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I'm using the VPB poly adjustable strut rods and also have VPB Rack Attack R&P with adjustable tie rods as well. Love the set-up!!
So I'm down making a camber adjustment on my rear wheels when I come across the loose nut on the drivers outer strut rod locking nut. Ive tightened these babies down pretty hard before and was surprised to see this one loose.
I beleive there is what looks like a copper antisieze type compound on the threads as new from what I saw. Maybe Im hallucinating.
Is it a common practice to put some type of maybe blue locktite on these nut to help keep them locked down? Hate to have the front steering come loose. So far it has only been the rear struts.
Don't be afraid of them. They are big threads and tough to strip them out. I have not had one comes loose but I really tighten them hard because I have heard of others with the same problem you are talking about.
I'm using the VPB poly adjustable strut rods and also have VPB Rack Attack R&P with adjustable tie rods as well. Love the set-up!!
So I'm down making a camber adjustment on my rear wheels when I come across the loose nut on the drivers outer strut rod locking nut. Ive tightened these babies down pretty hard before and was surprised to see this one loose.
I beleive there is what looks like a copper antisieze type compound on the threads as new from what I saw. Maybe Im hallucinating.
Is it a common practice to put some type of maybe blue locktite on these nut to help keep them locked down? Hate to have the front steering come loose. So far it has only been the rear struts.
The bushing are poly, but the bolts that are holding them are not a problem. In this case it wouldnt matter if it was a heim joint, rubber or poly bushing. Its the threaded rod lock down nuts for the adjustment
I recranked them real tight again after the camber adjustment, so we'll see. It sounds like use of a loctite isnt popular or recommended for this location.
The bushing are poly, but the bolts that are holding them are not a problem. In this case it wouldnt matter if it was a heim joint, rubber or poly bushing. Its the threaded rod lock down nuts for the adjustment
Not really. You see, the T/A's go up and down in an arc. Poly is not very compliant. Either the poly "gives", or the locknut does.
Rubber or hims allow for this arc motion. Capiche?
I got a wrench on em, after a COUPLE of times seeing it loose, on the driver side, and let me tell you, I'm not some little fella, I put a LOT of preasure on them the last time, and it still came loose.
I put some locktite on it, and no problems so far, and I've been daily driving it on CTs craptastic roads for a couple months now.
Not really. You see, the T/A's go up and down in an arc. Poly is not very compliant. Either the poly "gives", or the locknut does.
Rubber or hims allow for this arc motion. Capiche?
Your thinking of the bolt-nut that go through the bushing. Im talking about the locknuts the hold the adjusting sleeve in position. They are not in contact with the bushing-rod end at all, so the bushing could be made of kryptonite and it wouldn't make a diff.
I got a wrench on em, after a COUPLE of times seeing it loose, on the driver side, and let me tell you, I'm not some little fella, I put a LOT of preasure on them the last time, and it still came loose.
I put some locktite on it, and no problems so far, and I've been daily driving it on CTs craptastic roads for a couple months now.
Not really. You see, the T/A's go up and down in an arc. Poly is not very compliant. Either the poly "gives", or the locknut does.
Rubber or hims allow for this arc motion. Capiche?
This arc movement causes twisting and given that the poly does not give it twists the end and loosens the jamb nut. This is why the jam nut never loosens on your tie rods. Either put rubber or heim joints here. I have heim joints and my jam nuts never come loose.
Poly for the t/a and strut rod end bushings is not a good thing.
Not really. You see, the T/A's go up and down in an arc. Poly is not very compliant. Either the poly "gives", or the locknut does.
Rubber or hims allow for this arc motion. Capiche?
Before i spend money on more parts, i would double lock nut the thing.it wouldnt move after that!! he would have a total of 8 nuts holding tight..
This arc movement causes twisting and given that the poly does not give it twists the end and loosens the jamb nut. This is why the jam nut never loosens on your tie rods. Either put rubber or heim joints here. I have heim joints and my jam nuts never come loose.
Poly for the t/a and strut rod end bushings is not a good thing.
why is poly no good for t/a and strut rod bushings?? curious...
Poly is good for bushings but as pointed out, when the struts move up and down they also move in an arc as the t-arm moves. The t-arm rotates around the front bolt.
With the stock ones being welded this would never happen. You could double nut them as mentioned but make sure you get both left and right hand threaded lock nuts, try to tighten very tight.
I use rod ends on mine so it's not a problem becuae the rods ends rotate in two planes. Guess you could put a rod end at one end of the link and save the bushing as a spare.
Your thinking of the bolt-nut that go through the bushing. Im talking about the locknuts the hold the adjusting sleeve in position. They are not in contact with the bushing-rod end at all, so the bushing could be made of kryptonite and it wouldn't make a diff.
See pic:
If your bushings were made of Kryptonite, the rod end would shear/snap off on the first jounce.
Take the spring off one side(8" bolts), and swing the T/A up and down. It will bind with poly.