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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 11:38 PM
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Ok,im not ignorant to chevys but the corvette is a different animal. ? is when new rotors are purchased for the front does the hubs come with them or do i have to seperate? if so what is the best way to seperate the hub from rotor?
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 11:46 PM
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If you're talking about stock, the rotors are separate. When you take the wheel and caliper off, the rotor will come off easily...unless they've never been changed. They were riveted to the hub at the factory. It's a very simple matter to drill out the rivets so you can get the rotor off.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 11:58 PM
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They must have never been changed as the rivits are still there.Thisis a first for me never knew chev rivited them on..tryed the air chisel momentarly from the back side of the rotor,like you remove factory ball joints. they seemed a bit harder rivit than those used on ball joints..
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by forvicjr
They must have never been changed as the rivits are still there.Thisis a first for me never knew chev rivited them on..tryed the air chisel momentarly from the back side of the rotor,like you remove factory ball joints. they seemed a bit harder rivit than those used on ball joints..
The rivets are pretty soft metal. Find a drill bit that's pretty wide (maybe a little smaller than the size of the rivet head) and drill out the head of the rivet. When you get to where the bit is starting to touch the rotor itself, you're done. The rivet head should fall off. Do all of them this way, then you can pop the rotor off. You don't need to replace the rivets. The lug nuts will hold the wheel on just fine.

There's probably a thread with more specific information about drilling out the rivets (sizes, etc.). Do a search for rivets...
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 12:49 AM
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Drill the rivets thru the center and then use a punch to knock them out.

You can re-attach the new rotors to the hubs with new rivets or by threading the rivet holes and using screws to re-attach them if you want. This step is not absolutely necessary but doing that probably does make dialing in the new rotors more accurate. Some of the aftermarket replacement rotors are not drilled with "rivet holes" like the originals so if you have those, you can't.

Do a forum search, there is a lot of good information here on how to check the lateral run -out of the new rotors and shim them if necessary to bring them into proper tolerances.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by stock76
Drill the rivets thru the center and then use a punch to knock them out.

You can re-attach the new rotors to the hubs with new rivets or by threading the rivet holes and using screws to re-attach them if you want. This step is not absolutely necessary but doing that probably does make dialing in the new rotors more accurate. Some of the aftermarket replacement rotors are not drilled with "rivet holes" like the originals so if you have those, you can't.

Do a forum search, there is a lot of good information here on how to check the lateral run -out of the new rotors and shim them if necessary to bring them into proper tolerances.
Lteral runout - shims ? I was planning on some drilled and slotted rotors, do a repack of bearings and be done. theres more to it???
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by forvicjr
Lteral runout - shims ? I was planning on some drilled and slotted rotors, do a repack of bearings and be done. theres more to it???
Well, as I understand it, the factory riveted the rotors on the hubs and spun the rotors on the vehicle to get exact runout. If you remove the factory rotors, new ones won't be installed exactly the same.

What folks are worried about now is that, if your rotor wobbles due to excessive runout, your calipers will suck in air because they are in contact with the rotors. This might make the brakes spongy.

If you have aftermarket rotors, just make sure you check to make sure the runout is within spec when you mount them. (Most of them are fine. I've never really seen this problem.) If they are out of spec (which I'm not sure what spec is), you need to put shims under the rotor to align it properly.
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by forvicjr
Lteral runout - shims ? I was planning on some drilled and slotted rotors, do a repack of bearings and be done. theres more to it???
There must be more than a 1000 posts on this forum on this very subject. Read up before you touch anything. On the subject of drilled and slotted, don't expect miracles.
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