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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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Default Darn Headman Elites

Well I finally got around to installing my engine today (only about 3 1/2months late) and wouldn't you know it.....the darn things hit on both the idler arm, and the power steering ram. The Idler arm is a fairly straight forward fix, either dimple the tube, or find a smaller idler arm. Anyone out there have a part number of the smaller idler arm?
The power steering one is troubling me. It's going to take a serious punch to the tube to get it to work as is, and my thought is to work on both parts....dimple the tube slightly, and cut/grind the corner off the power steering ram. What do you guys think?

Looking at the photos, I'll need to cut/grind the power steering until the start of the white line....will I run into powersteering fluid by grinding that much?? [IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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What condition are your motor mounts in? I have the elites on my 383 and have no contact like you have. I also have poly motor mounts which maybe the diffrence.
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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brand new poly....even if they were factory mounts the engine would be in the same place only slightly higher I think....very frustrating
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 09:02 PM
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Thats darned odd. While the idler arm interferance is fairly common with the hedmans (as it was on my car) - the Hedmans on my 78 dont even come close to the Power steering ram. My headers are almost a decade old however and theres no telling if changes have been made in the mfr process since then.
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 12:16 AM
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Nothing but solid metal in that corner of the assist cylinder that you have marked in white. You shouldn't have a problem making clearance to the header pipe.

Jim
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Shea
Nothing but solid metal in that corner of the assist cylinder that you have marked in white. You shouldn't have a problem making clearance to the header pipe.

Jim
Thats what I wanted to hear....Thanks Jim
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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If you rotate the ram to the flat will it clear ?
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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Hedman tells you in footnotes it will not clear the steering ram inside the frame. You'd think they would fix them!
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Sho'nuff
Hedman tells you in footnotes it will not clear the steering ram inside the frame. You'd think they would fix them!
Ya no kidding. I didn't see that in the notes.....maybe I'll go look again.

I was able to cut the edge if the ram off, and that made enough clearance.....About 1/4".... I think thats good enough. I"ll update with photos when it's all done
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sstocker31
Ya no kidding. I didn't see that in the notes.....maybe I'll go look again.

I was able to cut the edge if the ram off, and that made enough clearance.....About 1/4".... I think thats good enough. I"ll update with photos when it's all done
I had the same problem with my Hedman headers / I had to dent the tubes on both sides. I ended up switching to a set od flowtech headers three years down the road. They fit great / no problems at all.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:28 AM
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I'm still looking around for a smaller sized idler arm. Went and looked at three today at the local parts peddlers......they all were worse (bigger) than the one I have on now. This is total for a major hedder manufacturer. Anyone out there have a part number of a smaller Idler arm unit??
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 06:20 AM
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No help to you now, but on another thread recently, I had a discussion with someone about why I never put long tube headers on my street driven vette, after years of using full length headers on other cars besides the 78-fitment issues, connection issues to stock type pipes, heat, road clearance issues, ignition wire and plug access, maximum benefit at high mid to high RPM (not much time hear on street driven engines) etc. Probably too late but you may want to consider block hugger headers or a shorty header like McJacks (exact duplicate dimensionally as the Ramhorns with zero issues but expensive). I use McJacks shorty headers on my 78 and BBK shorty's on my 1994 Mustang GT. I just don't feel that long tube headers are worth the extra power over the other types on the street with all the issues that come with them, IMHO, unless your engine makes BIG horsepower.

Last edited by jb78L-82; Aug 18, 2009 at 07:19 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Seems strange to me the way your cylinder is indexed because mine has the flat part of the cylinder actually going by the header and not the corner.. It looks like it would actually clear if the cylinder was indexed differently and I believe the indexing is related to how the other end is connected to the steering linkage.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Well I sorted out my issues with this mess, and look to you guys for approval or a darn good flaming (if needed).

The power steering side I sorted out by slicing a corner off the ram unit. I was being held that way by the P/S lines....I tried to fix but after being that way for so long it just wanted to rest that way. Here is a pic:



The Idler arm side was much more frustrating. I looked high and low for a smaller pivot idler arm with no luck. I was able to move the grease nipple easily, and dimple the header tube slightly. The problem was it was still too close to the header to set my mind at ease. I chose to do it the Bubba way.... use a body shim on the top mount to angle the arm slightly away from the header....Flame here if required
Here is another pic:


I hope this helps someone else along the way
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Keep an eye on the upper idler arm bolt- make sure it stays tight. That makes 2 extra places that dirt/paint/junk can work out of and cause the bolt to get loose. I'm not sure I wouldn't look for a bolt that's just a bit longer too. Just me, but I like seeing a couple of threads out past the nut.
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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On my Hedman Elites I didn't have an issue with the steering. I did have the same problem with the idler arm. I just bent it in my press to be at the same angle as you did by adding the shim. That will work just fine for you. I would really like to know if the hedman's will hit if I go to the Borgeson steering box upgrade.


-Justin
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
Keep an eye on the upper idler arm bolt- make sure it stays tight. That makes 2 extra places that dirt/paint/junk can work out of and cause the bolt to get loose. I'm not sure I wouldn't look for a bolt that's just a bit longer too. Just me, but I like seeing a couple of threads out past the nut.
Yes I am going to get a longer bolt so I have a few threads of safety...and will monitor how tight it is

Thanks for the comments
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Dalannex
On my Hedman Elites I didn't have an issue with the steering. I
did have the same problem with the idler arm. I just bent it in my press to be at the same angle as you did by adding the shim.
That will work just fine for you. I would really like to know if the hedman's will hit if I go to the Borgeson steering box upgrade.


-Justin
I'm glad to hear someone else came up with the same solution. My concern is the arc that the idler arm swings in has changed now, and hopfully won't be a problem.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 01:28 AM
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So in other words, stay away from heaman headers, they dont fit. I have a set hangin on the wall that came with the car. Swap meet here they come lolol.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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For the sake of variety I posted a picture of a header that will be going on my '73, in the forum C3 picture gallery under engines and also parts, search for 'C3 SB Stan's headers', it is awaiting approval as I write this but i'm sure it will be there by the time anyone looks.
I'll post some comparable clearance photos when I get 'em hung. These tri-Y headers are not for all-out racing but are supposed to make really good midrange torque, which is what I'm after. They are rather heavy, but I think that is a good thing, too, from the longetivity standpoint.

Last edited by WTFizzit; Sep 15, 2009 at 12:06 PM. Reason: Add image
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