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How accurate are they. and how much should one spend on it for a decent one.
thanks
based on work experience not in the automotive field, i have used IR guns in the $100-$200 range. this should work fine for autos. you might find cheaper that i don't have experience with though. for the $100-$200 range, the emissivity will be fixed, so technically you would need to calibrate using a cheap trick and another calibrated contact temp sensor in order to get the most accurate reading (not really needed for autos i think).
it takes much more $, like 700-800 to get a good IR with adjustible emissivity and a narrower focus. worth it in some industry apps, but again not necessary for autos, i think.
that's my 2 cents, hopefully others will offer owner testimonies . . .
I've got a cbb that keeps reading hot on the guage but tried one IR gun and it was no where near hot. I've changed the sending unit and it still climbs up there on the gauge so I want the gun to ease my soul until I get it figured out.
see if you can borrow the IR meter again. with the "cheaper" meters, you may need to be no more than 4-6 inches away from the surface (have to read instructions to determine the size of the "cone"). you should be able to get a reading from the exhaust manifold, the cool and hot parts of the intake manifold, etc. exhaust should not be over 500-600F if just hot idling, intake should read close to thermostat setting at the thermostat and front cooling runners-will be a little hotter in the rear. exhaust crossover will be much notter. you will not be able to get a reading off the temp sensor if in the side of the head, it is too small.
these are numbers off the top of my mind; someone who has recent readings can post better numbers.
if the borrowed IR meter does not give readings in this neighborhood or relative readings, i would try another IR meter first.
thanks
These guns are pretty accurate. Keep in mind that they don't work so well on shiny, highly curved, or clear surfaces (like glass).
I check my coolant temp with the gun by placing some blue painters tape on the thermostat housing since mine is chrome.
Use the laser beam to locate the aim accurately. There is also a ratio of distance to spread that is important to keep in mind. I think mine is 2:8 which means that from 8" away it measure a diameter of 2". A 2" diameter may be too big for the area you are measuring so you would need to move in closer. There is a scale on the gun to remind me.
I would not rely on one of these for an accurate reading. They are an indicator at best. To many variables with surface condition requirements. If the unit is calibrated for excatly what you are doing and reading off of OK, otherwise your info may be skewed.
I use an actual thermocouple with a digital meter. The probe is installed directly into the coolant as close to the t/sat housing as I can get. A bit **** but it's my process engineering background coming back to haunt me.
I also have a fluke surface probe attachment that i have found to be pretty close to the readings obtained with the thermocouple. If plugs into a DVM and give a reding in millivolts. 1 mv = 1 degree. It can be held on the t/sat. radiator tank or wherever one wants
Wow I was just using one I got from work. I was reading about 150 higher on a spot of burnt plastic on the heder the headers are coted. I guess that proves the reflective surface difference.
Wow I was just using one I got from work. I was reading about 150 higher on a spot of burnt plastic on the heder the headers are coted. I guess that proves the reflective surface difference.
emissivity is the property of interest; i think most of the IR meters under 4-500 dollars are preset to about e=0.95 which works on many things. you can go online and find e (epsilon) values for different surfaces to give an idea of other surfaces. don't be shocked if you discover that the type of paint matters more than the color when reading a temp using IR!
cheers