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Since I just put in a MSD HEI dizzy on my '71, the kill switch I had on the black coil wire is no good now. Just one red wire from the fuse box to the new dizzy. Trying to figure out a good way to redo a kill switch- not sure if splicing into the red wire and running it back and forth to the hidden console switch is a good idea on that high power wire. Do I need to use a relay and where and what kind? Thanks.
I just recently installed a MSD ignition system, Distributor and a MSD
6-AL ignition box and ran a kill switch to and from the power wire (orange) and back to the box. This works well but make sure your switch is at least capable of handling 30 amps..
I just recently installed a MSD ignition system, Distributor and a MSD
6-AL ignition box and ran a kill switch to and from the power wire (orange) and back to the box. This works well but make sure your switch is at least capable of handling 30 amps..
Might need a different switch then. Have to check what's in there now. Wasn't sure if I'd lose power going to the dizzy with an extra 8 feet of wire or cause some kind of hazard in the cabin.
If you're using the 6-AL and mag distributor then MSD already provide instructions to install a kill switch, page 6, bottom of page. Easy and does not require installing an 'interrupt' switch in line with any power source...
If you're using the 6-AL and mag distributor then MSD already provide instructions to install a kill switch, page 6, bottom of page. Easy and does not require installing an 'interrupt' switch in line with any power source...
I just recently installed a MSD ignition system, Distributor and a MSD
6-AL ignition box and ran a kill switch to and from the power wire (orange) and back to the box. This works well but make sure your switch is at least capable of handling 30 amps..
The switch I was using as the kill switch says 16A @ 125VAC and 10A @ 250VAC. It's for household use. I'm no electrical engineeer, but that equals 2000 and 2500 watts. 30A @ 12 V on my car is only 360 watts, plus the fuse that's already wired into the wire I'll be hacking has a 15 A fuse inline. That should be OK, right?
Been around a few real race cars w/ cd boxes ... and some had only hei ... I realize kunkle has an HEI not cd.
racers had two switches ... one toggle interupts lite gage red + power wire to box or hei coil BAT + .... there's another hi-amp rotary that interupts + power to dash.
kunkle probably has OE ignition switch that interupts + power to hei coil BAT + .
seems to me kunkle does not need a "kill switch" ... but if you must, why not open the hei coil cover & tap into -NEG coil wire w/ a ground "kill" switch? ... seems that's essentially what you were doing prior to hei.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by kunkle
The switch I was using as the kill switch says 16A @ 125VAC and 10A @ 250VAC. It's for household use. I'm no electrical engineeer, but that equals 2000 and 2500 watts. 30A @ 12 V on my car is only 360 watts, plus the fuse that's already wired into the wire I'll be hacking has a 15 A fuse inline. That should be OK, right?
Well, your reasoning is a bit off. Remember, you're talking about a switch, not a curling iron. This switch is rated (when closed) for 16Amps at maybe a half-volt voltage drop (8 watts), or 125 volts (open) at obviously O amps (O watts).
Your fine on the open circuit voltage, and I assume, with a 15 amp fuse, your steady state current is well below the max rating of the fuse and switch.
OK ... security ... guess you use a small hidden switch. Open&lift square lid atop hei dist cap ... that's how you get to hei coil & its primary wires.
You could ground coil -NEG as above but I can't suggest grounding an energized coil for more than a few minutes as it will heat up ... or ...
Look underneath hei rotor ... you find 2 very short & very lite gage wires connecting pickup/reluctor to module ... on OE GM hei they're usually green & white & they carry very low volt & amp ... you can interrupt either of those with a switch ... when it's "open" the motor won't run ... fyi the hei pickup creates a small "trigger" signal which is both amplified by the hei module and switched "on-off" by that hei module and then routed to primary side of hei coil, then amplified much more. There are several ways to accomplish what you're after ... above are only suggestions.
OK ... security ... guess you use a small hidden switch. Open&lift square lid atop hei dist cap ... that's how you get to hei coil & its primary wires.
You could ground coil -NEG as above but I can't suggest grounding an energized coil for more than a few minutes as it will heat up ... or ...
Look underneath hei rotor ... you find 2 very short & very lite gage wires connecting pickup/reluctor to module ... on OE GM hei they're usually green & white & they carry very low volt & amp ... you can interrupt either of those with a switch ... when it's "open" the motor won't run ... fyi the hei pickup creates a small "trigger" signal which is both amplified by the hei module and switched "on-off" by that hei module and then routed to primary side of hei coil, then amplified much more. There are several ways to accomplish what you're after ... above are only suggestions.
Thanks. That's basically what I'm after- to put a switch on the low power ground.