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DeWitts Question - auto or manual

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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Default DeWitts Question - auto or manual

Good morning,
I'm planning to purchase a DeWitts for my '74. Currently I have an automatic transmission but I'm planning to switch to a manual. DeWitt's offers both styles of radiator. I am wondering if I should wait until after making the transmission change to get the radiator because I can get the manual radiator and won't experience any loss of cooling capacity due to the transmision cooler being located inside the radiator. I've got a ZZ4 now but the plan is to either supercharge an engine or go with a huge cube BB down the line.

Thinking as I type, I suppose I could order the manual trans radiator and mount an external trans cooler that I could then remove...

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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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May want to pose the question to DeWitts directly. (may be a slight conflict of intrest) We have plenty of folks here running the radiators with auto and 383, 427 SB. In fact I believe the radiator for the 68 is the same for BB and SB. If that's the case I think the cooling capacity will be plenty, with or without the trans cooling coils.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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I replaced my OEM radiator with a Dewitts a few months ago and asked the same question since I was thinking that even though I have a 4 speed I could go with the automatic radiator for more cooling capacity and was told by Dewitts that they both have the same cooling capacity, no difference. Call and ask directly if you want.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Dantana

Thinking as I type, I suppose I could order the manual trans radiator and mount an external trans cooler that I could then remove...
That is the correct answer. Or even use it later as an oil cooler.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
That is the correct answer. Or even use it later as an oil cooler.
Thought about this most of the day and I agree, this is the best way. Thanks.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 05:30 AM
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Maybe a dumb question, but is the radiator core able to sustain engine oil pressure ?
I don't know what auto tranny pressure is... perhaps higher
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 06:04 AM
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If you do mount an external oil cooler separate from the radiator, I would make sure that the cooler is a double stack cooler like Long and the biggest GVW rating that you can fit in the grill, double stack are much more efficient than tube and fin design. With a mechanical fan you do not have to be concerned with airflow all the time like I do with my 1994 mustang GT (with a 28,000 GVW cooler separate from the radiator) and in my 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix (2 separate 18,000 GVW coolers after the radiator) since in the GP the fans almost never run unless the coolant temperature gets over 210 degrees, which is rare and I drive that car in the winter.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 10:18 AM
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The oil coolers are located inside the end tanks and the amount of fluid one would displace is not going to effect the cooling whatsoever. These coolers are not connected to the cooling system at all, they just sit inside the radiator tank. So the pressure they run at isn't related to the rating of the radiator, in fact, you don't even have to plug them when you are not using them as many people think. Nothing in -nothing out

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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Good info and picture ! Thanks, John !
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeS
May want to pose the question to DeWitts directly. (may be a slight conflict of intrest) We have plenty of folks here running the radiators with auto and 383, 427 SB. In fact I believe the radiator for the 68 is the same for BB and SB. If that's the case I think the cooling capacity will be plenty, with or without the trans cooling coils.
I ordered an alluminum radiator for my 68 and it came in yesterday. I went to open my christmas present when I found the radiator was about half the size of my radiator I currently have. They told me that the one they sent was for a small block 68 and I have a BB radiator.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 06:32 PM
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There can be difference. Mine is currenlty a 4 core monster of a radiator but I get no flow through the core when I look inside and rev the engine. I'm trying some radiator cleaner that I will then flush and see if it helps. I would bet I need at least need some electric fans though... will probably just do the whole thing

Edit: so if anyone wants my existing let me know...

Last edited by Dantana; Jul 30, 2009 at 06:41 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Dantana
There can be difference. Mine is currenlty a 4 core monster of a radiator but I get no flow through the core when I look inside and rev the engine. I'm trying some radiator cleaner that I will then flush and see if it helps. I would bet I need at least need some electric fans though... will probably just do the whole thing

Edit: so if anyone wants my existing let me know...
Maybe you see no flow through the core when you look inside because the thermostat isn't yet opened or just a little bit.
Did you try that with the engine at normal operating temperature ?
The only way to be sure would be to remove the thermostat first. Then if you still don't see any flow when you rev the engine, you have a real problem.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 02:10 AM
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For whatever its worth I told Dewitts I had a Manual trans and they sent me a Auto Trans Cooler Radiator. Its working fine I just left the Cooler caps in that it came with.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 09:31 AM
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I have tested at both full operating temp and then removed the thermostat and tested- no improvement, extremely low flow.

Also, I should note that I have never had any fluid in my overflow resevoir. I changed the cap to a 16lb and made sure the lines are clear and even when I run up to 220F+ the resevoir is dry

Last edited by Dantana; Jul 31, 2009 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dantana
I have tested at both full operating temp and then removed the thermostat and tested- no improvement, extremely low flow.

Also, I should note that I have never had any fluid in my overflow resevoir. I changed the cap to a 16lb and made sure the lines are clear and even when I run up to 220F+ the resevoir is dry
Are you sure the water pump is working, or that there isn't some sort of "air pocket" inside the block ?

How do you fill the block and the radiator ?
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