know how to use them. One of the things that can fool many is using an indicator.As simple as it sounds, if not zeroed correctly or mounted firmly you can get a false reading and throw off the whole deal.

As for the OP in this case, if he can not get them serviced correctly, then buying a new set would be better then rebuilding due to the overseas shipping. I'm not a fan of some of the online "deals" but a correctly assembled set should be able to be sourced from several places.The shipping is probably more then the new arms but that's part of owning a US car overseas, limited parts and experience with 30-40 year old specialty cars.

Ok I'm going to leave this thread as it seems we have moved on.
Good luck

 

Thanks for all the comments. I'm still trying to find somewhere to machine my shim down to 3.12mm I don't think the belt sander will cut it.

I re-measured everything on the weekend and discovered that a trailing arm will deflect one thou if you push it towards the outer end instead of centrally on the hub.

And yes, shipping is prohibitive. Luckily I had my trailing arms, bearings, seals, uni's and a few other bits picked up by a friend and broughs over here in hand luggage.

I recently bought $50 in parts (handbrake kit and TA shim kit) and it was another $50 in shipping. With the exchange rate, it was around $150 all up. My fault for not working out what I needed all in one hit though.